Fighting with my transmission fill plug…

[REVerend]

Ordered up a jug of Swepco and some new plugs a few weeks ago and figured today was the day to try and change the transmission oil.

Started with a breaker bar underneath the car and after a bit of effort that got me nowhere I decided to pull out the impact wrench. I think the impact wrench is probably a lot better as I have a more or less straight shot in from the wheel well and can keep the hex key lined up.

But this thing just doesn’t want to budge. Alternating with the heat gun, PB blaster and impact wrench. So far the plug doesn’t seem boogered up, it just doesn’t wanna move.

I’m not sure I wanna go so far as a propane torch on it… seems like a bad idea on the aluminum. Fortunately the transmission seems to shift fine, didn’t drain it or anything, but I suspect the oil needs changing as I have no idea when it was done last.

Hex key fits in well, just can’t persuade it to budge:

[76FJ55]

Do you have a large pair of channel locks that you can grab the threaded lip with? If so, I would think the combination of turning with the channel locks and simultaneously hitting it with the impact should be sufficient to get that thing turning.

As for heat, I don't think you will have a problem with overheating the case with the propane torch, but if you're worried and have an IR temp gun, just periodically check the temp. id limit the heating to 300F. then you could also stick an ice cube up against the plug briefly to help contract it in the heated aluminum housing, which may help it break free as well.

Fortunately, since you have replacement plugs already you don't have to worry about scarring up the current ones.

[Funracer]

Breaker bar with extension. Tap with sledge until it loosens

[REVerend]

Originally Posted by 76FJ55

Do you have a large pair of channel locks that you can grab the threaded lip with? If so, I would think the combination of turning with the channel locks and simultaneously hitting it with the impact should be sufficient to get that thing turning.

Yeah… I do but it doesn’t seem like that would add any appreciable amount of force. I have given up on it for the day and am going to hit it with PB Blaster every few days for the next couple weeks before I try it again.

The other idea I have seen is to have a breaker bar against the floor and then slowly lower the lift to let the weight of the car break it free.

[fanaudical]

Steel plug in an aluminum (or mag) case leads to some electrolysis. Heat might not help much.

I wouldn't do channel locks. Too much impact wrench might round out the plug then you're really stuck.

Make the socket in the fill plug is very clean. Scrape the corners with a pick.

Apply penetrant and let it soak. Maybe try the 1/2 acetone + 1/2 ATF stuff. Reapply and soak some more.

Tap (lightly) the allen wrench into the plug with a hammer to make it stick. Use your big extensions, breaker bar, cheater pipe - brute torque time.

I apply some PTFE tape to my drain and fill plugs to help removal next time.

[GH85Carrera]

When you replace it, don't get another fill plug! Get a drain plug with the magnet. The differential throws oil right on it. If there is evidence of metal on the new fill plug, it is a early warning system. If there is more metal on the fill plug than the drain plug, it is time to look at the bearings in the transmission, before it destroys the other parts.

[smadsen]

I had success years ago with a 1/2" breaker bar and a 3' piece of pipe. Arrange it so you can lower the car to apply torque with the weight of the car as you lower it. Looking in from the wheel well, your breaker/pipe contraption should be at about a 45 degree angle. A smooth floor is a help as the bar will want to slide a bit as you lower the car.

This set up is a pain in the neck, but it's funny, the last thing you try always works.

[REVerend]

I did get a pair of magnetic drain plugs to replace mine with.

Originally Posted by smadsen

I had success years ago with a 1/2" breaker bar and a 3' piece of pipe. Arrange it so you can lower the car to apply torque with the weight of the car as you lower it. Looking in from the wheel well, your breaker/pipe contraption should be at about a 45 degree angle. A smooth floor is a help as the bar will want to slide a bit as you lower the car.

This set up is a pain in the neck, but it's funny, the last thing you try always works.

That’s what I’m looking at doing… I have a quickjack to lift the car so it should be pretty straightforward. Just thinking it over I’m thinking that I will use a couple of plastic with some grease to make the bar slide and translate the torque most effectively.

