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Exclamation What is the Final Solution for Rough Shifting?

The PP tech article on how to improve shifting totally rules. See http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_shift_improve/914_shift_improve.htm

Beyond these improvements what else can be done to get the smoothest, tightest shifter possible?

I've been advised about the following aproaches:

1. Weltmeister Kit : Apparently PP sells a kit that centers the shifter and provides spring resistance when shifting into one of the two far-left, or far-right vertical gates (1st and reverse or forth and fifth). Olav writes up a cool description about how to install this bad boy on Rennlist. See http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=9;t=000407#000005.

2. Lock Out Plate: Others have suggested replacing the lock out plate, part number 901.424.017.00.

3. Shift Gates : In Excellence I see that you can buy all manner of shift gates or similar mechanisms for the 915 transmission. One such gate, I believe is sold by Robotech. Another is sold by, I think "Weva" or some company that starts with a "W." I've never seen one for the 901, but perhaps it is out there.

So my question is, in my quest to get my 901 to shift like my 1991 Honda (a man can dream, can't he?), will any or all of the above approaches work? Assuming my transmission does not need a rebuild, which I believe it does not, is there anything else I can do to get a smooth shifting 914?

Douglas
Old 01-16-2003, 02:47 PM
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1. I think the spring kit is overkill.
2. That can be very worthwhile, particularly if yours is worn. Also check the gear shift lever where it rides against this. Sleeving a worn lever might work, or welding up the old one and having it ground round again.
3. I don't know of anyone who makes something like the Wevo 915 gate-shift setup for the 901.

A properly-installed short-shift kit should make all the motions shorter--including the slop. But it won't cure the slop.

I don't think there's any way to get a 914 to shift like a modern Honda or Miata, really. There's just too much linkage and too many joints there. But you can certainly improve on worn 30-year-old components!!

--DD
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Old 01-16-2003, 03:19 PM
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I have both street and race 914s and I use the Weltmeister spring kit in both and it makes the 1st->2nd shift a lot safer. There is a Wevo type kit for the 914s made by FABCAR and I think it is around $1000 or so and as far as I know the only cars using it have aftermarket transmissions such as Fortin. The best advice is: Make sure the tranny is rebuilt properly and tight as a drum; And also make sure there is absolutelt NO slop in any of the bushings. The rear one tends to be loose right out of the box and we use wire ties (3 or 4) looped around the bushing and housing to take up any slop. When in gear, the shift knob should only have 1/2 inch or less of movement! Good luck.
Old 01-16-2003, 03:36 PM
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I've never understood why people complain so much about the feel of the 914's shifter. Sure the tranny's synchros are well worn in my car, but the shifter itself moves quite nicely and as far as I can tell it's completely stock. The 1-2 upshift in my car is great, just move the lever straight up and the spring pulls (or pushes, I'm not sure which) the lever right over into 2nd. Never missed second, and the 914 was my first car with a standard transmission. Overall the shift mechanism in my 914 isn't terribly looser than the mechanism in my 924S, though I'll grant that the 924S has more miles on it. Only problem I've ever had with the 914's tranny (aside from the synchros) was brain fade on my part. After getting out of the 924S, I got in the 914 and promptly put it in reverse at the first stop light. Scared the heck out of me when I tried to take off.

Aaron
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Old 01-16-2003, 04:16 PM
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I've heard of people replacing the plastic bearings in the center tunnel with brass bearings, then cutting 3 inches out of the shift rod and re-welding it.
Old 01-16-2003, 04:34 PM
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Fabcar 935 style shifter

Smart-racing sells the "Fabcar 935 style shifter" for $950. Looks like it's for the serious track car, not for the street use. Because it looks like the shifting rod is mounted out of the center tunnel on the shifter housing and then angles down to the rear bulkhead. I guess you have to cut some of the center tunnel to make the shift rod fit. I guess that's the modifacation needed to make it fit a 914. Plus it has a 1st & reverse lockout which would a pain on the street to use.



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Old 01-16-2003, 06:33 PM
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If you have a side shift unit - check all the bushing and replace. Plus rebuld the shift itself. There are 2 bushing and a spring that most people never touch and that cause a lot of the problem.

