Dreading doing the window motors....

[86 911 Targa]

I agree with Jeff Burger-Both motors-I don't think so.

pm sent.

Gerry

[RDM]

I learned sitting in my driveway with a manual, knowing that I couldn't be in a hurry because I couldn't afford to fix any mistakes. You've got a whole board of mentors here, you've seen a need. Take a chance- we'll get you through.

[Jd21476]

I pulled the door panel off and found some interesting things.

1. The door is covered in dynamat. (I noticed the floors of the car were dynamat'd as well so someone at some point was obsessed with dynamat)

2. I have been trying to figure out why my power mirrors dont work and I am missing the left and right switch over switch on the dash. Well, I think at some point some one changed the mirror out to manual mirrors and just left the door controller for looks because there are no wires running to it.

3. It looks like the car has power door locks. Im not sure if this is factory but it looks aftermarket. I cant seem to lock the drivers door so I dont know if the cylinder is frozen or not. I am going to disconnect the arm from the power lock mechanism and see if it works cause maybe the mechanism is frozen.

[Jd21476]

I opened up the door and took a hammer and tapped the motor while pressing the down switch and the window started to roll down

[kltarga72]

If you can loosen the nuts and bolts that hold the motor in place, clean with contact cleaner and then tighten. Some motors use frame ground and if this applies to your car you may solve the problem your having.
Current has to pass through the motor and back to the battery in order for the motor to turn.
You are on the right track.

Also both motors (driver and Passenger) may use the same ground, not sure what year pcar you have.
Also check out this old thread.....

Power Window Switch schematic

Big hammers help solve a lot of problems

Lash

[darrin]

Originally Posted by Jd21476

I opened up the door and took a hammer and tapped the motor while pressing the down switch and the window started to roll down

Good News!

[Jd21476]

So I pulled the motor out anyway. It was working but it was working real slow. I took the motor apart and bench teated it and it seems to spin fine. I am going to remove the track and then clean and grease everything

[Jd21476]

The window is real slow and wont go up without help. I think the motor is just shot.

I was looking online and new OEM motors are about $400 but I found Dansk motors for $140. Has anyone ever used these? Are they good

[Jeff Burger]

I dont know about Dansk but you can probably find some good oem used ones from a member here. Post the year coupe or targa or even better the motor part numbers. just make sure you do your homework on the seller.

[Jd21476]

Originally Posted by Jeff Burger

I dont know about Dansk but you can probably find some good oem used ones from a member here. Post the year coupe or targa or even better the motor part numbers. just make sure you do your homework on the seller.

I know someone selling some that are probably good but Im thinking it may be better just to have mine rebuilt. My fear is that the other motors will be just as bad as mine

[Robey5]

You pulled the motor (electrical portion) ... but the reason that these window systems slow is because of what is going on inside the worm-wheel area as well as the actual mechanism itself.

On mine, I had a ton of sticky grease all over the place that was working as a bit of a resistance. Pull the reg, you’ve come this far. Clean it (think green scrubby pad on the pall-gear and WD) and then hit the pivot points with a graphite type of lube. The windows aren’t ever going to go up and down like anything modern, but getting them to work *correctly* is nice. Also, in the rear track (at least in mine — both sides) there was a bunch of dirt and again sticky grease: I hit that area with a toothbrush and then things worked much better.

Also: ...on the top of that shaft is a “tip support” for the armature. Do NOT lose that when putting this back together. Your motor will be a real mess to make work and you will be back to “square 1”

[Reiver]

Originally Posted by Jd21476

The window is real slow and wont go up without help. I think the motor is just shot.

I was looking online and new OEM motors are about $400 but I found Dansk motors for $140. Has anyone ever used these? Are they good

When the helper spring is no longer connected to the window frame arms the window is extremely slow and often needs help.

Feel around in the bottom of the door for some metal bits that look like a 1/2 in round post with a notch cut.

These often break and then you get that result.

Then you must remove the whole deal and replace them...motor and arms/mechanism etc.

I did not purchase replacement parts but made my own from a bolt/small steel sleeve.

My very slow window now works perfectly.....this is more than likely your issue.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/664473-slow-window-fix.html

[Jd21476]

I did pull the entire regulator mechanism out of the drivers door. Cleaned it, greased it and it didnt look like anything was missing. When I bench tested the motor it would run quick for a second and the slow down. The regulator looked good but it did have some old earwax looking grease. I cleaned the rear window channel as well.

[Jd21476]

Originally Posted by Reiver

When the helper spring is no longer connected to the window frame arms the window is extremely slow and often needs help.

Feel around in the bottom of the door for some metal bits that look like a 1/2 in round post with a notch cut.

These often break and then you get that result.

Then you must remove the whole deal and replace them...motor and arms/mechanism etc.

I did not purchase replacement parts but made my own from a bolt/small steel sleeve.

My very slow window now works perfectly.....this is more than likely your issue.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/664473-slow-window-fix.html

Now I cant remember if I was missing that piece or not. The spring was wound but I seem to remember it resting against one of the mounting legs

[Reiver]

Originally Posted by Jd21476

Now I cant remember if I was missing that piece or not. The spring was wound but I seem to remember it resting against one of the mounting legs

Yes it will partially unwind and rest on the mounting pillar as in the picture...it actually looks correct unless you know what to look for.

All of your 'symptoms' are indicative of having that slotted pin missing...it was a press fit and they often pop off.

I used a bolt ( octagon head ground down for clearance) with a metal round sleeve and locktighted nut on top...to the proper height.... that booger will not break.

[Jeff Burger]

Originally Posted by Jd21476

I know someone selling some that are probably good but Im thinking it may be better just to have mine rebuilt. My fear is that the other motors will be just as bad as mine

don't buy from them unless they pre test and guarantee your satisfaction with the motor.

[Robey5]

Post some pictures of your mech. I’d be willing to bet that the pin for the clock-spring is either broken, missing or there is something that is supposed to be there that is missing.

Also: how is that worm-wheel area looking in that motor? I’d bet there is a mess of grease that is not exactly doing it’s job (ie: it is of the consistency of 3 day old grits, without butter).

If it makes you feel any better: there was a time that anyone who had any kind of sound system would also pay $$$$$$$$ for the dyno-mat to be installed everywhere. The old stuff kind of reminded me of the material consistency of a fruit-roll-up. Getting THAT out of your way would be a complete mess, and is precisely what I encountered in the corvette when I had to do some work on the interior.

I don’t know if you will get anything better by purchasing a new WR motor, from Dansk or from Porsche; just my $0.02.

[Jd21476]

So I dove in to the windows once again today because I wasnt sure if the pin for the spring was missing. Sure enough, it was so I built a new one in the same way that Reiver did.

I cleaned all the tracks and lubed everything. It was really dirty inside with grease that looked like ear wax. It was old.

While I was in there I decided to rebuild my motors after watching a few Youtube videos.

Now, the drivers side window works flawlessly. The passenger side window works even better but only when I jump it.

Both passenger side switches do not work but the window goes up and down just fine if I jumper the leads. I swapped. Both switches in to the driver side and they both worked fine so its not the switches. Is there something Im missing?

[Jd21476]

Here is a picture of the regulator with the pin for the spring rebuilt. I used loctite and a lock nut to make sure they dont come off again.

You can see in picture #1 where it is missing.

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by Reiver

When the helper spring is no longer connected to the window frame arms the window is extremely slow and often needs help.

If my helper spring broke (loud pop years ago), and it has not affected window performance at all.
Seems like a silly design that doesn't do anything