Ultimate Motor Oil Thread or Why we hate CJ4/SM oils

[cnavarro]

According to VOA done earlier this year on the new 'non-ep' does not have the same levels as the old, good stuff, and is more like the 0w40 product, which I guess is just OK for a new Porsche, but no good for an old one. Again, this is my personal opinion and not the opinon of Porsche and Mobil's advertising on Porsche's behalf, but I'll never go back to m1 15w50, but that's just me. There are many on this board who have gone to the M1 V-Twin 20w50 or the MX4T 10w40 (for those who like a bit lighter oil) and have been very pleased. Even a handful stopped by my table at the German Auto Fest to tell me so :-)

[KNS]

Charles,

The comment about cam and lifter wear concerns me. I just did an oil change with Valvoline VR-1 (SM, street legal stuff). I also added one bottle of STP 4-Cylinder Oil Treatment, (Red Bottle). It says - *ZDDP anti-wear agents - on the label. Will this be sufficient? For a 1980 911SC
- Thanks

[dshepp806]

Charles,

After being so frustrated at trying to find (in my area) the new M-1 (silver/clear?) top reissue stuff...I had the parts store order me a case of the Royal Purple, 20W50, Max Cycle,..arrived today. RP "street" high performance 20w50 has been used last with 2,499 on this oil.

Geeze,..when I first got my car (89) I used Mobile One , SL version, 2 or 3 times,..then all of the change stuff became topic of discussion. Thanks to Charle's site and others, info is THERE!!! I had switched to RP street,...and am now on my way to RP Max Cycle. I hope to settle here.

I intend to test my sampling from the present RP street stuff,......change out slated this weekend. I'll report back the results,....

Time to load the Max Cycle stuff and see how she does on a few measured cycles of oil changes.

I've always changed at 3K miles TOPS, with filter (of course),..NO additives......valve adjustments done EVERY 15K (I don't care what I'm hearing,..and have more concern about what I wouldn't be hearing...)

May even drop in a fresh CAT,..prepping, to handle what's thrown at it with my Zinc/Phos laden oil!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! She's completely stock........and will remain so.

I didn't know you're company even sold oil!?! (till now...)

My case (12 qts) of RP Max Cycle 20W50 today totalled $98.00, including the 7% sales tax) ....she needs 10.5 quarts for the changeout..keep one in the bonnet.

Thanks for your input, Charles,

Best,.........................

[cnavarro]

Kurt, you are probably ok, just change it early and then put something in better. At least you did use the Red STP. If you top off, use more STP product then.

[oliver88]

A GM EOS replacement....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ZDDP-Oil-Additive-6-Pack_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46098QQihZ002QQite mZ120166102387QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=993034&an=0&page=0#Post993034

[cnavarro]

I currently have some of the ZDDP plus product as well as a product out of Australia that I have sent out to be independently tested on a cam spintron, along with a control of non-detergent oil, all of which will be blended with an SM oil.

I'm in the process of building my own spintron, but it might be the winter before I have it done.

[KNS]

Charles,
Thanks for the reply...!

[unclebilly]

Originally Posted by HarryD

Personally, since I have a stash of EOS, I am planning on using a good CJ-4 oil (Delo 400) until I need to do something else. 10 quarts of Delo and a bottle of EOS should keep my Tappets happy.

OK, so I've been running Delo 400 5w40 synthetic in my 911's and all of my other vehicles for quite a few years now. Should I be adding something else to it or is it good on it's own?

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by unclebilly

OK, so I've been running Delo 400 5w40 synthetic in my 911's and all of my other vehicles for quite a few years now. Should I be adding something else to it or is it good on it's own?

Hi Uncle Billy,

Assuming the Delo 500 is a CJ-4 rated oil, I think you will need to add EOS (or something like it). If it is a CI-4 you will ok as is.

[unclebilly]

Yup, it looks like it should be OK then.

Chevron Delo 400 Synthetic heavy duty motor oils
meet:
• API Service Categories
— CG-4, CF-4, CF, CD1, SH1, SJ
— Energy Conserving for API SH1 (SAE 0W-30)
— CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, SL (SAE 5W-40)
• major diesel engine manufacturers'
requirements
— Mack EO-N Premium Plus 03, EO-N Premium
Plus, EO-M PLUS, EO-M (SAE 5W-40)
— Cummins CES 20078, 20076, 20071
(SAE 5W-40)
• performance requirements of
— Allison C4 (SAE 0W-30)

The Phosphorus and Zinc wt%'s are below...
Phosphorus, wt % 0.136
Zinc, wt % 0.151

This delo 400 is actually quite inexpensive - I pay $22/gallon. It used to be $16/gallon when I first started using it.

[K-Jetronic]

...few questions which I hope you can answer

- Is the Mobil 1 0W40 formula the same worldwide (Europe)?

-With the lower ZDDP levels can we asssume that if you change the oil more often than normal let's say every 3000miles it will be safe?

-Anyone know off an EOS like supplement available in Europe (The Netherlands)?

[BLEW911]

I was following this but I'm getting confused. I though I was OK with Castrol GTX. Now I read that Z & P are used up rapidly in Castrol. What is the recomendation for an off the shelf dino oil needing no additives?

Don

[cnavarro]

I thought too that GTX was good, and after comments not of failed parts, put new parts looking like they are worn out with GTX, I did some UOA, and found that GTX must not protect parts as well as Brad Penn, M1 V-Twin, Swepco, etc, as the Zn and P get used up much faster. That's why I really stopped recommending GTX unless changed very often (<3000 mi).

The 0w40 Mobil 1 sold here is the same as everywhere else in the world, unless you have really old stock, like I found here, that the bottles were 10 years old :-)

[GothingNC]

I heard good things about Joe Gibbs Racing oil

http://beardenracefuels.com/listempro.php?file=products&newsno=1017

$56.94 12 Qt case - free shipping

http://www.pitstopusa.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=4834

Is this OK for street use without the Catalytic Converter?

[cnavarro]

The last VOA I saw for the Joe Gibbs oil showed great levels of Zn and P, but the detergency was very lacking, even lower than VR-1 non-street-legal and probably more like Redline's non-detergent race oils.

[GothingNC]

Charles,

Thanks !

I found out the Charles Gibbs oil I posted the linke to was designed for non-steet use with frequent oil changes.

[htron435]

Okay, first question -- so what is the cut-off year that determines if you have an "old engine" that needs these oils? Is this for all years of aircooled thru '98?

Second question -- are any of these oils better suited to a car that sees a lot of track time, or does synthetic vs. dino really matter as long as the right additives are there?

[Steve@Rennsport]

Jay:

ALL of the air-cooled cars need these oils. There are other cars that need the good stuff, too.

Given the now-blurry distinctions between dino and synthetic oils, the base stocks and additive packages are much more important than anything else. This does not matter whether its a street engine or a competition motor.

[K-Jetronic]

Last year I asked Porsche Classic by mail if they used Mobil1 0w40 and if not what they would recommend, guess what...no reply!

[htron435]

Thanks Steve. Now, what about oil filters? For combination street/track usage, what's the best. I read earlier that someone recommended the Mobil1 or K&N over the Mahle filters. Would you agree? Is there a consensus on which filter provides the best combination of cleaning and flow-thru for higher revving applications?