The Beautiful Puzzle: 1987 3.3L 930 EFI Build

[CaptainCalf]

Originally Posted by 911 tweaks

totally agree on dropping the hammer on anyone WHEN EVER YOU WANT... can't wait for a video utube clip you post...

Great job...almost there...

Bob

Thanks Bob

With any luck I'll get the EFI parts in this month to finish this monster up and then I'll post up a video of the initial rumble

[CaptainCalf]

With the stainless steeel adapter and a couple of quick mods the passenger floor board is in. I also, got one of those snazzy jack plates too, but it's almost too nice to use all done up in glossy ed powdercoating.

[PFM]

Yep sounds like smiles per mile is the goal. FYI I have been in a Bugatti Veyron and I think you might have your hands full on the street. Been on track in a nice 911 Turbo awesome ride but did not quite go like all wheel drive and 1000 HP. On track I will go with the 911, less weight.

[CaptainCalf]

It's time to deal with the old overloaded fuel pump circuits.

I see two options (cuz my sight isn't what it used to be when I was a young buck):

1- Use the oem relays and just rewiring them both at the box with two leads directly off the battery along with 2 new blade fuses while using the existing pump wiring cuz the voltage at the pumps with the relays jumped is good and I have the burnt finger tips to prove it

2- The other option, which may be overkill, is to go all out with 2 new Bosch 40A relays and redoing the whole circuit running 12ga wire to both pumps. I like this option cuz I don't have anything else to do with my time

Please let me know whattcha think?

[JFairman]

I did option one on mine and it works well. The origonal relays work OK and the secondary wires from them to the pumps is thick enough.

It's a good upgrade project

[350HP930]

I like the idea of creating a new circuit if you don't want to have to tap into the existing ones.

You may want to find out if your EFI system has a pump trigger signal or if they will just be always on.

[CaptainCalf]

Originally Posted by 350HP930

I like the idea of creating a new circuit if you don't want to have to tap into the existing ones.

You may want to find out if your EFI system has a pump trigger signal or if they will just be always on.

Yes, the DTA S80 Pro ECU has a pump relay/signal that I will run up to the box in order to trip the pump relay switches only when needed

[CaptainCalf]

the new pump came in so I should be able to get the fuel system bits sorted this weekend

[CaptainCalf]

Today after a 40 mile bike ride I got the fuel pumps in and working and upgraded the relay wiring using the "ShadeTree" method.

relay sockets #1 & #2 out:


Previous fix using 30amp fuse to run both pumps removed:


2 new 12ga leads to run directly from battery to power each relay separately:


signal wire, ground & power wire unraveled between two relays:


new power wires on battery:


two new blade fuses added for each relay:

[CaptainCalf]

2 new RS door panels came in yesterday from our host and I got around to installing one of them today, but the other one will have to wait cuz I had to get my nails done today

[CaptainCalf]

Originally Posted by JFairman

I did option one on mine and it works well. The origonal relays work OK and the secondary wires from them to the pumps is thick enough.

It's a good upgrade project

Jim, I get the impression that you've wired around a couple of the oem fuel pump relays from hell like the one under the driver seat, so please tell me if my thinking is correct on wiring up the pumps signal from my new ECU.

Since there are brown & blue wires jumping between the two pump relays# 1 & 2 at the fuse box for the signal & ground pins 85 & 86 I'm considering splicing the new signal wire in there at the blue wire to signal both pumps from the new ECU and ground both relays there at the fuse box by grounding the brown wire.

If my thinking is right all the trouble from the relays from hell come in via the brown ground wire, so since I'm not using any of those relays grounding that brown wire should rid those oem circuits from hell. Shouldn't I also go ahead and ground both pumps where they are too as a final step to rid the system of the relays from hell?

Thanks for your help

[CaptainCalf]

I have 2 bars left. Which one is for a 930 and what is the other one off of??? Looks like the shorter one will fit and they're both 20mm. Any ideas?

[MBruns]

The shorter one is for the rear of your 930, I don't recognize the other one.

Mike Bruns

[CaptainCalf]

Originally Posted by MBruns

The shorter one is for the rear of your 930, I don't recognize the other one.

Mike Bruns

Thanks Big Mike

[350HP930]

Hmm, there is a possibility you might have accidentally ended up with one of my old volvo bars if you end up with a mystery one on your hands, lol

[CaptainCalf]

Originally Posted by 350HP930

Hmm, there is a possibility you might have accidentally ended up with one of my old volvo bars if you end up with a mystery one on your hands, lol

That's gotta be it cuz it wont fit a 930...you can stop by for it when you come over to see my progress and bring that alarm key

[350HP930]

It has no value to me so you can just add it to the scrap pile, but still planning on bringing the key over once you get closer to the point of firing her up, lol.

[CaptainCalf]

Originally Posted by 350HP930

It has no value to me so you can just add it to the scrap pile, but still planning on bringing the key over once you get closer to the point of firing her up, lol.

Wont be long now! Just waiting for a few more bits to bolt on to the motor

[CaptainCalf]

Since I no longer need a fuel accumulator the fuel filter now needed a new fitting. My soln was to use M14x1.5 banjo with -6an male and I will make up a stainless steel line to the rear fuel pump.


The fuel return line is all new 8mm ID rubber bypassing the two unneeded connections going on back to the return line to the tunnel then the tank.



New Magnacore wires waithing for new coil pack

[911 tweaks]

looks good...I would consider banding or clamping the fuel lines at the connection points...!!