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The temperature drop is from the friction modifiers - we've seen equal drops in temperature using other oils that are friction modifed - m1 v-twin, rp max cycle, etc. Temperature drop doesn't really equate to less wear but probably more so a small reduction in fuel consumption or a bit more hp.
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I apologize in advance is this has been covered. but what is the difference between the mobile 1 Gold and Silver Caps?
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I think the silver cap is a "new" model with a bit more e.g. ZDDP added... something like that. I think all else being equal CN likes the new silver cap better than old gold or existing gold cap.
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I'm not going by cap color - the extended performance (which I think is the gold cap) has more detergents, so I prefer not to use that formulation. In all honesty, the levels of Zn and P in the motorcycle versions are probably safe for as late as a 993 without any problem - the levels of Zn and P in it are equivalent to what were used in the regular m1 in the 90s. In fact, if you compare the motorcycle versions to their old (now discontinued) M1-R formulation, they are dead on identical to the old SJ formulations basically. Hope that clarifies things. The non-gold cap, the "re-introduced" 15w50 (red, now silver cap, or whatever), is totally different from the old SL version and especially different from the old SJ version that was avaialable probably until sometime in 2004.
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I have been running the Mobil 1 MXT 10-40 in my 964 for the past year. It's been using a bit of oil so I want to top it up but I am out of the MXT oil. What 'regular' Mobil 1 product should I use if I need to add a couple quarts before the next oil change?
I am up to about 7000 miles since the last oil change...Think this is bad? Will be changing in the next couple months. TIA ![]()
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It's probably time to change it - I would say 5-6k would be a more appropriate schedule for the MX4T. If you need to top off, no reason not to use the same oil to do so. The thicker 20w50 would probably reduce your oil consumption too.
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Thanks for the info Charles...the thing is I am out of the MXT so wanted to add some Mobil 1 non motorcycle oil (high mileage Mobil 1 or something...)
I do feel like I left the oil in longer than normal, but over the period of the 7000 miles I added about six quarts, does this extend the 'life' of the oil change? I will do an oil analysis on the MXT when I change it and will post the results here...
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My understanding is the Motorcycle oils have a bit less detergent in them, so IMHO, I would stick more towards 5k for the change... Consider the RedLine Motorcycle Oils too. They have 10W30,10W40, 20W50, and 20W60 all in their synthetic Motorcycle grade oils... I've ran the Red line 20W60 for the last 3 oil changes, and so far so good!
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Just poured in Brad Penn and she's purring like a kitten. Thank you Charles for the technical analysis and referral.
![]() 87 blk coupe |
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Has anyone changed from Mobil 1 v-Twin to Brad Penn 20-50? Why and what was your experience(smoke, usage, leaking, etc), other than the price difference and local availability? According to Charles, both are great oils, but different in several ways.
Thanks in advance, Robo
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Quote:
And Charles, what is partial synthetic with the Brad Penn brand? I have tried some of the synthetic blends, and wasn't that impressed with them. Does Brad Penn have a higher content level of synthetic?
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I plan on doing a back to back Brad Penn to M1 V-Twin comparison - right now I'm doing a comparison versus the old pre-reformulation/re-introduction version of the 15w50.
The % synthetic content is ~10%, group III, hydrocracked from Brad Penn stock, so no, it's not a very high synthetic content. It's there more so to help with the cold flow performance such that it doesn't need as much viscosity modifiers.
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Aloha
Eh Braddah, more betta you get me one case of da kine oil for my 74 911 at da base stor.
Translation: My fellow Prosche brother in Hawaii, I would greatly appreciate if you could purchase a case of that fine oil with the proper levels of Z's and P's the next time you are at the Navy base store in Pearl Harbor. HA! HA! HA! I am originally from Parker Ranch on the Big Island and some day will lead the ultimate 911 tour drive on the island of Hawaii starting in Kona and ending at Kilauea Volcano House for drinks and dinner.
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Charles,
I'll anxiously await the results of your Brad Penn vs Mobil 1 V-twin tests. Thanks for all of your time, knowledge, and effort for our benefit. Robo
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Don't hold your breath, it might be this time next year before I have results - I have lots of miles to drive between now and then! :-)
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Charles,
If you're driving a Porsche, "lots of mile" can't be bad. Is there any risk in me changing from the Mobil 1 v-Twin to the Brad Penn 20-50? Robo
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It should have read, with winter coming, I don't get that as many chances to drive my 911 as I would like to.
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Charles Navarro President, LN Engineering and Bilt Racing Service http://www.LNengineering.com Home of Nickies, IMS Retrofit, and IMS Solution |
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Robo, Brad Penn is good safe oil (partial syn), but if the M1vtwin passes muster, it will open the options and minds for more drivers.
Charles... what is the recommended drain interval on BP 20/50 and 10/30? IIRC it BP is low in detergents?
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5-6k mixed city/highway miles on the Brad Penn is a very conservative mileage, for a 911 that is. That would leave you with a residual TBN of about 5. Add track time in there, and that number will be less. The BP starts life with a TBN of 10, which is what the Porsche spec calls for, believe it or not :-)
There really shouldn't be any reason to use their 10w30 on a 911 - unless you live in a VERY cold climate.
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I'm going to be running BP 20W50 in my race car and plan on sending in samples after races to see what's going on..
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