A/C Upgrade Project starts tomorrow!

[mthomas58]

Addl observations of the OEM or Kuehl front condenser vs the thicker DD model.

Even with approx 1/4 spacers needed to drop the rock guard down to accomodate the 1" thicker unit, the condenser now sits flush on the bottom of the guard. Note in last pic that the factory set up has about 3/4" of air space between the bottom of the condenser and the rock guard providing an addl margin of protection.

Spacers needed to drop cage




Desert Duty mounted - rock guard flush with bottom of condenser


Air space between cage and condenser. Condenser sits above the crash bar in the factory set up.

[mtbguy]

Mark- what was you ride height at the time of the RR. track impact, factory or lowered? Also, do you have 16 inch wheels or low profile 17 inch wheels?

I started working on removing all of my components this month and bought the DD condenser- I'm at stock ride height but 17 inch wheels- hoping to avoid a similar fate with my brand new DD condenser.

Can the crash bar itself also be lowered a bit? It seems like it would be much stronger than the cage in this situation.

Sorry to hear of your brand new condensers fate...

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by mtbguy

Mark- what was you ride height at the time of the RR. track impact, factory or lowered? Also, do you have 16 inch wheels or low profile 17 inch wheels?

I started working on removing all of my components this month and bought the DD condenser- I'm at stock ride height but 17 inch wheels- hoping to avoid a similar fate with my brand new DD condenser.

Can the crash bar itself also be lowered a bit? It seems like it would be much stronger than the cage in this situation.

Sorry to hear of your brand new condensers fate...

My 1987 is totally stock, except for the crash bar. The crash bar was lowered 3/4" at the time of impact, BUT I had not yet come up with a solution to the center mount. Center bar mount bolts to tub through the trunk. When the bar is lowered the holes no longer line up. Had the center point been mounted at the time of impact the condenser damage would probably have been reduced, but the tub would likely have been damaged at the mounting point.

[hcoles]

Originally Posted by mthomas58

Good luck on getting it! I've called three times this week to see if anyone can tell me when it might ship....it's been in "picking order status" for 8 days and all customer no-service can tell me is the only thing they can do is email the supplier to find out the status and call me back....then no one calls me back WTF?

Pretty crappy internet order fulfillment service!

Hope I didn't lead you astray

UPDATE: Oh my, a call back......est delivery 4/3 but will try to expedite and should receive earlier.

UPDATE UPDATE: Just checked order status again. After 8 days in "picking order" status followed by a telephone call yesterday that is was shipping the system now shows "backordered" status !

I got the book last night... there is a lot of good info. in there.. I now have 10x the number of questions I had before. I see now why knowledgeable AC shops are not easy to find... there is a lot to know.

[brads911sc]

What adjustments need to be made to the Expansion Valve to handle R134. I bought the new Rennaire Evap from Pelican and it came with a new Expansion Valvue. Also bought the procooler, barrier hoses, dessert duty, sanden 507, and a new rear lid condensor...

[JFairman]

I don't think you have to adjust it, and I don't see an adjustment on it.
I have the same kit, but I'm reusing the origonal 930 halfbay rear condenser and put a 10" fan under it since the serpentine ones are so $$.

If you bought the kit new from Rennaire I think they ask you what refrigerent you plan to use when you make the order.

Call them before you install it to be sure.
830.522.0300

[brads911sc]

bought from Pelican, but didnt buy the kit... did seperate because I ordered over a few months and changed my mind and added some things as I went along... does anyone have clear documented pics of the hose mounting and procooler install?

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by brads911sc

bought from Pelican, but didnt buy the kit... did seperate because I ordered over a few months and changed my mind and added some things as I went along... does anyone have clear documented pics of the hose mounting and procooler install?

Yep, check here, good pics

Let the AC fun begin....oh to blow 45!!!

[JFairman]

Originally Posted by brads911sc

bought from Pelican, but didnt buy the kit... did seperate because I ordered over a few months and changed my mind and added some things as I went along... does anyone have clear documented pics of the hose mounting and procooler install?

Here's a shot of my procooler that I just installed.

The hose coming in from the top is coming from the front condensor to be filtered in the reciever dryer portion of the procooler.

The hose that travels by to the left and doesn't hook up to anything in the picture is the high pressure hose coming from the rear condensor and going to the front condensor.

The other hose conected to the top of the procooler goes to the expansion valve and then through the evaporater to chill everything...

The big hose on the side comes from the evaporator to cool off the procooler, and the bottom hose is the low pressure or suction hose and it returns to the compressor.

[hcoles]

I'm curious why instead of a ProCooler why can't you use a small heat exchanger with the cool evap. return on one side and hot high side on its way to the expansion valve? Maybe there would be too many connections and parts..to fit in the wheel well. If you used a separate small heat exchanger then you could use a standard r/d.

[ljowdy]

I did just about everything you've done to your AC system and it still didn't blow enough cold air to my satisfaction. (the air was cold but the volume of air coming from the vents was low)

Unfortunately, I had a dealer installed underdash vent system that originally required the dealer to remove the knee pads and then install their under dash unit.

