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Arrow Finished but not running

Car is Factory Euro 3.0

The mission that i chose to accept was to drop temperature of said motor while running in traffic in Australian summer Days

During of which i cursed , swore and cursed everything and everyone who thought to comment on what i was doing wrong, of which i apologize its an anurism thing
Well ill like to say haha i did it and its all fixed, who needs knowledge to get things working ? ill just buy a spanner set...cant be much harder than repairing a computer right? soo

I bought
3.3 intake manifold
3.3 diverter valve thing
3.3 Factory Intercooler
3.0 beers

and hopefully as everyone says whack it on and off you go ...
Trying different hoses to different places,
so i
took off fuel head,
too easy left the silver thing on it (sorry ronnie) and i chucked it in awheel barrow to clean it




that sorted i then took off the bits off the engine so i could upgrade with the later parts...




So then..
Put on the lovely 3.3 manifold it FIT excellent im happy but the Throttle Body didnt so i turned it around... but then the link didnt fit to it so i changed that a bit, it seems to work by feel but as the car wont start who knows. but im still pretty happy as it is progress..


Fuel Head and Silver Wur all clean and shiny put it back on engine,.. so far so good, but as i bought a air intake where do i put that hose? didnt know so i put some braid on that and a filter on the end.. looking good as well not Bad Bob.. put on the 3.3 diverter valve i had to use bit of force but all fitting and sealed tight with grandmas secret recipe gump so far all cool



the AAR is sort of floating on right side of engine bay, it looks comfortable so ill leave it there for now.. not sure if i put right hose on it ..startint to get muddled now drinking the 3.0 beers ..



NOw and with AAR removed it looks complete but doesnt work it turns over.. that excites me.. with the msd ignition and the intercooler and the 5 speed and the no roof lightweight centre of gravity im sure it would beat a veyron.. but as it wont start, ill never know.. but i can say now that i have rebuilt a Porsche 930 Euro engine with a spanner set and 3 beers,.!! and that aint bad, even if it dont work? so im still happy..

kind of


This is her latest incarnation ,
I fear shes starting to rust,,
But She Will turn over and the radio works!!!
Now im going to dismantle it again and try to find where i went wrong and rectify it,, im sure ive got a hose crossed.. its all poobar

But it shows it is Physically possible to put 3.3 parts on a 3.0 engine and all by an expert not in porsche engines

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Old 03-06-2014, 06:51 PM
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You made me laugh. It doesn't count till it starts though so... That's your original WUR and original AAV?
Did you touch the distributor at all while doing this project?
Do you hear the fuel pumps coming on?
Cool idea putting 3.3 top side parts on a 3.0. Not sure it will be a big enhancement but it is a noble effort!
Old 03-06-2014, 07:11 PM
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Rob:

This might help



Cole
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Cole - 80 930 "The Old Sled"
Mods: TurboKraft Custom IC, 934 Headers, GSX 61, Zork, Port Work, SC Cams, Air Mod Fuel Dist Relocated, Water Meth Injection, BL WUR, MSD 6530, Greddy EBC, Synapse Bov, Short 2nd & 3rd with 8:37 R&P, Wevo Shifter, Coupling, and Mounts, MTX-L SSI-4, Big Brakes, Rebel Coilovers, Bilstein Sports.
Old 03-06-2014, 07:12 PM
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Rob, third picture up from the bottom shows you have a cap on the WUR's vent port (bad), but in the next two pics it looks like you have a hose on there but the hose looks like it is folded over, or kinked. Where is that hose going? I ask, and maybe you already know this, but that is a vent that allows the WUR diaphragm to work properly - it must be freely vented to atmosphere. Also, if the diaphragm ever ruptures, fuel will pour out of that vent, so you might consider that when you decide where to route the hose.

Diverter valve - did you run a hose from the spout on the diverter valve end cap to the down curved, same sized pipe on the primary intake manifold (4th pic from the bottom - shows tape on it)? Also in the same pic, there appears to be white tape on the upward pointing spout (was used for the deceleration valve which many people remove and run without - me included) - that needs a sturdy vacuum cap hose clamped onto it - tape won't work because it will leak bigtime (vacuum and boost pressure).

Last edited by Ronnie's.930; 03-06-2014 at 07:56 PM..
Old 03-06-2014, 07:27 PM
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Robby, it can take a while to prime the cis injection system after it has been apart. Air in the metal injector lines between the fuel head and the injectors. You can crack the nuts loose on all six injectors then with the ignition on, push the metering door down with your fingers until you see a bit of fuel come out from the injector nuts. Shutdown, then tighten the injector nuts back up.

Look after ensuring all lines are hooked up first per Ronnies advice above.

