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I'd sell mine too if I could get $400,000
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Old 03-05-2017, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
Hey Duane, thanks for the great leads!

I've just searched for the Talbot mirrors and they're perfect! I too was thinking of just deleting the passenger side. As for the engine, I just surfed over to the Supertec site after reading a few threads and the 2.8SS looks like it would be pretty cool with 300hp Jeez. You say the 3.2SS? I guess with the 3.2 it would be more turn key satisfaction and daily driveability though??

Trying to search the forum for KW Coilover but for some reason I can't get the site to respond. I'm behind "The Great Firewall of China" at the moment so it's likely something to do with that. Not sure how low I'll go yet with the suspension. I was lusting over all the stuff at the Elephant Racing site but that stuff will blow my budget. BTW, my engine budget was around $25k. I have a feeling I'll blow through that though.

Anyway- you've given me a lot to dig through so I'll get back to it. Thanks again for the leads and suggestions. It's given me more confidence in what I've been thinking so far.
Found a recent thread here on the KW setups. KW going to offer suspension parts for pre 89 cars

Did you get a front cooler with your car? Why not rebuild your 2.7? You said it was a Texas car, so it's a 76 US 2.7? For suspension, you could run stock with all new rubber pieces/bushings and new strut inserts and rear shocks. That would make it a driver without killing the wallet. Since you still have paint, interior, glass seals (get the Porsche ones only) etc etc. Stuff is going to add up very quickly.

Also I like the idea of the 73 single mirror(74 and 75 had them too) which is the one I run on drivers side only like the original setup. It's a mirror that you can actually see out of. The talbots are cool but a much smaller mirror.
(not my car, but a longhood with the mirror in question)

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Old 03-05-2017, 12:15 PM
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Todd
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elombard View Post
AC in BC? why go to the hassle. Never gets that hot and humid.

Thats going to be an awesome RSR look.

I would not bother with the manual window conversion - minimal weight savings,.

For mirrors what about just 73 silver flag mirrors? Repros are affordable and they are very light weight (I think they are aluminum). You can go drivers side only for a minimalist look.

On an RSR bodied car I feel like you have to bring the HP if you are going to have the look.

So hot rod 3.0 absolute minimum probably a 3.2 or a 3.6 and be done!
Hey Erik, thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I agree about the power and the flares. I was originally going to get a larger displacement engine and just keep it stock for the reliability, but now I'm thinking a hot rod gnarly sounding smaller displacement engine might be more fun.

The silver flag mirror does look good! Though the Talbot is a quality mirror with plenty of style and class, it does remind me a bit of my TR6 from years ago (and those aren't fond memories

I'm still pretty set on hand cranked windows. Something in me loves the simplicity and "minimalist" aspect. Any idea of the conversion? I suppose new regulators- but is anything else required? I guess the hand cranked mechanism will just bolt in??

Oh! One more question; rear deck lid. Duck tail? Again, I'm a lover of the smooth lines of the car without the tail, but what do you guys think? I'm so on the fence with this one that I was thinking of getting a lid with the duck tail and the smooth one painted and just changing them out as my mood changed...

Thanks for your thoughts Erik! I appreciate your feedback and advice.
Old 03-05-2017, 03:45 PM
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Duane-

Yes, I bought the oil cooler and lines and the mounts are getting welded in now. Its the inside fender cooler for the 3.2. Yes, my 2.7 was a US car 2.7 but the case was rotted through the bottom and someone filled the giant hole with PRC. That 2.7 rebuild bridge was burned though when I parted out the rest of the stuff...

I'll read up the KW stuff...thanks!

I was planning exactly what you suggest by just going with the stock suspension, but after pulling out my rear sway bar bushings and seeing how they had deteriorated, do you think it's worthwhile doing some sort of upgrade there? I guess the factory ones would be a good blend of comfort and performance and lets face it- I'll likely not notice the difference in performance but I would probably notice the difference in comfort Is that a fair statement? I gotta come clean- I've never driven this car, and I've only driven a 911 once for about 5 minutes and I hardly had a chance to get a feel for it so I really have to go off of the advice from you guys.

Note taken about the body rubber. OEM stuff only.

