Post your ITB Setup

[winders]

Originally Posted by fanaudical

I don't think that's a requirement.

The MSD coil documentation says this:

“ It is recommended to mount the PN 8202, PN 82023 and 8223 coils in an upright position. The High Vibration Coil, PN 8222, can be mounted in any position due to its epoxy potting compound.”

Go ahead and mount them as shown in the photo Nux posted. They’ll run great until they don’t and they will live a much shorter life. They may even leak oil or burn up a little.

[Peter M]

Originally Posted by Charlie V

With the SSIs I had on the 3.0 and a Dansk sport muffler - 2 in/1 out.

Goal was mid and upper improvements. Turn3 worked their magic.

Charlie,
Can you explain how there can be a 42hp difference between corrected and uncorrected readings please? Is your dyno at 4000 feet elevation?

[Nux]

Originally Posted by winders

Or do I need to be a professional engine builder/coil installer with years and years of experience to point this out? That's seems to be the requirement around here these days.....

haha no - they are allready repositioned. I wasn't aware of this issue until last year (picture is from last year). Now they're upright!

[nathanbs]

Originally Posted by fanaudical

I don't think that's a requirement.

Not related to ITB's, but when I got my '75 it had an oil-filled Bosch coil mounted upside down as those are. I believe it came from the factory that way. I know it was oil-filled because it was leaking...

You would think that after you wrote “because it was leaking....” it would have perhaps all made sense and you would have not pressed “Submit Reply”

[Jonny042]

Originally Posted by Charlie V

With the SSIs I had on the 3.0 and a Dansk sport muffler - 2 in/1 out.

Goal was mid and upper improvements. Turn3 worked their magic.




Will retune this year - now with M&K 2 in/1 out with a GT3 style outlets that can be capped. The GT3 outlets is basically wide open and far too noisy. I will add some basic baffles to the 2 outlets this winter - test my metal fabrication skills.

Holy cow - can you tell us the ITB bore, port sizes, and camshafts?

[Jonny042]

Originally Posted by Peter M

Charlie,
Can you explain how there can be a 42hp difference between corrected and uncorrected readings please? Is your dyno at 4000 feet elevation?

It says 345 FWHP (Flywheel HP) so that's generally obtained by calculation based on the measured (at the wheels) horsepower. Usually assumed to be 15% as far as I know. So that jives with the numbers shown.

Probably to be taken with a grain of salt, like all dyno numbers. Not to say that's not a healthy motor, but 107hp/litre through SSI's and a muffler is a bit optimistic, especially given the RPM's at peak are pretty low.

[sbrown.nw]

Those numbers look really high. Al from x-faktory did a 3.2 with a very similar setup (not dual plug and US compression but did ahve SSIs and Dansk 2 in / 1 out mufler, earlier in this thread) and a very generous dyno did not show uncorrected numbers as high as this.

I am next in line for one of Al's kits to go on my 3.2 with euro compression, SSIs and Dansk 2 in / 1 out.

Originally Posted by Charlie V

With the SSIs I had on the 3.0 and a Dansk sport muffler - 2 in/1 out.

Goal was mid and upper improvements. Turn3 worked their magic.




Will retune this year - now with M&K 2 in/1 out with a GT3 style outlets that can be capped. The GT3 outlets is basically wide open and far too noisy. I will add some basic baffles to the 2 outlets this winter - test my metal fabrication skills.

[sbrown.nw]

Another follow-up set of questions. Did you do the below dyno in 4th gear? Would be interesting to see your graph on another dyno, do you have plans to try it on another one? Is this one known to be (very) gracious in its readings? It is so expensive to get 100 hp / liter out of our 3.0 / 3.2 engines...

Originally Posted by Charlie V

With the SSIs I had on the 3.0 and a Dansk sport muffler - 2 in/1 out.

Goal was mid and upper improvements. Turn3 worked their magic.




Will retune this year - now with M&K 2 in/1 out with a GT3 style outlets that can be capped. The GT3 outlets is basically wide open and far too noisy. I will add some basic baffles to the 2 outlets this winter - test my metal fabrication skills.

[antares]

Don't wanna be a debbie downer here but geese wiz what with 2300 for the throttle bodies another 4500 for the plug n play electronics ... Plus COP, Cranky Fire setup, machine shop head work, tear down for cam regrind or new install ... P/C's and Barrels ... etc -

I mean why not just go out and get a 3.6, get an adaptor/clutch kit and try a plug and play with that setup ... instant 280 hp stock and no dyno needed. Without cam and dual plug, high compression your ITB setup is still looking at around 5500 just for the ITB's and Brains alone and you only get a bump up of about 200 +/-10 hp rear wheel if truth be told IF your lucky and have a leaky sport muffler. Yeah @sbrown It sure is tough and silly E$pensive going this ITB route for such ridiculous and laughable returns for that kinda out lay.