I found a factory underdash vent system, a pair of knee pads and what a difference in the stream of air coming from the vents. The factory design is far superior in air flow and worth the investment for those with the dealer unit.

It was money well spent.

[Barrpete]

Originally Posted by hcoles

I'm curious why instead of a ProCooler why can't you use a small heat exchanger with the cool evap. return on one side and hot high side on its way to the expansion valve? Maybe there would be too many connections and parts..to fit in the wheel well. If you used a separate small heat exchanger then you could use a standard r/d.

Sounds like you are describing Jim SIm's subcooler. A/C Subcooler Information

[hcoles]

yes, yes... exactly - perfect home brew "ProCooler" - thanks for the link..

[mthomas58]

Project update: Well, unfortunatley nothing to report . Charging delayed by weather. Its 56 degrees as I sit here today watching the Masters and doing taxes. And, we're supposed to have a freeze on Tuesday.

Waiting for for temps of 85+ to charge. Was planning on vacuuming and leak testing this weekend then waiting for warmer temps to charge but could not find the time.

Stay tuned

[Mike Andrew]

Well, I spent the weekend getting this A/C project rolling. When it was described as a dirty job, that was a gross understatement. I needed Mike Rowe to help. There must have been a yard of crap inside the front fender,collected since 1980. And the hoses were just as filthy. But, everything is now in a pile awaiting the garbageman tonight.

I pulled the 2 long hoses and got them temporarily clamped until I can get back at it tonight. The eveporator wrap will have to wait until I can find a new capillary tube somewhere as mine was pretty fried. Have to call a few hobby stores to find some tubing, I guess.

As I pulled the evaporator box, I made a grisly discovery. There on the bottom was a mummified mouse and a stash of fiberglass insulation as well as a few acorns. Since there are no oaks in my neighborhood, I have surmised that the carcass has been there since I purchased it from the PO whose property was covered in oaks. I actually gagged a bit when I discovered the beast.

[kuehl]

Originally Posted by Mike Andrew

until I can find a new capillary tube somewhere as mine was pretty fried. Have to call a few hobby stores to find some tubing, I guess.

Mike, are you referring to the aluminum capillary tube from the thermostat or the protective brass sleeve?

Do you intend to charge the mouse rent ? If the mouse already has a
lease are your going to garnish the rental deposit? Is the rental area
covered by the federal assistance low income housing policy? We had
had one messy fella one year, he left behind rather large chicken bones.
No manners whatsoever.

[Mike Andrew]

Kuehl;

I am referring to the protective sleeve which is about .138 diameter.

I cannot figure out how he got in there to begin with. A damn acrobat.

[ljowdy]

The protective sleeve that goes over the end of the thermostat wire and is then pushed into the evaporator isn't really necessary. My AC guy said it's "nice" but not necessary. When I did my upgrade I didn't use the protective tube and everything is working fine.

[kuehl]

You can omit the protective sleeve however we usually find that overtime the capillary tube,
which is filled with refrigerant gas, can break from vibration or from mishandling. When it breaks the gas escapes from the capillary tube and the thermostat switch is then kaput!

We provide a new protective sleeve with the Kuehl evaporators,
Kuehl Evap shown on host's site here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search.cgi?command=show_part_page&please_wait=N&make=POR&model=911M&section=VENTac&page=2&bookmark=12&part_number=10-7517-910-M207
however you can probably find something in a hobby store or online that may have a thin enough wall to allow for fast temperature transfer; the tubing must have a small enough ID as well.

When inserting the protective sleeve, with the capillary tube inside, insure you are inserting it through the fins of the evaporator and not into one of the evaporator's tubes; insertion depth for capillary tube is approximately 4" from the end of the tube to the top of the evaporator box.


If you wish to read up on the function of the capillary tube its here:
http://www.griffiths.com/achelp/achelp2.html

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by Mike Andrew

Well, I spent the weekend getting this A/C project rolling. When it was described as a dirty job, that was a gross understatement. I needed Mike Rowe to help. There must have been a yard of crap inside the front fender,collected since 1980. And the hoses were just as filthy. But, everything is now in a pile awaiting the garbageman tonight.

I pulled the 2 long hoses and got them temporarily clamped until I can get back at it tonight. The eveporator wrap will have to wait until I can find a new capillary tube somewhere as mine was pretty fried. Have to call a few hobby stores to find some tubing, I guess.

As I pulled the evaporator box, I made a grisly discovery. There on the bottom was a mummified mouse and a stash of fiberglass insulation as well as a few acorns. Since there are no oaks in my neighborhood, I have surmised that the carcass has been there since I purchased it from the PO whose property was covered in oaks. I actually gagged a bit when I discovered the beast.

Everything you ever wanted to know about that little brass protective tube and more right here:

Evaporator froze up again.

Sorry to hear about your little friend....all I found was a stash of leaves, whirly oak tree seeds, and three box clips.