Todd
Old 03-05-2017, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
I've sifted through many threads pulling a reasonable amount of information about my project. Now that it's time to "pull the trigger" on many of these decisions, I'd like to get some feedback on the following questions to confirm what I've learned as a double check. I'm interested in your (anyone) thoughts on the following:

1. My car came with power windows. I'm thinking of going manual hand cranked regulators. I kinda like to keep things as simple and straight forward as possible. Is this a bad move?

2. My car came with power mirrors that I discovered when I removed them weigh about as much as a small Honda Civic. Of course I'd love the glass mounted mirrors that the Singer has, however I'm guessing those aren't available. My second choice; some sleek looking ones I saw on an Angus Walker car. I'm having the original holes welded over so that I can do whatever I want, however I'd prefer to cut new holes now before paint so that everything gets sealed up. Thoughts?

3. What engine should I put in this thing?? It came with a 2.7 but it was trashed. Not really interested in carbs so I'm thinking 3.0 or bigger...

4. What's up with the front sway bar? There wasn't one from the factory but I can see the punch holes in the body. Is this a worthwhile item to install?

5. The rear sway bar mounts seem to be ground off. Not sure why???

6.What do you guys think of when it comes to painting the engine compartment, underside etc the same as the body colour? Thoughts? At the moment I'm leaning towards body colour...

7. Sound deadener? Is it worth the weight? Dynamat?

8. Air Conditioning. Hmmm. My minimalist side wants to ditch this, but after that last election I doubt the summers are going to get any cooler... Any advice on AC? What are my options in a project like this?

9. Aside from the oil cooler lines and mounting hardware (I've done this already), is there any other sheetmetal or tin work that needs to be done before paint on a backdate project like this?

To anyone who takes the time to respond: I sincerely thank you for your time.
I am always asking questions and not contributing enough. I am not a historian, so you will need to read and find the information yourself. There may be some inaccurate facts, but I have tried be accurate - that said, please correct me if anyone knows differently - as I would like to know.


Cost and Originality are factors - as is comfort. Originality, or to make a clone, is very expensive. Here is your list;

1. It will reduce the weight - and closer to being a 73 RSR. Loss of convenience, especially passenger side.

2. Mirrors may need to be more practical than the original style for street driving (of which, I do not think that they used a right side mirror).
Here is some info;

RSR Mirrors - anyone have detailed pictures and/or brand info?

3. This could be determined by cost and practicality.The 3.0 is fairly easy to find. The 2.7 is expensive to rebuild. A 2.8 producing around 280 hp, at 8000rpm would be the correct displacement/motor. The high butterfly system looks amazing, the cost is even more amazing!

info;

ST / RSR Engine Photos Photo Gallery by slidevalve911rsr at pbase.com

1973 Porsche 911 RSR High-Butterfly MFI (2.8 Liter) Photo Gallery by slidevalve911rsr at pbase.com

4. This a through body sway bar. It may be a preferred sway bar. You will need to weld a U tab to the front A arms. Also, the hole will be marked on you tub - they will be drilled out to the size of your sway bar. It is an easy process. I believe the original RSR had these (20mm front, 22 mm rear).

5. Most likely the PO was replacing broken mounts. These cars are well known for broken rear sway bar mounts. Wevo is a common replacement that is very strong and will need to be welded on.

6. I believe that the engine compartment was painted in body colour staring in 1973, it also may of had the rear shock towers reinforced. There would have been some other gusset welding. I not sure that the original 73 RSR had coil overs when delivered. Here is the Brumos car suspension as taken from Pbase.com; Shock absorbers Bilstein Stabilizer bars : 20mm in front and 22mm in rear Torsion bars, 22mm in front and 26mm in back

7. It could be very loud without it. My car will not have it.

8. It would be a reduction in weight. Loss of comfort.

9. The RSR rear shock mount reinforcement. If you are not going to use coil overs it may be redundant. The front RSR strut brace is welded in.

Need Pics of RSR rear shock reinforcements

I have added a 10.

Wheels were originally 15x9 and 15x11, front offset of +3, rear offset of -27. They look amazing, however rubber is very limited. Pirelli may still make some tires, Michelin TB's will work as well. Braid makes a nice replica set of wheels (their front wheels have an offset of -3). They are semi forged. Jongbloed makes a forged set as well.

