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Registered
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An item worth noting is that the commonly used rake of the car subtracts from the caster. If the car is adjusted to a 1 deg rake angle (nose down), that's -1 deg caster over a level car (I believe factory specs are near level).
(Edited for correctness - thanks for catching that, Flieger!) And as a point of general reference, lots of caster is not necessarily lots of mechanical trail. It is on a torsion bar 911. But by moving the spindle forward of the steering axis, it is (at least theoretically) possible to have lots of caster without having lots of mechanical trail and associated heavy steering.
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'88 Coupe Lagoon Green "D'ouh!" "Marge - it takes two to lie. One to lie, and one to listen" "We must not allow a Mineshaft Gap!" Last edited by burgermeister; 10-26-2010 at 01:46 PM.. |
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Max Sluiter
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The tilting/lifting of the car due to caster combined with high positive scrub radius will be in the same direction as the lateral inertial reaction force, so there should be little increased effort in the steering wheel due to this aspect in isolation. The contact patch will, however, be made worse in the high scrub + high caster situation. Think of the tilting feedback during cornering on the steering wheel as the effort needed to push a bowling ball off the edge of a hill. There will be more effort, though because the caster causes trail, and by increasing the slip angle you generate a lateral force at the end of that trail and cause a greater moment arm, which causes negative feedback wanting to decrease the slip angle (so turn the wheel opposite the way you are trying to turn it).
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance Last edited by Flieger; 10-26-2010 at 10:27 AM.. |
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Max Sluiter
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How are you calling your rake angle? Is nose down negative? As I see it, on a 911, the negative rake that many people like is subtracting from caster.
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 222
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I have both an 83 SC Coupe, and an 88 Carrera Coupe. Both are properly set up to stock spec: steering, suspension, alignment, balancing, tires, pressures, etc. etc. No question that the 88 handles better all round than the SC: tracking, cornering, lighter steering feel and better balance. Not to say that the SC is bad by any means, because it's a great feel - it's just not as crisp as the Carrera. That's just my opinion anyway.
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 7,269
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Wil,
See the camber curve info here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/454404-effect-negative-camber-lateral-load-capability.html#post4455537 ----- I love learning new stuf and I think I have learned more about 911 suspension's from this guy than just about anyone else. Thx Burgermeister for the two more new points of thought!!! Quote:
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 7,269
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Here is a picture of the outside tire wear I expernced after two days of DE on my 85 with fresh bushings, shocks, cornerballance, alignment, LTD slip, 86 siffer sways and rear torsion bars. Set at about 24.75 rear and 25.25 front and neg camber and caster set to there equal maximums.
We just can not get enough neg camber up front without modifications for track work. You should be able to see the melted rubber on the outside but none on the inside. ![]() |
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Registered
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Brainfart on my part. The commonly used rake angle indeed subtracts from caster.
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'88 Coupe Lagoon Green "D'ouh!" "Marge - it takes two to lie. One to lie, and one to listen" "We must not allow a Mineshaft Gap!" |
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Registered
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Quote:
Still, our camber is sufficient for track work (lots of folks make do with it!). It even provides decent grip. It just isn't optimal for tire wear.
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'88 Coupe Lagoon Green "D'ouh!" "Marge - it takes two to lie. One to lie, and one to listen" "We must not allow a Mineshaft Gap!" |
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Registered
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Heavy steering? Try ditching the rubber strut top mount for a monoball type strut top mount. Get rid of the stiction for a dramatic lightening. Worked for me.
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Registered User
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Hi folks, thread starter here again, with some additional details.
