the start of my LS1 conversion: - Page 4

Rebel911 · 01-23-2010, 03:09 AM

Thanks for the picture. I will have to arch the brace over.

mkingham · 01-24-2010, 08:57 AM

Hi Rebel911,
I have a solution that will allow you to keep your bracing. You could use a Harrop ITB intake. Rather than pulling the air from the (now) back of the engine, they pull from the top (in 8 places) Many people report that ITBs allow much greater cam profiles while maintaining a smooth idle as well as better throttle response.

But hold onto your wallet, they are very pricey.

Packy · Packy's Garage

Hello, I would like you ITBs please. Yes, do you take Visa or Gold Bullion?

Rebel911 · 01-24-2010, 01:17 PM

or this

Rebel911 · 04:09 AM

This might work also. looks like a better solution than RH's short radius 90.

* Weight: 5.3 LB
* Height: 6.5in.
* Width: 6.81in.
* Depth: 13.5in.

or
LOW AND ULTRA LOW INTAKE ELBOWS

Rebel911 · 01-27-2010, 05:04 AM

found a good fit

Rebel911 · 01-29-2010, 04:16 PM

just picked up the Porsche from

Dan did better than I could have imagined. He is going to brace the front and run through the firewall to the door bars before it is fully finished.

Rebel911 · 01-29-2010, 04:17 PM

Rebel911 · 03-27-2010, 01:35 PM

all that is left is to lift the car 30 inches and slide it in.

the 1st German part bolted onto the engine... and it didn't burst into flames...

Rebel911 · 03-28-2010, 02:29 PM

Kinda a ***** to get the engine with one person... but it's in.

PLEASE NOTE THIS IS JUST THE TEST FIT

The cage allowed for me to make a strap winch system to work the engine into the transmission evenly. nice and smooth.

Rebel911 · 03-28-2010, 02:30 PM

it still has to go up about 4 inches. I have a small clearance issue to take care of later when I am fresh and relaxed.

unclebilly · unclebilly's Garage

Here is a trick for installing / removing engines...

Put your car on your trailer and let the rear end hang off of the back of the trailer. You barely have to jack the car and it puts everything at a nice height for working on it.

Russian hat and forklift are optional.

mkingham · 03-29-2010, 06:03 AM

Congratulations on getting the engine in. For what it is worth, I put the engine and tranny in as a unit. I also had installed the headers before placing the engine. I had to 'trial fit' about three times before I got the brackets all lined up, by the third time, I had it down to a science. (3 floor jacks did the trick for me) Two under each control arm and one to position the nose of the tranny as I slid it under the car.

I'm still not sure how the intake is going to clear the brace between the shock mounts. Are you going to position the engine so the intake is above the brace?

Mike

Rebel911 · 03-29-2010, 11:37 AM

Right now my problem is the "f" brackets on the front of the engine. the water inlet and outlet.
they are going to hit the rear cross member.
I didn't pull the tranny out so that should be lined up right. engine is mounted right on the tranny but it is still hitting in the rear.

any ideas?

I am going to cut and re-weld the cross brace in-front of the throttle body.

lin7310948 · 03-29-2010, 12:20 PM

im with mike. i would install the motor and transmission as a unit and not try to leave the trans in place. my engine is a sbc with a shortbell 930 transaxle and i have no trouble with the install as far as the front to rear distance. i do not have a rear facing throttle body but that should be easy to correct. you might also do a search where forum members have modified the transaxle shifting opening to allow the motor and transaxle to be lifted straight up into place. good luck.

Rebel911 · 03-29-2010, 01:48 PM

will do thanks for the advise.

mkingham · 03-30-2010, 04:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rebel911

Right now my problem is the "f" brackets on the front of the engine. the water inlet and outlet.
they are going to hit the rear cross member.
I didn't pull the tranny out so that should be lined up right. engine is mounted right on the tranny but it is still hitting in the rear.
any ideas?

Hi Rebel911, how much space do you have between the block and the rear cross member? Can you upload a photo?

Rebel911 · 03-30-2010, 05:37 AM

Here are some pictures. any ideas?

Rebel911 · 03-30-2010, 05:39 AM

just looking at the second one again; i could possibly remove the 90's and put them back on after it is lifted up.
or even just take off the "f" bracket completely then put it back on.

lin7310948 · 03-30-2010, 07:34 AM

i am assuming that you have not mated the trans and the motor in this last picture. i believe that i would remove the transaxle and and install on the motor and then install as a unit. hate to keep harping on this but i have found that this is a much easier way to put in place. how much clearance do you have at the torsion bar tube. my chassis is a 71 and i had to modify the transmission mounting plate and move the transaxle approximately 1 inch forward on the mount and hence the motor is located similarly. you might have to remove the throttlebody on the rear and install once the motor is in place.