Braid makes a 17 inch RSR style Fuchs wheel.

Brakes - 917 calipers, the 930 calipers look similar and fit under 15 inch wheels.


https://www.zuffenhaus.us/product/2-8rsr-brake-kit/
Old 03-06-2017, 05:47 AM
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A 2.8 would be sweet but you have to really twist it to get the power. the larger torquier motors are super fun on the street and still great everywhere else.
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:14 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #26 (permalink)
 
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First and foremost—you've never driven the car. Be real, real careful where you put money before you have a baseline comparison. Many of the decisions you make should greatly incorporate the roads you drive on, climate you live in, and style of driving. Right now your goal is finishing so that you have a safe, drivable car. You want to avoid repeating work, of course, but once you have some seat time through a few seasons and have a good sense of how the car spends its life, your priorities will change significantly. Don't cut corners, but get the thing together cheaply so you have a bit to optimize later in the areas that matter most to you.

I personally would throw originality and "correctness" out the window. They're only original once, this isn't a real RSR, and everything else is just numbers on a page. I would build the car to look the way I want and behave the way I want. Originality and correctness come with a cost that could better be put towards superior components.

People will throw out all kinds of suspension options. I would do the cheapest thing first (whatever is currently on there if it's reasonable, plus fresh wear items), put a few thousand miles on the car, make changes if necessary. These cars handle very well stock, and it won't feel any softer than that when you're done unless the car is heavier than when it came out of the factory.

A note on wheels: Some prefer the look of 15s. I do not. My car wears 17s because of the massive improvement in tire availability for wheels 9" wide and up. To me, tire choice now and moving forward took precedence, and a lot of 17s look good. Really, just get a cheap set of used wheels and tires and drive the car for a while.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
1. My car came with power windows. I'm thinking of going manual hand cranked regulators.
I've been thinking about this. What if you want to crack both windows while driving? In my mind, I never mess with the windows, but in reality, I've noticed I do it fairly often. I've thought about manual windows for the driver's side only, but the imbalance bothers me. Power windows are real convenient, though I would opt to rewire and use standard (and more robust) switches over the weird, fragile Porsche switches.

The weight of power windows is between the axles. Does anyone know how much would actually be saved by going manual? I can't imagine many people have gone manual and kept the same door card to form a valid comparison.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
2. My car came with power mirrors...Thoughts?
The passenger mirror is extremely handy when you're not on a single-lane road. I also prefer the visual symmetry to having a mirror on one side. Weight savings is minimal. It would be much easier to go from 1 to 2 mirrors than from 2 to 1 in the future.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
3. What engine should I put in this thing??
This is a whole thread unto itself. What are your goals for the car? Screaming horsepower at 8000rpm is exhilarating, but torque around 3,000rpm is where I spend 80% of my time. I would optimize for the majority, not the exception. People buy horsepower but drive torque. Around town, low-end torque is king.

A boring suggestion: Get the 2.7 you have freshened up and running well and start there. It probably won't be much harder to install a different engine once the car is all together, and you probably won't lose money on resale for the work put into getting it sorted.

1) 3.6, 3.8 - $30k minimum, but as good as it gets from a Porsche motor. Add thousands for a sweet EFI/ITB setup.

2) 3.2 - Not crazy expensive, very reliable, have good torque stock, and can be made to put out quite a bit by adding money.

3) 2.7, 2.8, 3.0 - Sure, but why bother when the 3.2 drops in just as easily? I think weight is fairly comparable.

4) LS - More power bone stock than any Porsche motor with comparable weight. Probably cheaper than every other option, including installation. The downside is cutting the front tub for a radiator, but this isn't exactly a barn-find original.

