Another rust combat

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by Mxeven

Hi Roland,

Looks great as always! I like following your thread and check in for updates. I admire your dedication to reducing weigth, it will be exiting when you put it on the scales once finished.

Just a suggestion about the starter bracket, remember that the starter grounds through the bracket and the anodizing isolates the starter from the gearbox. So you need to ground the starter in some other way or remove some of the anodizing to create contact. Saves a lot of tears when trying to find out why the starter does not work .

I had exactly the same thought before assembly but after anodizing. Ground cable will do the trick then

Thanks for input anyway. The more eyes, the better!

... and still thinking about the tranny beam color. But even worse, if I choose black should I anodize or powdercoat (to get similar look as the rear beam)? Questions over questions...

[Kozmo930]

As you can see I have raised spindles , but I think there would be enough room above arm to flip this to other side .

I have a support brace on top now so I can't mock that up Kozmo

[proffighter]

Kozmo

I will check measurements tomorrow. You are talking about this area, right?

[BarryJB]

Hi Roland,
Great catching up on your progress after my viewing hiatus - fascinating and awesome as ever.

I note you found a smaller "hockey puck" type horn (Post #409). I changed to similar units for my 911 and one of my motorcycles, and I also fabricated custom aluminum straps to mount them, in place of the so-I-thought cheesy steel ones (one had two thin straps, doubled up) supplied with them... and...

...neither horn worked!!!!, except for a pathetic and somewhat temporary sheep-like bleat. It appears the spring rate/resonant length of the strap is fundamental to the operation of at least some puck horn designs.

Just in case you didn't check your new puck's sound with the new strap - might save you some aggro later!

My favorite non-"what stuff/how do I fix/do this" thread. I look forward to seeing your car in an Excellence magazine spread once you are happy with the number of holes you will have drilled in everything

[krasuskyp]

Originally Posted by BarryJB

...neither horn worked!!!!, except for a pathetic and somewhat temporary sheep-like bleat.

Did Ronknees come a runnin!?!?

CAREFUL! watch yer ba(aaaaaaa)ck...

[Ronnie's.930]

^^^ Holy ****! Well done, Paul!

And as a token of my appreciation . . .



* Note the Junior High theme that Norm referenced in the POTD tread - hardy har har!

[Kozmo930]

as usual ... Paul and Ronnie up to their best to keep us entertained

But to answer your Question ; yes that is the area to measure . That is a 3" hose connection on end hard to get a better shot right now but it has a small turn towards the front as it wraps around . If it were on under the tie rod arm it would slightly turn up, if was over it would slightly turn down . Either way it has a good tight fit pointing towards lower arm .

Kozmo

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by BarryJB

Hi Roland,
Great catching up on your progress after my viewing hiatus - fascinating and awesome as ever.

I note you found a smaller "hockey puck" type horn (Post #409). I changed to similar units for my 911 and one of my motorcycles, and I also fabricated custom aluminum straps to mount them, in place of the so-I-thought cheesy steel ones (one had two thin straps, doubled up) supplied with them... and...

...neither horn worked!!!!, except for a pathetic and somewhat temporary sheep-like bleat. It appears the spring rate/resonant length of the strap is fundamental to the operation of at least some puck horn designs.

Just in case you didn't check your new puck's sound with the new strap - might save you some aggro later!

My favorite non-"what stuff/how do I fix/do this" thread. I look forward to seeing your car in an Excellence magazine spread once you are happy with the number of holes you will have drilled in everything

Barry

Thank you for your kind words!

Your thoughts about the horn are correct. The horn has to be mounted "loose" so it can swing. For that reason I fitted a rubber between horn and bracket, similar to ever horn seen on motorcycles. Of course you cannot expect a deep massive sound of a small thing like this, but it's loud enough and sounds better than you may think.

[BarryJB]

Originally Posted by proffighter

...The horn has to be mounted "loose" so it can swing... ...similar to ever horn seen on motorcycles...

Ha, I just looked on my Benelli which is the only (of 3) bikes I've owned where I DIDN'T change the puck and so never looked at it... yup, rubber mount... but the other two had springy strap mounts on the stock units. Live & learn, teach me to overthink things!

Originally Posted by proffighter

Of course you cannot expect a deep massive sound of a small thing like this, but it's loud enough and sounds better than you may think.

The screaming of an enraged squirrel is certainly better than a pathetic attempt at an ovine bleat.

