36MM Nut Oil Return Line at Flex Line and at Engine TORQUE SPEC???

[DRACO A5OG]

Okay Fellas, Bentley stated 89 ft/lbs for the engine 32MM adapter, done but nothing about the joyous 36MM Nut there or at the Flex line.



Does the brain trust know what the torque spec for the two 36MM nuts are? For that matter at the oil tank?






TIA,

Jim

P.S. I've used the breaker bar method but would sure like to know before I break something. Note both Flex Lines need a 1/4 turn back before tightening the oil tank on mine started to twist until I remembered a post warning of this. I actually used a clamp and held it in place to keep the rubber from twisting.

[Tremelune]

89 ft-lbs sounds very high to me..but...the exact torque won't matter for two reasons:

1) You won't be able to get a torque wrench on them all.

2) The factory manual I have says something like "If you notice any leaks, tighten the nut."

Do use a healthy amount of anti-seize.

[Dpmulvan]

Be careful! When I tore my motor down I noticed a bad repair with jb weld. Apparently someone cranked it so tight they broke part of the engine case.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by Dpmulvan

Be careful! When I tore my motor down I noticed a bad repair with jb weld. Apparently someone cranked it so tight they broke part of the engine case.

That is what I am afraid of. I used a 32MM socket and torqued to 89 ft/lbs then held in placed as I tightened the crapola out of the 36MM nut. What a PITA, had to tighten 6 times because it weaped.

Yeap 6 times removing the darn exchanger

[Tremelune]

I wish I had a source for this value, but I tightened my lines to a bit over 30 ft-lbs, and there are no leaks. I was using a crowsfoot extension and anti-seize.

Read all about it: Winter is coming - Getting heat into an M491 with a 3.6

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by Tremelune

89 ft-lbs sounds very high to me..but...the exact torque won't matter for two reasons:

1) You won't be able to get a torque wrench on them all.

2) The factory manual I have says something like "If you notice any leaks, tighten the nut."

Do use a healthy amount of anti-seize.

Prior to 89 ft/lbs it would leak at the seal. :-/

[KTL]

Need to be cautious tightening the collar nut. The seal is accomplished by pressing the male spherical ball of the oil line into the female spherical adapter. If you crank on the nut too hard, you can distort the spherical mating surfaces and then no amount of tightening will stop it from leaking.

Those oil line nuts should be snug and then a tad more just for good measure. No gorilla strength required to torque them!

[Speed Buggy]

Star torque...torque it till you see stars..this is a joke.

[yelcab1]

Originally Posted by KTL

...If you crank on the nut too hard, you can distort the spherical mating surfaces and then no amount of tightening will stop it from leaking.

..

Wisdom to live by.

[Walt Fricke]

It is not necessary to torque every fastener to some specific value. These fit this paradigm.

The ones where this can be critical are things like head studs and rod bolts or case through bolts - these are subject to reciprocating loads, and the torque needs to be adequate to keep the mating surfaces in contact at all times. If the load on a fastener is 50 lbs, the torque needs to be at least that much (i.e., the fastener is stretched so it acts like a spring with a clamping pressure of at least that much).

Oil lines and the like are not subject to these kinds of loads. Neither are valve covers, drain plugs, lots of fasteners here and there. Variation in torque is less important with these.

[DRACO A5OG]

Well after the 6th time it looks like I got that horrid 36MM nut tight as not to weap oil. 200 miles later still dry to the touch It was just so annoying.

So it appears I have zero leaks now. Just have to address the leaks at the heads to the block #3 & #4 after Cam Timing verification and possible adjustment. PO engine builder was a hack.

[porschetub]

That is really tight ,I feel safe saying damage will be done,Walt sums it up 100%,I have a lot of experience with very high pressure hydraulics and anything with a sealing taper (nut and feral) that is overtorqued will never reseal again,the compression nut will stretch on the thread and its all over.
I have seen many off these nuts split in half under severe relief pressure due to overtightening,we are talking mainly 38mm and 55mm (hex size) but in reality they just aren't that thick in the wall.
As mentioned tighten firmly (not tight),you can always take up another 1/8 or 1/4 turn to seal a weep.
Oil tank fitting are the ones to be really careful with also...not much holding then in the tank afterall,the case and cooler also require good support using these large spanners (wrenches)
I most cases theres no going back when not done correctly.

[DRACO A5OG]

I felt the same way about over tightening the 36MM nut at the adapter but was really surprised that the adapter required 89 ft/lbs.

I have a 36MM crows foot for my 1/2" torque wrench but did not want to over do it.

[Ayles]

I always thought a crows foot would not accurately torque.

Great topic though since i am installing the adapter and back dated oil lines in the next few days.

[Tremelune]

If I were gonna do it again, I'd try and find away to adapt standard fittings and hoses instead of using proprietary Porsche/Elephant stuff that is perpetually difficult to work with. That said, this isn't stuff you need to monkey with often...and that thermostat...sigh.

The crows foot can torque accurate if you do the math correctly (length increase, offset, etc). It's just hard to do much of anything accurately with these hoses. There's just very little room, even with special tools.

[DRACO A5OG]

All I know is I am an expert heat exchanger remover :-), thank goodness for cheater bars for the 36MM nuts and two 1/4" swivel extensions for the loverly 13MM header nuts