[shamrok]

Link to piles of affordable 3.6s plsthx

[jimtweet]

1984 full build for customer. Waiting on some small stuff and hopefully fire up this week

[LeftCoastErik]

Said it before, saying it again. Flywheel HP is USELESS. Unless the numbers were generated on an engine dyno and even then it isn't reality. I never understand people running cars on a chassis dyno and then extrapolating flywheel HP. I guess it gives a better number for feeding people's egos, but come on man...Tell us what is the uncorrected RWHP that the setup generated? What kind of dyno was it on also...Mustang dynos are easy to fudge because you have to input a bunch of variables and that give you lots of ways to inflate...DynoJets are the industry standards (IMO) and are generally pretty consistent from machine to machine.

[antares]

@shamrock ... there are engines out there ... yes u have to go on a safari and hunt them down. Many avenues to approach this pathway. Mechanics, Insurance Co's, Yards, Engine builders etc. Affordable ? Yes subjective and yet I addressed some of the expenses involved with attempting to max out a 3.0 to the point u might as well just go on a 3.6 safari hunt. You are never gonna get anything with a 3.0-3.2 that even approaches a stock 3.6 without basically re-inventing the old platform. Yeah got to admit, you get a neat sound from the ITB's, credit card bragging rights and wine cork sniffing providence rights from your man cave but ya not gonna get 300 hp cause after all speed is like a line of coke. The more you have the more you want. - uncle dave

[fanaudical]

Originally Posted by nathanbs

You would think that after you wrote “because it was leaking....” it would have perhaps all made sense and you would have not pressed “Submit Reply”

My apologies to both Winders and Nathanbs - I wrote hasty a hasty nebulous reply without appropriate explanation.

The "...not a requirement..." comment was meant to state that I don't think you need to be a professional engine builder to be taken seriously here.

Regarding the coil leaking: My '75 arrived to me with a stock Bosch coil mounted with the output terminal pointed down. It was leaking from the other end of the coil (bottom of the coil but also the highest point as it was mounted upside down) where it contacted the AC coil mounted on the engine deck lid. Vibration wore through both the AC coil and the ignition coil case. My ignition coil was leaking oil, but not from where the can got crimped around the insulator.

[nathanbs]

Originally Posted by fanaudical

My apologies to both Winders and Nathanbs - I wrote hasty a hasty nebulous reply without appropriate explanation.

The "...not a requirement..." comment was meant to state that I don't think you need to be a professional engine builder to be taken seriously here.

Regarding the coil leaking: My '75 arrived to me with a stock Bosch coil mounted with the output terminal pointed down. It was leaking from the other end of the coil (bottom of the coil but also the highest point as it was mounted upside down) where it contacted the AC coil mounted on the engine deck lid. Vibration wore through both the AC coil and the ignition coil case. My ignition coil was leaking oil, but not from where the can got crimped around the insulator.

No need to apologize and if it was leaking from the top which was really the bottom then my comment does not apply.

[plexiform]

Rasant Products - 3.6L

[panzerfaust]

Originally Posted by plexiform

Rasant Products - 3.6L

a beauty there. what type of power you expect over the standard intake with the itb's on a 3.6? any other mods to the motor?

[plexiform]

Originally Posted by panzerfaust

a beauty there. what type of power you expect over the standard intake with the itb's on a 3.6? any other mods to the motor?

Dyno'd at 301rwhp. Motec engine management, B+B exhaust, Engine freshly rebuilt to stock spec. I was surprised to see that high but thats the report I got from a reputable shop. Car weighs just under 2400 pounds so it feels really quick.

[sbrown.nw]

How did your car turn out?

Originally Posted by BLACK3.2

My 964 is with Al right now having a Rasant ITB kit installed. We in the Seattle area are lucky he’s so close.

My car actually has a close ratio gearbox. We’ll see how it behaves with more power. I’m expecting it to be just more of what it currently is, which is a high revving canyon carver. Maybe a bit more mid range. If I’m rowing through the gears faster, well that’s the idea!

[BLACK3.2]

Originally Posted by sbrown.nw

How did your car turn out?

It turned out great. It has an RS cam and 3.8 build 7K miles ago from a previous owner, as well as close ratio gearbox and LSD, but stock exhaust (except with secondary muffler delete) and stock intake. Al installed the Rasant ITB kit along with headers and a valved Ti 991 GT3 center exit muffler. Overall it is MUCH smoother than before. The ITBs can clearly handle much more cam. It went from feeling like an old school race car to more like the stock GT3s I’ve driven.

The car is quieter at idle and cruise. The exhaust note is higher pitched. It roars when you add throttle/load and the valves open.

The car has really come alive in the mid range and up. The part throttle response is incredible. I felt it most often when weaving between cars on the freeway, but tbh I haven't driven it that much because the rear bumper is still off. It goes to the body shop in two weeks for the rear bumper to be modified to accommodate the new center exit exhaust.

As to intake sound, I think the GT3 plenum mutes that considerably. I do get some brilliant new intake notes when I come off throttle. If you want intake sound then suggest you go with trumpets.