[Magyar Kiwi]

Hi
Also make sure plug and hex tool are clean and dry, then apply lapping paste to the mating surfaces to increase grip and prevent slipping.
Don't agree with lowering car against tool and ground to undo.
Recommend use of breaker bar and extension pipe, this ensures much better control.
Cheers

[REVerend]

Originally Posted by Magyar Kiwi

Hi
Also make sure plug and hex tool are clean and dry, then apply lapping paste to the mating surfaces to increase grip and prevent slipping.
Don't agree with lowering car against tool and ground to undo.
Recommend use of breaker bar and extension pipe, this ensures much better control.
Cheers

I’m thinking of cleaning out the inside of the plug to get the penetrating oil out and then using a thin coat of JB weld to epoxy the bit in place. My thinking is that will keep it maximally secure and engaged. I’m definitely going to try some extension on the breaker bar before I try lowering the car on it, that’s sorta the last ditch nuclear option.

[pmax]

Originally Posted by Magyar Kiwi

Hi
Also make sure plug and hex tool are clean and dry, then apply lapping paste to the mating surfaces to increase grip and prevent slipping.
Don't agree with lowering car against tool and ground to undo.
Recommend use of breaker bar and extension pipe, this ensures much better control.
Cheers

I second this.

Make sure the car is stable though before going to town on it.

[porschetub]

Originally Posted by 76FJ55

Do you have a large pair of channel locks that you can grab the threaded lip with? If so, I would think the combination of turning with the channel locks and simultaneously hitting it with the impact should be sufficient to get that thing turning.

As for heat, I don't think you will have a problem with overheating the case with the propane torch, but if you're worried and have an IR temp gun, just periodically check the temp. id limit the heating to 300F. then you could also stick an ice cube up against the plug briefly to help contract it in the heated aluminum housing, which may help it break free as well.

Fortunately, since you have replacement plugs already you don't have to worry about scarring up the current ones.

I agree ,clean the oil off ,heat around the casing but don't go crazy hot, heat it once then spray penetrant on while still hot ,repeat again and let it cool ,it should undo fine.
Used this method on many situations on VAG cars ,cheers.

[Bill Douglas]

Another idea is to go to a place like a tire centre where they have (description???) air hammer things. Looks like a big electric drill. and it gives it knocks as well as torque.

[REVerend]

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas

Another idea is to go to a place like a tire centre where they have (description???) air hammer things. Looks like a big electric drill. and it gives it knocks as well as torque.

I have already hit it with an impact wrench with the torque cranked all the way up. I was expecting that would break it loose but no luck.

At this point I have the wheel off and am just planning on heating it up every day and giving it a shot of penetrating oil as many have suggested. I had previously given it a few shots of oil but I suspect that it was too infrequent to do much. Will give it a try again after a week of heating/oiling and see how things go.

[REVerend]

Originally Posted by pmax

I second this.

Make sure the car is stable though before going to town on it.

I’m a little paranoid about all that… I have a quickjack and it seems pretty stable but I have built up some wooden boxes/blocks that I place under the car for additional good measure. With those in place it makes things pretty stable where the car couldn’t even move enough to tip the quick jack even if rubber blocks somehow shifted.

[john walker's workshop]

You can mig weld a 1/2" drive socket to it,... if you have a welder.

[porschetub]

Originally Posted by REVerend

I have already hit it with an impact wrench with the torque cranked all the way up. I was expecting that would break it loose but no luck.

At this point I have the wheel off and am just planning on heating it up every day and giving it a shot of penetrating oil as many have suggested. I had previously given it a few shots of oil but I suspect that it was too infrequent to do much. Will give it a try again after a week of heating/oiling and see how things go.

That will get you there ,use your best penetrant and after the heating the case it would have expanded enough to "wick in" to the gap created by heating.
Cheers.

[Ian Comerford]

I had similar trouble with my car shortly after buying it many years ago and felt that I was about to round off the plug. I noticed that my hex tool had slightly radiuses corners which weren’t helping apply a force right at the bottom of the hex in the plug, so I ground the end flat to ensure better engagement. I then put the tool into the plug with an extension bar and gave it two or three sharp smacks with a hammer to try to shock the threads into movement. It came straight out

[pmax]

Originally Posted by REVerend

I’m a little paranoid about all that… I have a quickjack and it seems pretty stable but I have built up some wooden boxes/blocks that I place under the car for additional good measure. With those in place it makes things pretty stable where the car couldn’t even move enough to tip the quick jack even if rubber blocks somehow shifted.

Sounds like you're good ! Personally, I go a step further in not relying on any stands as much as I can when I need to be under the car. Earthquake country for one.

[mepstein]

Good quality bit. Milwaukee 1/2” impact gun. Always works.