Installing 95 993 3.6 into 69 T/RSR

[ted]

Mine (10 years ago ) was 3.2 tin and rear cross-brace.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/207216-mirage-911-rsr-project-pics-4.html

Circles around modified areas.





plug wires routed 3.2 style.

[PcarPhil]

Originally Posted by safe

Well, 964 console and crossmember (modified), but youre right.

I also have a spacer (about 1 inch) between the crossmember and body. Otherwise the side tins would hit, the intake would not fit under the parcel shelf, and the gearbox would hit the shock tower crossmember.
I think I have the engine in the right place, maybe I should use slightly thicker spacers.
Should have raised the crossmember when I was welding on it... Maybe I'll redo that.

Oops, I forgot about the 1" spacers that are needed with the 964/993 console and crossmember. I just added them to my post above. My '88 cab with '97 VRam engine runs this setup.

When I've installed 3.6 engines with 964 or '95 993 intakes and 3.2 console and crossmembers then the 1" crossmember spacers can be optional. Instead I generally make an upward indention in the chassis parcel shelf using a 4x4 and a floor jack to provide additional clearance without needing crossmember spacers.

My experience is limited to '77-'88 cars so the '69 install (rear parcel shelf) may be different.

[safe]

Originally Posted by Kaefer

Oops, I forgot about the 1" spacers that are needed with the 964/993 console and crossmember. I just added them to my post above. My '88 cab with '97 VRam engine runs this setup.

When I've installed 3.6 engines with 964 or '95 993 intakes and 3.2 console and crossmembers then the 1" crossmember spacers can be optional. Instead I generally make an upward indention in the chassis parcel shelf using a 4x4 and a floor jack to provide additional clearance without needing crossmember spacers.

My experience is limited to '77-'88 cars so the '69 install (rear parcel shelf) may be different.

Easy to forget stuff, there are sooo many things that needs tweaking on a project like this...
Even with the spacer I had to make a little indentation in the parcel shelf...

[arrivederci]

I use spacers with the 3.2 console/crossmember on my 3.6, but I think the varioram intake is taller.

[PcarPhil]

Originally Posted by arrivederci

I use spacers with the 3.2 console/crossmember on my 3.6, but I think the varioram intake is taller.

Yes the varioram intake is taller requiring spacers and/or modifying the parcel shelf.

Here's an example of what Patrick Motorsports has done to avoid using crossmember spacers with the varioram intake:

[rennch]

No Varioram for me. It's a 95 engine.

[PcarPhil]

Originally Posted by safe

Even with the spacer I had to make a little indentation in the parcel shelf...

Originally Posted by emptyo

No Varioram for me. It's a 95 engine.

*hint hint* Michael you'll probably need to clearance the '69 parcel shelf a wee bit to install your '95 engine.

Here's a pic of a 964 engine in a '77 chassis using 3.2 console/crossmember and no crossmember spacers. You can't see in the pic but the parcel shelf was clearanced using a 4x4 (although not technically needed with the 964 intake).

[ted]

Originally Posted by Kaefer

*hint hint* Michael you'll probably need to clearance the '69 parcel shelf a wee bit to install your '95 engine.

ditto had the same clearance issue on on my 69 with a 95 non vr.

[rennch]

Ok, noted on the clearance. Clarence.


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[rennch]

UPDATE:

making major progress on the car. We are getting down to crunch time, and ready for the installation. Some final cleanup was routing the DME through the chassis:



And then, I wanted to clean up the fan housing and fan itself. It was in really bad shape. Here's what the fan look like before:



Not exactly a pretty sight!

I used stripper to remove the paint, and followed up with some fine grit sandpaper:



After getting the fan and housing cleaned up, I rattle canned the paint into something far more better looking:







This weekend, we are making the final preparation, for a potential install on Monday. One thing I don't have yet is extended studs to mount the transmission to the 3.6 L motor. I was going to go to McMaster Carr and order them, but I don't know exactly which ones to order. I also need longer studs for the engine console. Does anyone have any idea of what lengths I should order, and which studs I should order from them? There are so many I don't know which ones to choose.