5) Something crazy. Throw a 996tt motor in. They're cheaper than 3.6s, and maybe you could use the newer transmission, too...but I digress...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
4. What's up with the front sway bar? Is this a worthwhile item to install?
I pulled mine off because they were mismatched after I made torsion bar changes. You would be fine running nothing for a while. You probably wouldn't go wrong running a stock setup either. Go the cheap route until you know how the car behaves.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
5. The rear sway bar mounts seem to be ground off. Not sure why???
They were probably too stiff for the springs and sheered. This happens. You can weld in better reinforced mounts. You can run without rear sways.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
6.What do you guys think of when it comes to painting the engine compartment, underside etc the same as the body colour?
Painting the hidden spots in cars is the safe bet, though I've never been bothered by a different color engine bay. Indeed, in a perfect world, my car would have a dark exterior and a bright red engine bay, frunk, and door jams. It just adds flair, like a charcoal suit with a wild liner.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
7. Sound deadener? Is it worth the weight? Dynamat?
How much time will you spend above 60mph? Road noise is unpleasant, and increases substantially as you increase speed. Fatigue comes quicker, conversations become more annoying, music loses clarity, and the motor noise gets washed out. Most of the weight of sound deadening material is on the floor between the axles, right where you'd want it.

Quick/cheap way is to lay down CLD tiles at 25-50% coverage and call it a day. The most effective way is by using three layers of CLD, CCF, and MLV. If I were you, I wouldn't even install carpets until I got some real seat time in a running, driving car. I'm still in the middle of doing mine:

Interior sound deadening, noise reduction, and thermal insulation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
8. Air Conditioning.
In short, add it later if desired. The Griffiths system is Texas-capable, the new Electrocool looks promising in terms of weight and simplicity for increasing the number of 911-drivable days per year. Both are $3-5k installed.

Crazy thought: ventilated 997 seats are the same price as classic 911 seats, and I've read they're great for taking the edge off from the heat. Might work well in tandem with that Electrocool setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
9. is there any other sheetmetal or tin work that needs to be done before paint on a backdate project like this?
Reinforce the shock towers in case you want to install coilers in the future.

Hopefully you've read up on some of the other builds around here. I'm about to embark on a similar (though less ambitious) project. Always good to see who runs into what issues.
Old 03-07-2017, 10:09 AM
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Todd
 
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Thanks to all of you for the sage advice! The car has been held up waiting for a repair to the rear right corner that we discovered, and he had to cut the roof pillar on the front left to get everything perfectly straight (another earlier repair in the car's previous life). It took an extra 8 months to get this work done but I wanted the bones of the car to be correct. Now it's "full speed ahead".

I'm going with the 3.2 with all the benefits that go along with the later tech.

As Tremlune suggested, I had him reinforce the shock towers and I'm going with coil overs everywhere.

Brakes will be from a 996 using the adapters.

Still deciding on interior stuff but I will go with hand crank windows and flat door panes with a pull handle.

Some more questions for your input;

1. What do you guys think of putting a small battery from Rennline in the smuggler's box? I like the idea of using that space and freeing up some other space in the front, but I'm worried about cutting down my AC options with the electric AC option that I think went in the smuggler's box.

2. I'm going with the centre fill fuel tank and going to enlarge it. Just thinking though about rain water pouring through the hole?? I never thought of this when I made the decision to blank out the fender filler... maybe I'll just not cut the hole and have to open the hood to fill up the tank.

3. Anyone know about the steering column options? I see lots of the cars have some rubber boot or something between the wheel and the dash. My 76 column came with the turn signal assembly but I like that rubber boot and minimalist looking column. Does that accommodate turn signals or was it just a track thing?

OK- enough for now. Thanks again for your advice!

T
Old 09-12-2017, 06:16 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elombard View Post
AC in BC? why go to the hassle. Never gets that hot and humid.

Thats going to be an awesome RSR look.

I would not bother with the manual window conversion - minimal weight savings,.

For mirrors what about just 73 silver flag mirrors? Repros are affordable and they are very light weight (I think they are aluminum). You can go drivers side only for a minimalist look.

On an RSR bodied car I feel like you have to bring the HP if you are going to have the look.

So hot rod 3.0 absolute minimum probably a 3.2 or a 3.6 and be done!

