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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 5,823
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Pulsating lights - why?
I always meant to post but kept forgetting.
When my lights are on, they pulsate. Both dash lights and headlights. At regular idle, they don't do this. Only when I get on the gas. It doesn't seem to get faster with higher revs, nor does the pulsating get more...intense... Is this a normal thing in 911's? If not, what causes it?
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'85 911. White - 53,000 miles bought 3-16-07. "Casper" '88 924S. Blue - 120k miles bought with 105k miles. '94 968 Coupe - White - 108,000 miles bought 9-28-17 '09 Cayman - Grey - bought 9-8-20 |
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UNDER CONSTRUCTION!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: ALASKA
Posts: 1,508
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hello
not normal i would check the charge voltage with lights on and lights off both at idle and higher revs. sounds like a regulator problem or diode depending if you are internal regulated or external. i have seen the ground on the back of the alt. cause this type of problem as well as the one up front on the battery. check the voltages check the grounds and get back to us. thanks ed
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Sometimes the first thing that comes to mind should be the last thing that you do! ![]() |
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Max Sluiter
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This is just a crazy thought without reviewing my electrical textbooks,
The diodes in the alternator might be going. The 4 diodes with 2 in series in parallel branches I believe is called a bridge rectifier. This functions to cut the peaks off of the AC sine wave and help convert AC to DC.
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
Posts: 17,321
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an alt is a 3 phase generator. it has 3 pairs of diodes. one diode on each pair allows the positive portion of the sine wave of that phase to go to the battery and electrrics, the other diode sends the negitive portion to ground. if you look at the output of a bridge rect. with an O scope, it would look like a ramped DC, or a saw tooth. IE, the voltage may start at 13 volts and ramp up to 15 volts, then drop down and do it again. if you add a capacitor to the output, it smooths out the ramps and make a flat DC voltage. yes i am at work and putting off doing work right now, its early. if you just had one pair of diodes, the ramps would be steeper, or there would be more of a swing, say, 11 to 15 volts. (i dont know the exact volts, just numbers to give you an idea of what it looks like). plus, the 3 phase is more efficient.
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86 930 94kmiles [_ ![]() 88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ ![]() 01 suburban 330K:: [_ ![]() RACE CAR:: sold |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2002
Location: St Louis
Posts: 4,211
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Only when you get on it like raise the rpms? It could be a diode breaks down with the higher peak inverse voltage but ???? It could be interacting with the regulator in some strange way. Does it do it without the car accelerating, like in your driveway in neutral?
I think Porsche has 6 phase alternator but could be wrong.
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Rick 88 Cab |
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AutoBahned
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I don't see how it could be a cap. at the speed things are happening during the rectification. My guess would be the voltage regulator but not sure re an '85...
IIRC, this sounds like what ancient cars did when they used to have DC generators in them - think I recall seeing this when I was a young kid... Bottom-line you need to drop the unit off at an alternator shop. |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 25,310
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Lord knows why those brilliant German engineers chose to build these cars without voltmeters.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 3,494
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Does your seatbelt warning light randomly come on? Do you smell a sulpher odor in your cabin? Check your battery to be sure it isn't cooking (and spilling acid). Sounds quite similar to voltage regulator problem I had when I first purchased my carrera years ago. My failure to timely address/diagnose the problems led to a failed tach, a fried DME, and an acid-damaged battery box area . . .
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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typical overcharging issue with 90A carrera alternators w/internal regulators. new alt time.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Windsor, CT
Posts: 2,119
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I had the same problem. New voltage regulator solved the problem.
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Mike '82 911SC, SSI, 22/29 tbars, 22F/22R Adj swaybars, Bilstein Sport, Elephant polybronze & monoballs, Cambermeister bar, turbo tierods, Carrera oil cooler, front brake cooling ducts, Sparco Sprint 5 & Recaro SRD PAX seat, Teamtech harness, DAS Sport rollbar. |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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the problem with just replacing the regulator is that the regulator's brushes usually have worn deep grooves in the alternator's thin commutator, sometimes most of the way through it. so the life of the commutator is very short and the brushes often don't seat well and/or get chewed by the rough commutator grooves. the commutator is too thin to machine smooth again, so it needs to be replaced. quicker to replace the entire unit.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 Last edited by john walker's workshop; 02-23-2010 at 03:03 PM.. |
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Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
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Had the same problem on my car. New alt. fixed it.