Thanks, and I will see you for the next update.


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[rennch]

Just as I was typing this, the UPS (or the "brown Santa", as I call him) guy showed up with the Earls cooler I ordered yesterday. This is the 25000A cooler that I will use under my RSR front bumper. It looks like it will fit with a bit of modification to the bumper. And at $245, a reasonable price.





Will update on the install.

Here's a shot I took of the engine and conversion (note the video equipment...hmmm) at Jae Lee's Mirage International here in San Diego:






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[Cory M]

Originally Posted by emptyo

....

One thing I don't have yet is extended studs to mount the transmission to the 3.6 L motor. I was going to go to McMaster Carr and order them, but I don't know exactly which ones to order. I also need longer studs for the engine console. Does anyone have any idea of what lengths I should order, and which studs I should order from them? There are so many I don't know which ones to choose.

If you need a local source for bolts check out Marshall's hardware, they are in Miramar not far from Jae's shop. Also Ababa bolt in El Cajon.

[rennch]

I've been to Marshall's, and will probably size these up there. Hopefully they have em.


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[rennch]

Ps...Marshalls is Tool & Fabrication porn. Wow.


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[Bill Verburg]

Now is the time to get rid of the AC console, unless AC is retained of course. Either use the RS part or cut the one you have.

Also address any leaks, usual suspects are cam covers, tensioner bridges, oil console on top of the intake

[safe]

Originally Posted by emptyo

And then, I wanted to clean up the fan housing and fan itself. It was in really bad shape. Here's what the fan look like before:



Not exactly a pretty sight!

I used stripper to remove the paint, and followed up with some fine grit sandpaper:



After getting the fan and housing cleaned up, I rattle canned the paint into something far more better looking:







This weekend, we are making the final preparation, for a potential install on Monday. One thing I don't have yet is extended studs to mount the transmission to the 3.6 L motor. I was going to go to McMaster Carr and order them, but I don't know exactly which ones to order. I also need longer studs for the engine console. Does anyone have any idea of what lengths I should order, and which studs I should order from them? There are so many I don't know which ones to choose.

Thanks, and I will see you for the next update.


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Good results!

Here is how mine turned out after a bead blast and Gibbs oil. *Looked a bil like yours

[rennch]

Massive productivity today. A big fabrication day! Got the front oil cooler mounted, the hard lines installed, the fan housing / alternator installed, and customized the crossmember for the dual coils.














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[rennch]

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[POORSH]

Michael,
Can you please post some close-up pics of what modifications you had to do with the engine tin? I know pics were posted by Ted for his conversion. I am hoping to see what tin you used and what you had to do to make the engine fit as I am thinking of doing a backdate to a '75 with a '95 non-vr motor.
TIA.

[rennch]

There's an air vent on the 3.6 L engine that leads from the top of the fan shroud down into the heat exchanger. Since I'm getting rid of the heat on my car I need to cover a big hole up. Jae's idea is to pull out all the rubber and plug it with a piece of Kevlar. So here's my attempt. This is the original piece with the rubber broken off.



And, after about 10 minutes of finagling, here's the rubber completely removed.



I used a piece of paper to make a rough template, and ran my finger around the edges. Then I glued the paper onto the backside of the Kevlar so it wouldn't move as I was cutting it out.



Here is the rough-cut:



After about 10 minutes of trimming, grinding and otherwise inhaling too much fiberglass the piece is about finished:



I've glued it just to keep it in place so tomorrow I can rivet it. And I threw a few clamps on there to hold it overnight. I probably could've used JB weld to secure it but hopefully this works. Once it's riveted I will silicone the backside to keep it secure and make an airtight.



We are getting very close. I'm just waiting for a new clutch to come in, and a few oil line connectors.


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