One of the most impressive things about your project is how often you had already thought through "potential issues" other Pelicans had in good faith raised... add this minor contribution to that list!

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by BarryJB

One of the most impressive things about your project is how often you had already thought through "potential issues" other Pelicans had in good faith raised... add this minor contribution to that list!

The issues I just don't tell

Kozmo

I made some pictures, not the best I guess, cause car is on the wheels and low... Tell me if you need better or different angle:

[Kozmo930]

Roland ; looking at your spindles you have a support brace on the top to like me . So with that said looks like your going to be the test unit for clearance issues . Your anti roll bars are different to , so picture #3 where there is some clearance between body and anti roll bar what is that measurement ? wondering if the hose would fit through there going under your tie rod arm . I might have to make something special for yours but it can be done .Smart racing made some tube wraps that went around lower arms great idea to keep hoses off ground . Have to see about that

Kozmo

[proffighter]

Kozmo

I will get some more measurements tomorrow. Guess there is still enough room under the steering arm, but we will see when we know the value.

Have you seen this? Maybe some ideas:

Carbon Fiber Brake Ducts finished

[Kozmo930]

Honestly this is what got me started ..." carbon ducts finished"... tried to get ahold of him but he just disappeared ???
So I decided to make my own but with a few improvements . Good idea to look at that picture he had a anti roll bar something like yours , appears to be enough room to go in between the body and bar link strut to lower arm . Going under improves the straight alignment of hose to lower control arm angle , less movement . I have both of my fronts off so checking back and forth , side to side is easy . Just wanted to be sure on the measurement between body and bar , I have a 22mm under in stock location not through body .

I also noticed when he ran the hose between the link bar and body it is a tight fit , alittle crunch in hose he pictured

Kozmo

[Discseven]

ROLAND... with a few fine cups of coffee, the morning has been invested journeying with you from beginning to present. To think this is a "rust combat" thread... amusing title to say the least given the work you've done. Very impressive and even more so given you're getting things done to the level of craftsmanship you do... working on the balcony... with rabbit companion... home chemical plating & lathe. Fantastic! You also deserve credit for taking the time to take photos, edit, post and comment on them---I know this takes a good deal of time in and of itself. COMPLIMENTS to you all around Roland *****

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by Discseven

ROLAND... with a few fine cups of coffee, the morning has been invested journeying with you from beginning to present. To think this is a "rust combat" thread... amusing title to say the least given the work you've done. Very impressive and even more so given you're getting things done to the level of craftsmanship you do... working on the balcony... with rabbit companion... home chemical plating & lathe. Fantastic! You also deserve credit for taking the time to take photos, edit, post and comment on them---I know this takes a good deal of time in and of itself. COMPLIMENTS to you all around Roland *****

Thank you

[proffighter]

Kozmo

Finally I got the measurements what hopefully help you:

Between side wall and sway bar rod its 60mm. After looking at your prototype I think it should work for me too (port below spindle arm) don't you think? Or where do you see problems with my stock spindles (are they the same height than my RSR ones, haven't checked yet). Maybe the first pic helps for this question:

[Kozmo930]

With that measurement you could be ok , a little tight against the body but should fit

Look close at picture might work for everyone , that is at 90 degree lock left ....60mm you have but , 3 inch is just short of 80mm Kozmo

[proffighter]

Kozmo
That's looking very good!

Made some more mods on parts, first the throttle stop from Rennline, way oversized:




Machined-off a lot and made the nut out of aluminum, here right before anodizing:




Also I drilled the front hood latch, made a new pin out of SS A4-80 and the spring holder in aluminum:








And I received my new oil cooler from Patrick Motorsport, lot of work ahead once more

[Kozmo930]

Well I will keep at it see what I come up with
finishing up some of the repair areas I made some adjustments , but it fits very nice.

I am still amazed at your progress ... slow but well thought out and designed . I know spring is coming soon so hopefully we will all find out the end weight

Kozmo

[911nut]

Roland, when your project is complete it would be nice if you could organize your pictures of mods by system and have everything posted in a sticky on the site for reference on weight reduction. It could be a living document that you could update as you discover any weaknesses in any components (inevitably you will discover a few). I think such a record would be the most comprehensive document on 911/930 lightweight techniques that would ever exist and a real landmark in our hobby.
Good luck and carry on, sir.