The Beautiful Puzzle: 1987 3.3L 930 EFI Build

[CaptainCalf]

Originally Posted by proffighter

I don't think it's a good idea to work on ball races, because they are hardened (in your case probably no longer).

They will have too much play which can cause failure and wear immediately..

Look here:

CV Joints, Part 1

Roland, I know it seems counter intuitive but it's my understanding that endurance racers detail all their cv joints in order to make them last longer. The new joints are too tight and the race surfaces are too rough from the factory which causes more friction and heat then they should and since they are so tight the ball brgs tend to stay in one position which wears groves in the races prematurely.

I only skimmed the surface using a light grit so most of the 1 to 1.2 mm hardened surface is still there. In order to control the amount I took off I didn't even fire up my air compressor, but instead used a cordless drill for the detail work. There wasn't much if any heat generated during the detailing either so any heat treating should also still be intact.

I'll be doing the same thing to the 3 new cv joints once they arrive

[CaptainCalf]

amazingly the new cv joints, which most folks prolly never tear down proir to install, were not only roughly machined but also very dirty...if you just packed these with grease and installed them you'd be asking for trouble...

inner race before detailing


inner race after detailing


finished axle has lots of flexibility after detailing w/o being sloppy

[350HP930]

I can't even begin to express how I admire your attention to detail Rick. So glad if I had to to give the 930 a new home it was yours.

[CaptainCalf]

Originally Posted by 350HP930

I can't even begin to express how I admire your attention to detail Rick. So glad if I had to to give the 930 a new home it was yours.

Thanks for passing the torch to me Tony. This has been a great project and I really appreciate you entrusting me to bring your baby back to life

[JeremyD]

I think it's a sickness...

[CaptainCalf]

Originally Posted by JeremyD

I think it's a sickness...

LOL, this coming from a guy who makes his own carbon fiber parts...yes I have it bad but I'm in good company

[CaptainCalf]

Today I got most of the EFI parts needed to finish off the motor




inj#s 1-2-3 in


coil packs positioned & ready to mount

[CaptainCalf]

For whattever reason it seems that the standard metric size for a Bosch temperature sensor these days is M12x1.5, but of course our cases are tapped for M14x1.5 sensors.

New Bosch Sensor# 0280130026 M12x1.5


Old Bosch Sensor# 0280130037 spec'ed for an Audi A8 Quattro M14x1.5



I'm waiting for the spec sheet to come in from Germany for the M14 sensor to make sure it's a close match on resistance & temperature to the new one. If it is then it's a great solution for anybody who needs new oil temperature sensors for their EFI ECUs

[PFM]

Captain,

Please post the spec when you get it, if it is close to my Haltech I will know why I have not purchased it just yet.

[sjf911]

That would be great to have an M14 2-wire coolant sensor. Doesn't your ECU allow you to set your sensor temperature calibration curve?

[CaptainCalf]

Originally Posted by sjf911

That would be great to have an M14 2-wire coolant sensor. Doesn't your ECU allow you to set your sensor temperature calibration curve?

Yep, all sensors can be individually calibrated, but I'm trying to use a preset so I can save that step

[CaptainCalf]

Originally Posted by PFM

Captain,

Please post the spec when you get it, if it is close to my Haltech I will know why I have not purchased it just yet.

Will do!

[CaptainCalf]

Here's another one that will fits: bosch 0280130089


Requirements: M14x1.5 threads, NTC type liquid sensor and must be rated at approx. 2.5 kOhms at 20 deg C.

I don't have the spec sheets in for them yet, but both of these sensors seem to fit the bill

[sjf911]

So, is there a consensus among the EFI crowd about where the coolant sensor is best located on these engines? I have been using a Carrera head temp sensor but have not been all that happy with its performance under all circumstances.

[CaptainCalf]

I've seen them installed in the breather, but you'll get better readings in the oil stream, so I'd reccomend rt front where oem sensor was in rt cam oil stream

[CaptainCalf]

I received the specs today and this sensor will work perfectly with an EFI ECU!

PM me if you want the pdf files that include temp curve and drawings, but the main specs are:

-10 deg C min resistance = 8325 and max = 10572
+20 deg C min resistance = 2280 and max = 2736
+80 deg C min resistance = 287.7 and max = 359.1

Hope this info helps

[CaptainCalf]

Getting the harness & sensor mounting positions figured out slowly but surely

[CaptainCalf]

Anybody using this PLX DM-6 Multi-gauge or have one they can recommend? Looking for somewhere to display AFRs, oil tremp & pressure.
Thanks

[Spenny_b]

Hi, I'm using Zeitronix...wanted something that could be completely discrete when needed, so did some tinkering with the ashtray (does anyone actually use them?!), per the pics below (snapped whilst I was fiddling with new stereo install, hence loose wires).







Basically, removed the tray section from the front trim, then made a bracket to mount in its place, then fixed the Zeitronix to it. The trim rotates using some rotating "spigots" that I turned up on a lathe from some Nylatron I had kicking about...when rotated to hidden position, it'll be kept upwards using a magnetic fixing...not got around to making that yet.

Zeitronix also make a dash mounted gauge like the one you posted above ^^; IIRC you can run the full display like mine and the dash mounted one at the same time.

[CaptainCalf]

Spenny, nice use of the ash tray!