Re AC in BC - You're right 'if' you don't live in the Okanagan Valley -aka- Kelowna where 90 -100 degree F is a normal summer day temp... No humiity, just dry and hot
https://www.tourismkelowna.com/do/lake/
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Old 09-13-2017, 02:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
I'm going with the 3.2 with all the benefits that go along with the later tech.
good, wont regret. you can ubgrade it to a 3,4 later on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
I had him reinforce the shock towers and I'm going with coil overs everywhere.
reinforce the front towers as well (in case it was not yet envisaged)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
Brakes will be from a 996 using the adapters.
if you havent baught them yet, save the money and go with easy to fit stock carrera brakes. they do the job.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
1. What do you guys think of putting a small battery from Rennline in the smuggler's box? I like the idea of using that space and freeing up some other space in the front, but I'm worried about cutting down my AC options with the electric AC option that I think went in the smuggler's box.
why not? if your keen on it, go ahead. do you need an AC? If yes, just find a smaller battery for the regular position.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
2. I'm going with the centre fill fuel tank and going to enlarge it. Just thinking though about rain water pouring through the hole?? I never thought of this when I made the decision to blank out the fender filler...
they have drain in case of overfill and rain/water

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd1 View Post
3. Anyone know about the steering column options? I see lots of the cars have some rubber boot or something between the wheel and the dash. My 76 column came with the turn signal assembly but I like that rubber boot and minimalist looking column. Does that accommodate turn signals or was it just a track thing?
that'd be the rubber wrapped hubs of e.g. a Momo. turn signal assembly stays in place.
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Old 09-13-2017, 02:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A horse with no name View Post
Re AC in BC - You're right 'if' you don't live in the Okanagan Valley -aka- Kelowna where 90 -100 degree F is a normal summer day temp... No humiity, just dry and hot
https://www.tourismkelowna.com/do/lake/
Your right, I grew up in Seattle and was assuming he was in the Vancouver area. I would never add AC in Seattle and would probably remove it from almost any car :-)

Especially after living in Atlanta for the last 20+ years.

Also, what wheels are you planning on using? I think you have to run 17" wheels with the 996 kits? If you want to run 15" have to stick with the Carrera, Turbo, or Wilwood (I think?) is making a kit now similar rotor to the Turbo.
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73 911t 3.0SC Hot rod Gulf Blue - Sold.
Old 09-13-2017, 04:09 AM
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Thumbs up A Killer 911

Welcome Todd!.. It's nice to see another Classic 911 owner!

Re a couple of your queries...Opinion only; I personally would suggest that you go with the electric windows... As in any car, we have come a long ways since manual windows... With 'sports seats,' with your seat belt on, you'll find it near impossible to reach across to the passengers side to manually roll the window up or down... Same goes for electric heated mirrors...In any heavy traffic, such as you can experience from Kelowna to West Kelowna, or any heavy multilane hwys, electric mirrors often come in very handy.

Being that your not going the 'all stock route,' are you aware that there are many 911's with a small block Chevy's in them?...They are lighter than a stock 3.0 and 3.2, they are relativley easy to install, they cost about half the price of a used 3.2, extremely inexpensive to maintain, there are bell housing kits, including all other necessary 'bits and pieces' that are readily available, and most important... they go like stink!!

The fellow who owns the 930 in the video used to be a street rodder... I've personally spoke to him about his installs... 'Larry' is from North Carolina, and his 930 has a small block LS7 (427 cid-505 hp) Chevy in it, and his other 911 (narrow body) has a small block LS6 Chevy (346 cid-385 hp.) in it...Due to the engine work that he had done on the LS7, it puts out 705 dyno'd hp!!...He did everything himself; there is also a Pelican thread that he posted some years ago now, of the install, including showing his step by step procedures - It's very interesting!..

Maybe a BiG cam rumble in the Valley ay! Food for though eh!

https://youtu.be/NBF5HcXsiI4

LS3 Crate Engine - Race Engine | Chevrolet Performance

*Note: 'Larry' has reversed his intake to the rear firewall... You can see the air intakes for it on his R side windows...He has also mounted the ignition coils on the sides of the valve covers... The Rad is mounted on an angle in the 'frunk'...It's not the exhaust 'tone' that he would prefer, but even with the super set of custom built headers, they basically run straight into the muffler and then out, hense the 'tone'

BTW, the price noted in the link, as you know, is for a brand new LS3 crate motor... You can pickup a low milage used one for at least half the price of a new one...He runs the stock 4 speed 930 Turbo transmission, including the stock diff... The whole set up, as previously mentioned, is far less expensive than a used 3.2 in good condition.