Tailshift unit - it will NEVER shift like a honda. The internal design is crummy and it is componded by long linkages.

In fact, we will never have a car which will shift like a honda. When the tranny is directly under the shift and there are basically no linkages, how can you compete?

Hopefully someone can answer this: How does the 1971 and earlier 911 shift? Internally, it's the same as the tail shift unit. There are lots less external links, but internally, it is still the same shift finger setup. I cannot imagine all of the slop is external on the tailshifter 901.

James
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Old 01-17-2003, 08:07 AM
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You could find out if Tischer's 914 Cable Shifter (for 901 tail-shifters, though) is ready for Prime Time.

Maybe he's perfected a side-shift solution; you never know ...

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Old 01-17-2003, 12:28 PM
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I have been with Andy Shriver in his 912 as an instructor on several occasions and he shifts slowly and carefully like I do. The tranny sounds just like mine (noisy) and the biggest advantage is the lack of long rod that runs to the back of the car. I also noted that in a lot of street driving, he starts off in 2nd gear so he does not have to do the 1->2 shift. Now for someone that shifts very fast with a 901 tranny, ride with Herb Meeder some time as he shifts like a drag racer!
Old 01-17-2003, 04:55 PM
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What is the final solution for rough shifting?
Fresh bushings all around and practice, practice practice!
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Old 01-17-2003, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by red-beard
Hopefully someone can answer this: How does the 1971 and earlier 911 shift? Internally, it's the same as the tail shift unit. There are lots less external links, but internally, it is still the same shift finger setup. I cannot imagine all of the slop is external on the tailshifter 901.
Significantly tighter and more 'positive' than even the best 914. The shift linkage is far shorter and simpler.
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Old 01-17-2003, 10:10 PM
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Hmmm. I just heard on one email list that Wevo may be starting to make stuff for the 901 gearbox like they've been doing for the 915. If true, that could be a Very Good Thing. (The post could be mistaken, though--the guy may have seen the 915 bits and thought they were 901.)

--DD
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Old 01-21-2003, 08:44 AM
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How much play is "normal" in the shift lever when the car is in gear (on a sideshift)? I'm getting like 3 inches each way (!!!) and I'm just starting to check out the linkages.
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Old 01-21-2003, 12:56 PM
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Not that much! Mine, when in pretty good shape, would move about half that much when in 2nd/3rd gear. Less in the "outer" gears. (The lever could only "slop" over to the edge of the pattern and no further.)

--DD
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Old 01-21-2003, 01:08 PM
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That's what I thought. I am suspecting the shift coupler but I'll have to check everything out.
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Old 01-21-2003, 01:28 PM
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Jeff -- just finished going thru the whole linkage on my side-shifter, and there is virtually no slop. The firewall bushing pops out sometimes (or falls apart) and can cause a huge amount of movement in the rod. The bushings at the trans end have a big impact too. My car has a bronze aftermarket bushing back there, which apparently are a tighter fit than the stock plastic/poly ones.
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Old 01-21-2003, 02:02 PM
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Correct replaced bushings and correct linkage angles....THEN the short shift kit. Nothing better...of course you can't shift the 914 like a rock crusher trans out of a muscle car.....but you would wait until the M/C got sideways and you tuck underneath and show him that nice rear end.....
Old 01-21-2003, 03:01 PM
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Apparently the little set ("cone") screws can wear out over time also, and they do not get as good a grip on the rod. The slightest bit of movement back a few feet down the linkage just gets amplified a ton by the time it reaches your hand.
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Old 01-21-2003, 03:48 PM
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the "final" solution in a tail shifter might be the little rolled pin that lives up behind the cover plate at the rear of the trans. if you have an ever changing shift pattern esp 1 or r and you have done every thing you can think of, check it out. get a gasket FIRST and drain the trans lube. probably time to change change it anyway. oops missed the f in shifter the first time.

kevin
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Last edited by Kevin Powers; 01-21-2003 at 05:46 PM..
Old 01-21-2003, 05:42 PM
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I had my '73 2.0 shifter adjusted at Callas Rennsport in Torrence CA.
They did GREAT job.
It is so tight and smooth now.
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Old 01-21-2003, 11:15 PM
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