Ultimate Motor Oil Thread or Why we hate CJ4/SM oils - Page 3

dan79brooklyn · 09-22-2007, 07:22 AM

Mobil 1 V-Twin sounds like good stuff:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Motorcycle_Oil_FAQs.aspx#FAQs5

chrisp · 09-22-2007, 07:36 AM

Is that on your chart? I don't see it.

HarryD · 07:41 AM

FYI, Larry T (no affilation but you will see him on the Rennlist e-mail server) offers an oil analysis service. You can check it out here: www.youroil.net. He llists some of the results here: http://members.rennlist.com/oil.

I also added VR-1 (non street Legal) to the list in my opening post.

HarryD · 09-22-2007, 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisp

Is that on your chart? I don't see it.

Thanks for noting that I forgot the "1" for the Mobil 1 V-Twin MC listing. It has been corrected.

chrisp · 09-22-2007, 07:59 AM

Glad it reminded you but I was actually asking Charles why the M1 10-40 is not on his

Thanks for compiling all of this info.

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

I would particularly like to hear Mike's comments on the liklihood of detrimental additive interactions - including early depletion, but also any other negative interactions...

jaydubya · 09-24-2007, 11:00 AM

I just had the transmission rebuilt on my 911SC race car, and they replaced the oil with "ELF Oil". Assuming that it was not obtained by squeezing elfs, so I asked them for some more details and they said it was ELF Excelium Racing 10W-50 (full synthetic), and they started using it exactly for the reasons mentioned earlier in this thread and the others.

I googled it and found this:

http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/FichePDF/lang_1/1087.pdf

Does this mean anything to any of the experts out there?

The other interesting tidbit I found out from them is that they have been doing some dyno testing on oils in their cup car. Apparently Royal Purple (not sure which one, will try to find out) was good for 8 hp more than the "regular" oil they have been using..

Cheers,

Jeff

hcoles · 09-24-2007, 11:07 AM

Charles...
I probably missed something... on your website and long listing of oils.. I don't see Swepco 15-40 and/or Brad Penn.. with the Zn P and Boron numbers. I did goof up and not read completely or look in the wrong spot? I'm starting to think Swepco will be the one for me and then I don't need to add an improver... what is the approx. shipping cost to the West Coast? Thanks very much,
-Henry
89 911 - recent top end - 85k miles - daily, some track, some AX

cnavarro · 09-24-2007, 11:29 AM

Both the Swepco and Brad Penn numbers were wrong, so I posted in the comments below what the manufacturers said they should be.

Shipping on a case of oil is roughly $20 (12 quarts).

For those who do not know, Pelican also carries Swepco 306 15w40.

We have seen similar HP differences - in fact, we did a side by side with Royal Purple, Amsoil, and Mobil 1 (all motorcycle formulations - 20w50), and saw huge differences on even a small, low HP 1915cc 110hp vw engine versus Castrol GTX as the baseline. RP was right at 8 hp. Mobil 1 v-twin and Amsoil Harley were neck and neck at about 15 hp more than the cheapy 20w50. Same dyno, same oils, on a big type 4, well over twice the hp but saw the identical increases in horsepower. Very mind boggling. I just had one of my customers make the same observation on a 993 race engine they were dynoing. Doesn't seem to matter what size or horsepower engine, but the oils do the same hp increases.

Worth noting, we did some other testing and on the street (actually driving cross country), the oils that made the best hp didn't necessarily have the lowest wear. Brad Penn had the same wear levels as the M1 v-twin and Amsoil Harley.

donstevens · donstevens's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by cnavarro

Worth noting, we did some other testing and on the street (actually driving cross country), the oils that made the best hp didn't necessarily have the lowest wear. Brad Penn had the same wear levels as the M1 v-twin and Amsoil Harley.

I am a little surprised that the Amsoil and M1 V-twin had identical numbers. I guess that goes to show how competitive the two are.

The comment about the "best Hp didn't necessarily have the lowest wear" makes some sense considering all of oils are the best compromise between wear and "slickness". Low friction does not necessarily mean low wear. Particularly on Hi Po engine with very heavy valve springs.

Don

47silver · 47silver's Garage

just received 15 quarts of bp 20w50

green oil looks cool, and i cant wait to put it in the 2.7, and since i found this thread a couple weeks ago, i have been concerned about my early summer castrol oil change and the oil not having the necessary additives

Hard-Deck · 09-25-2007, 07:53 PM

O/K, I'm a fighter pilot, but no chemical engineer.

So if I purchase COMP Cams® Engine Break-In Oil Additive, what oils should I consider adding this to and in what ratio?

I probably missed that in all of this thread, but I need a simple clarification and I'm good.

Porsche-O-Phile · Porsche-O-Phile's Garage

Just bought 2 cases of Royal Purple 15w50. I'll let you know if I feel any difference. It sure as hell made my wallet lighter.

slodave · slodave's Garage

I run Rotella SAE 40 and it is a CF, CF-2/SH oil. I can get it by the barrel in the San Fernando Valley. It runs about $38.00 for 12 quarts. I guess I am lucky, since the L.A. does not get too cold, I can run single weight, year round.

Dave

hcoles · 09-26-2007, 05:59 AM

I've made two separate tries, via the website, to see if Pelican has Swepco 15-40wt for sale to no avail.....I think they may not sell it any more.

cnavarro · 09-26-2007, 06:09 AM

I'm sure they still carry it since I spoke to Wayne about it at the Ventura Autofest - just call their toll-free number and ask for it.

dan79brooklyn · 09-26-2007, 06:24 AM

I just bought 12 quarts of Mobil 1 MXT 10w-40 Synthetic (was pretty expensive) but I hope that it is one of the best oils for year round use in my 'new' 1993 964. This is the Mobil 1 Motorcycle oil.

squelch · 09-26-2007, 07:34 AM

Now that we have a solid list of good oils to use, what is the general consensus on drain intervals, assuming we are not using a low detergent race oil? For instance, I plan to go with one of the V-twin synthetics. Is my drain interval strictly based on mileage, or should I change it at certain intervals regardless of mileage?
Assume basic on-road driving. No DE's, AX or track.

Thanks

cnavarro · 09-26-2007, 07:48 AM

Assuming normal detergency ~TBN 10.0, I would say that you could go as long as a year without changing the oil on cars not driven that often, as long as when they are run, the oil gets sufficiently hot and for long enough period of time to get the moisture out of the oil. I never put on lots of miles, but change mine more on time, every six months.

One of the worst things you can do for a non-daily driver is just get it warm once a week, running it in the garage or around town for a few minutes. I try not to drive my 911 unless I know it's going to be running for at least 20 or 30 minutes once it's warm.

As far as mileage is concerned, it boils down to how conservative you want to be. I don't at all agree with Porsche's drain intervals. Without used oil analysis to tell you exactly how much life is left in your oil, on a daily driver I'd say do a filter change at 3,000-3750 mi and top off the oil, then change at 6,000-7500 mi. This would be about half the mileage from what Porsche recommended, say for a 964. I practice the same on my new VWs, cutting the drain intervals in half.

dan79brooklyn · 09-26-2007, 07:48 AM

I believe on Charles site he suggests every six months. I think a lot of people don't put many miles on their cars, and change once a year. When I was running Castrol GTX in my SC I was changing once or twice a year at 5-6,000 miles and my oil analysis at Blackstone said everything was still good.
I just bought a 964 and want to run it on synthetic (Mobil 1 MXT 10-40) and will change once a year...

Charles beat me to it!