Good to see you so far along. It was just a few weeks ago when you were asking questions about how to do this intercooler/manifold conversion.
Old 03-06-2014, 07:50 PM
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Thanks all i am slowly attending to each of the issues pointed out,,
Hi Ronnie, yes i was trying to block things off in the hope of it starting, ill follow your advice on those issues and addres each one and see how it goes, ive been following the vacuum diagram but things are a bit confusing As the throttle body is sideways now,

Curious though re injectors,,, how long does it take for the petrol to come through?
Cos i turned it over for about 5 minutes, i noticed a leak on fuel head and number 4 injector so i tightened them up.. but im not hearing ANY firing whatsoever, its just turning nothing else

Im basically doing all of this just so i can run factory intercooler on the engine, for lower temp and maybe a bit of xtra hp, i think i may have done it the long way though

I just blew a compressor hose cos the soldering iron lead got caught in my stupid dogs tail and he dragged the tip of it onto the air compressor hose,, and i had just made 300psi on it and it exploded and ive got hose and bits all over the garage , Ernie is ok though, serves him right i told him to keep away from it, so ive wrapped that up wih the white tape that was on the WUR its strong stuff
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Last row 1977 3.0 930 260hp built, still reassembling
Row 1998 996 MK1 3.4 296hp new daily driver
Old 03-06-2014, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSPTurtle View Post
You made me laugh. It doesn't count till it starts though so... That's your original WUR and original AAV?
Did you touch the distributor at all while doing this project?
Do you hear the fuel pumps coming on?
Cool idea putting 3.3 top side parts on a 3.0. Not sure it will be a big enhancement but it is a noble effort!
Yes original aar and wur, the distributer i did touch, i undid some of the square nuts that faced the front left and right corner of it and swapped them with matching Allen hex nuts from the back of it for better matching look, i also pumped the plate a bit it felt smooth,
doesnt seem to be any (Fuel) leaks

Taking Ic off now and going over Air hoses and bits, ill take this laptop into garage .

all this Advice is very appreciated.
i want to hear this beast run , im thinking 100hp gain over stock with the msd ignition, Intercooler, 3.3 intake, 5 speed, and no roof massive weight saving, just means ill have to put a tarp over it if it rains on way to work
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Row 1998 996 MK1 3.4 296hp new daily driver
Old 03-06-2014, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930 View Post
Rob, third picture up from the bottom shows you have a cap on the WUR's vent port (bad), but in the next two pics it looks like you have a hose on there but the hose looks like it is folded over, or kinked. Where is that hose going? I ask, and maybe you already know this, but that is a vent that allows the WUR diaphragm to work properly - it must be freely vented to atmosphere. Also, if the diaphragm ever ruptures, fuel will pour out of that vent, so you might consider that when you decide where to route the hose.

Diverter valve - did you run a hose from the spout on the diverter valve end cap to the down curved, same sized pipe on the primary intake manifold (4th pic from the bottom - shows tape on it)? Also in the same pic, there appears to be white tape on the upward pointing spout (was used for the deceleration valve which many people remove and run without - me included) - that needs a sturdy vacuum cap hose clamped onto it - tape won't work because it will leak bigtime (vacuum and boost pressure).
ive Temp blocked off Wur, blocked off 2 more vents off the throttle body,
One of them prev went to charge line of the wg so i put that on the IC now i guess?,
i ran a hose from the wur to breathe down the back and outside the car, if fuel goes ive angled the line outside under bumper to spray at cars behind me away from my car if there is a problem.
The AAR, if im to block it one end might as well take it out an dblock off the holes it makes? will that work? also ive got 2 holes left over, one of which is the fuel (sensor)? see pic, do i need to do anything with that or can i lave it? the other hole is next to oil filler is that brake booster? if so where would it go?

im going to loosen off injectors and bleed now, get the fuel through

I put a filter on oil breather also,
next to brake port?
Ill sghorten AAR line and plug it tight when i work out where ill put it if i keep it in car, but if i dont need it ill ditch it, it weighs a few ounces




ive blocked off at intake where the decel would have gone i think?
also to the right ive blocked off throttle body ports, leaving one that runs a hose to the dizzy
In the diagram shows only a couple of lines from tb but mine has about 6 or so ports coming off of it






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Row 1998 996 MK1 3.4 296hp new daily driver
Old 03-06-2014, 10:30 PM
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Guys im Pushing the metering? plate down on the fuel head a number of times and ive noticed that the WUR fuel line to the fuel head is rockhard like its going to pop is this normal? no fuel coming out of injectors yet, how many times do i need to pump the plate any idea?
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:40 PM
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I have fuel to the injectors, Pumps working fine,
but no start, going through wiring side of things now
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Old 03-07-2014, 12:31 AM
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why is the throttle body rotated to the right 90 degrees?