I ended up buying the '85 Carrera that I was looking at, and over the winter, I refreshed the suspension. New Elephant Racing rubber bushings all around (A-arms, spring plates, camber plates), new front sway bar bushings (all 4), new Bilstein HDs all around, and turbo tie rods. I just got it back from the alignment shop and... it still requires a lot of steering effort -- like you need both hands firmly on the wheels for freeway on/offramps. I'm pretty frustrated, but I still have faith that my Carrera can be dialed in to attain the "fingertip" steering that I've experienced in my buddy's SC, and a number of you Pelicans have attested that these Carreras are capable of. Please take a look at all the info below, and let me know your thoughts. Current alignment specs (red numbers are out of spec range): Front left
Front right
Front
Rear left
Rear right
Rear
Here are some additional details to consider:
Again, your thoughts on this are greatly appreciated. Cheers,
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Curtis 1985 RoW Carrera Targa |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Novato, CA
Posts: 4,740
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Quote:
Compared to your car, is your buddy's Targa set as low as yours or is it stock? |
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Registered User
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I believe his SC is at 25.5f/25r fender height, so very close to mine.
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Curtis 1985 RoW Carrera Targa |
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And he's running Fuchs 7Jx16 at all four corners on the SC -- same size fronts as me (different tires though).
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Curtis 1985 RoW Carrera Targa |
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AutoBahned
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Friend of Warren
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 16,483
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Where are you getting specs showing a positive toe for street use? Street should be -1/8 toe in front and 0 to -1/8 rear. I use the Ray Scruggs specs and have always been very happy with how my '86 steers and handles (except I use a tire pressure of 32 front and 36 rear). Here are his alignment specs and a link to his manual:
Ray’s suggested 911 specs: Street Competition Height Front fender lip: (Height varies for 24.5 to 25.5” suspension and Rocker trim: wheel heights) ½ to 1” lower in front than rear Front Camber 0 to –0.5’ -1.5 to –2.25’ Rear Camber -0.5 to –1’ -2 to –3’ (Varies due to rim width and tire stiffness) Castor middle of range forward – wide tires middle – narrow tires Front Toe -1/8” +1/16 to +1/8” Rear Toe 0 to –1/8” 0 to –1/8” (use toe-in if too much power-on oversteer) http://raystrax.com/ha/PDFs/HOME%20ALIGNMENT%20OF%20PORSCHE%20911.pdf
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Kurt V No more Porsches, but a revolving number of motorcycles. |
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,072
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Quote:
I recently pulled a bunch of caster out of my car to lighten the steering; it works as advertised. You may need to compensate with a little more static camber if you're competing with the car. My friend's '87 always had much heavier steering than my earlier SC; a little more caster goes a long way to increasing steering weight.
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69 w 997 GT3 3.6L |
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Yes, both cars currently running 29-30 psi in the front. But the difference in steering effort remains regardless of whether one of the cars is over/under for front tire pressure.
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Curtis 1985 RoW Carrera Targa |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Chalfont Pa
Posts: 1,548
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Always wondered why my sc eats 3.2's at the track!!!!!!
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Registered Loser
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My steering is very heavy even at speed. How do I reduce the castor?
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Current Rides:: 1987 Red 911 Targa, 2007 R320 CDI, 2003 Red Dodge Ram Hemi, 1993 Beater Jeep Cherokee, Airbus A320 Gone but not forgotten: 1981 VW Scirocco S, 1989 Honda Accord Coupe LXI, F-16C (still my favorite vehicle!),MC-130P, C-130E, T-38, T-37, C150, C172, PA180 |
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PRO Motorsports
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Burbank, CA
Posts: 4,580
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It's very common to have a bent front suspension crossmember.
This is the piece that the steering rack bolts to. It is fairly flexible fore/aft, and a good curb impact can cause it to bend, moving the steering rack forward due to the angle of the tie-rods. If the crossmember is at all bent, it places a pre-load on the lower steering shaft bearing. This is the one wrapped in rubber and clamped to the tunnel under the smuggler's box lid. One of the symptoms of this type of steering stiffness is that there will rather poor return-to-center effect in the steering. Not saying this is your cause, but it's one more thing to check for.
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'69 911E coupe' RSR clone-in-progress (retired 911-Spec racer) '72 911T Targa MFI 2.4E spec(Formerly "Scruffy") 2004 GT3 |
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