Check these guys out... http://www.renegadehybrids.com/
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Last edited by A horse with no name; 09-14-2017 at 06:38 PM.. Reason: additional info
Old 09-13-2017, 04:11 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #32 (permalink)
 
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Thanks a lot to all of you for your valuable suggestions. I really appreciate getting your advice.

Interesting about the SB conversion and thanks for all the information. I had a 914 back when I was a teenager and I was very close to putting a 283 into it. In the end I decided to sell the car but I always wondered what that would have been like. The thing is- I've already pulled the trigger on the 3.2. It's being assembled right now- and I'm doing the 3.4 upgrade as well as a bunch of other things. It's costing a small fortune but what the hell. Aside from that- a very significant motivation for the project is the sound of the air cooled engine. I'm a sound junkie. I ride a Duc 1100S (air-cooled) Monster with open pipes and I just can't get enough of it.

I do call the Okanagan my home base now, but I don't really have a fixed address and I have no idea where I'll be living in the future. I'm not afraid of the heat so I think for now I'm going to go without the AC. I will however leave the smugglers box available for the electric version should I decide to do it in the future.

Power windows. Hmm- yeah, it's probably going to be a pain in the ass sometimes, but after putting a lot of thought into it, I think I'm going with the old hand crank style. My earliest childhood memories of driving around with my dad were in a 67 Camaro and a 57 Chev stepside, and I yearn for that simplicity. I hope I don't regret it:/

I'm going to go with the chrome flag mirrors. Simple, functional, and I think- classy looking.

Wheels. Haven't put much thought into it but I have lusted over the Magnus Walker 17" Urban Outlaw Black on matt Black ones. 9's on the front and 11's on the rear I guess.

Flojo- you mentioned reinforcing the front shock towers now that I'm going coil overs everywhere. I have seen the bracket on the Rennline site that is just some vertical pieces welded on the side of the shock towers with a adjustable bar between on some swivels. Is this all that is required for the coilover mod? Is there something that gets welded on top of the tower?

The rear coil over supports for the top of the shock towers- are they just the two triangular pieces that are welded on each side of the support in the engine compartment?

I'm going to take your advice about the smaller battery in the regular position and keeping the smuggler's box available for AC.

As for the Carrera brakes Vs the 996- I already made a commitment for the 996 brakes and I'm getting a smokin' deal on them otherwise I would take your advice. The car originally had Carerra brakes so I'll be selling those with the turned rotors after the project is complete.

Does anyone have any information on the rear engine cover with the lid that lifts up at speed? Is that a modified lid from a later car? I see it on several other back dates on Youtube but nobody seems to say much about them. I love the smooth lines of the car without the tail, but I have no doubt that those smooth lines create some lift at speed.

Next week the stripping of the paint inside and out begins....
Old 09-16-2017, 12:28 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #33 (permalink)
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Hi...The 1990-1-2-3 has the rear spoiler that auto lifts at around 50 mph... Once you drop 5 mph, it auto's to it's down posi...It's electrically operated.

PS - I fully understand your view point on 911 air cooled engines...We all love their sound, including the engine itself...My thoughts on putting a LS Chevy in it was due to the price point, including the power that comes with it... There's no question that a chipped 3.4 will make you grin from ear to ear!

'Happiness is a German windmill' eh! ��
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Last edited by A horse with no name; 09-16-2017 at 08:19 PM.. Reason: additional info
Old 09-16-2017, 02:02 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #34 (permalink)
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Pawling NY
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This is what Elephant sells for reinforcement on the rear shock towers:

https://www.elephantracing.com/porsche/911/chassis-reinforcement-for-911/#rear-coilover-crossmember-reinforcement-kit



The auto-lifting spoiler is from the later 964. I think the decklid just bolts on, but I would definitely research that.

I just happened to install a small battery in the stock location...Pretty straightforward:

Small/lightweight/race battery bracket options
Old 09-16-2017, 06:12 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #35 (permalink)
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