electrical tape on fuel lines?

dont use those nuts on the intake. i spent nearly a year chasing down a very slight miss. turned out to be an air leak at the intake manifold due to the nuts.
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Old 03-07-2014, 04:42 AM
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^^^ tiewraps and electrical tape on fuel lines = no,no,no regardless of whatever the issue is. May be is a blessing that the car hasn't started... M2c.
Old 03-07-2014, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T77911S View Post
why is the throttle body rotated to the right 90 degrees?

electrical tape on fuel lines?

dont use those nuts on the intake. i spent nearly a year chasing down a very slight miss. turned out to be an air leak at the intake manifold due to the nuts.
Because a 3.0 throttle body doesnt fit on a 3.3 manifold without changing things, i didnt want to buy a 3.3 body as well after waiting as long as i did for the other bits. the tape is for visibility so i can see them , dont worry the fittings are still in place under the tape what do you use instead of nuts? whatever ill need i doubt id have them, maybe some gasket goo on thread on each one may, alleviate potential leaks ? fingers crossed
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Old 03-07-2014, 01:43 PM
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See Diagram,
Shows Diverter line valve housing #6 line going to Vacuum control #7 im assuming they mean decel Valve..

but with Decel Valve off the engine where does the line then route to?
good to leave it open to air anyone know?
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Old 03-07-2014, 01:48 PM
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Hello Robby,

That spout next to the oil filter is part of the oil tank vent system that is not used on the turbo set-up, so that should be capped. The brake booster port is on the left side of the primary intake manifold and points directly at the left side of the engine bay wall/inner fender.

In the diagram above, that line you are asking about is the hose that goes from the diverter valve end cap to the curved spout of the primary intake manifold (I think you have that in place). It only looks like it is going to #7 in the diagram because they share the same inlet on the intake manifold (the one with the straight and curved combination spout. The straight portion needs a cap on it, and I think you said you have one on there now.

You can't leave any of the unused spouts open to air as that would crate a huge vacuum and boost leaks and would result in extremely rich running conditions (as in won't run for sh@t).

I also want to point out that with that very short section of hose, with the filter on it, leading from the oil tank vent (the one on the tank filler neck) you will get a tremendous amount of oil/water vapor out of there, which will be sucked in and blown all about (sounds like Paul ), by the engine fan. You might want to consider running a much longer length of hose down through the space near the right shock tower that leads to the ground. That way the fumes are vented outside.

Last edited by Ronnie's.930; 03-07-2014 at 06:49 PM..
Old 03-07-2014, 06:38 PM
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Hi no worries,

Was trying to start it
Took ages of holding the metering plate..
Then i put on the left hand side plugs
Then she started

sounds loud theres a harsh pop sound ,
So i removed aar completely and capped

she pops in a way it sounds like she is going to blow up,, not backfiring its higher pitched and quieter but unnerving

Theres a silver tube from the diverter valve housing on the left curving downwards is that the bov? where should i run that to? ive put a temp hose on that see last pic

Also she stars then dies, if i dont rev her.. i adjusted the idle a bit, very easy i can now reach it without a screwdriver and turn it with my fingers, but i feel i need other adjustments to make it start up without depressing the metering plate each time, then i have to constantly blip the throttle or she will die..

T already put a hose since we last spoke from the crankcase breather as there was oil dripping down the ceiling of the engine bay so i ran that to the outlet next to oil filler,

But she is undriveable, as i have to take off air filter each time and depress etc

heres pics up to date

The horizontal port coming off the WUR should that breathe? or put it where you can see it temporarily on the tb..?







you can see the open hose off the diverter housing below

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Row 1998 996 MK1 3.4 296hp new daily driver
Old 03-07-2014, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930 View Post
Hello Robby,

That spout next to the oil filter is part of the oil tank vent system that is not used on the turbo set-up, so that should be capped. The brake booster port is on the left side of the primary intake manifold and points directly at the left side of the engine bay wall/inner fender.

Do i do anything with the brake booster pipe?

I also want to point out that with that very short section of hose, with the filter on it, leading from the oil tank vent (the one on the tank filler neck) you will get a tremendous amount of oil/water vapor out of there, which will be sucked in and blown all about (sounds like Paul ), by the engine fan. You might want to consider running a much longer length of hose down through the space near the right shock tower that leads to the ground. That way the fumes are vented outside.
will do that lastly as ive run out of longish hoses.

i posted above re that brake pipe..

confusing where it goes
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:27 PM
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