Definitely a wise idea to get a digital handheld voltmeter (or a nice sensitive analog) in the system so you can see the charge characteristics of the alt. as revs change. An extreme overcharge situation is bad news. I experienced this first hand with a faulty reman alt. I happened to be installing some gauges at the same time I did my alt. When done, my VDO slow-sweeping voltmeter would sway back and forth, and then go to max. Well that blew out my headlights (expensive 80W/100W H4 bulbs of course) and made some other things go wacky- same seatbelt light came on like darrin mentioned. So get that alt. replaced sooner than later!
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Kevin L '86 Carrera "Larry" |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Windsor, CT
Posts: 2,119
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Well, I understand about the wear risk. I guess the best way is to first look.
But I have to say, I replaced the voltage regulator 24,000 miles ago. Still working fine, and a lot cheaper than a new alternator.
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Mike '82 911SC, SSI, 22/29 tbars, 22F/22R Adj swaybars, Bilstein Sport, Elephant polybronze & monoballs, Cambermeister bar, turbo tierods, Carrera oil cooler, front brake cooling ducts, Sparco Sprint 5 & Recaro SRD PAX seat, Teamtech harness, DAS Sport rollbar. |
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Registered
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I'd watch both components (as one is failing presently),..I (personally) change both out as a system...I know,..more $$ should it be only one of two......don't really care about the $$$$..they work SO closely together, I make sure H/W is new.
Alternator (as JW suggested) can be tested. Matter of age and use of the hardware........ Best of luck to you.. Doyle
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Recording Engineer, Administrator and Entrepeneur Designer of Fine Studios, Tube Amplifier Guru 1989 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe 25th Anniversary Special Edition Middle Georgia Last edited by dshepp806; 02-23-2010 at 05:03 PM.. Reason: spelling |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 5,823
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Quote:
I can remove the battery and it will run just fine, so I don't think we're under-charning at all either. I've exploded a batery before years ago, so I'm VERY familliar with that Sulfur smell. Quote:
Come to think of it, this has happened since the day I bought the car. Four years ago. John, wanna test my Alt? ![]()
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'85 911. White - 53,000 miles bought 3-16-07. "Casper" '88 924S. Blue - 120k miles bought with 105k miles. '94 968 Coupe - White - 108,000 miles bought 9-28-17 '09 Cayman - Grey - bought 9-8-20 Last edited by WolfeMacleod; 02-24-2010 at 12:02 AM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2002
Location: St Louis
Posts: 4,211
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my 88 had deep grooves in the slip rings at 65,000 miles. I got an alternator online for $125. Before I installed it I took it apart to see what they did for that price and it did have new slip rings on it.
Put a voltmeter on the battery and Rev it up.
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Rick 88 Cab |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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Quote:
you already did the test, the lights pulsate, so it's overcharging. don't boil the battery dry.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Alps Adventurer
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Quote:
I'm installing one that I made for one of my motorcycle that has gone to heaven. It draws a mere 2 mA so I can connect it permanenetly across the battery without worrying about any significant drain. It'll be placed at the end of the console above the buttons and attached to the carpet with Velcro. Here are some pics... LCD Voltmeter ![]() |
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Alps Adventurer
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Are you sure you're not trying to clear traffic ahead of you.
![]() I haven't read all posts, but have you taken some voltage readings across the battery? Or try setting the meter to AC and turning the range down till you get a reading. I've read a few of the alternator explanations and started to ![]() A three phase alternator puts out three sine waves, each 120° apart, producing three positive half cycles and three negative half cycles. The diode pack (rectifier) flips the three negative half cycles to the top. The end result are six positive half cycles which overlap. The ripple follows the resultant until a battery (a capacitor) smooths it out to near DC. Have a look... Understanding Alternators |
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Alps Adventurer
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A very useful site for auto electronics such as alternators, starters (and their parts) as well as other components...
Transpo.de They have offices throughout. |
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