The Complete Engine Sealant Thread...

[jimbauman]

Jeeze... the last time I heard about that many oil leaks coming from the base of the cylinders was when a friend forgot to torque the heads on one side....

Ya, I'd be really upset with the shop too.....

JB

[iamchappy]

I just got back from driving the car for about 45minutes, the leaking appears to come from someplace higher than the cylinder base gaskets, before the base gaskets leaked all the time even when sitting. I dont think they are leaking from there like before, the engine wasn't terribly oily but was still wet, it didn't take much to clean up.

When i drop the engine to adjust the valves next week i will be able to identify where most of the leakage is from.
Dont laugh guys but i picked up some aerosol Permatex external leak stopper. I used this stuff on a big oil leak i had on my BMW about 14 years ago and it worked great!
I may attempt to slow things up by using it. Maybe attach a shop vac to the oil breather hose and suck the stuff into the areas that are suspect.

Actually you guys can laugh all you want, this of course is a band aid so i can enjoy the car for awhile until i have it fixed right.

[Henry Schmidt]

Hi Chappy
I am sorry to see that your ordeal persists.
You may have some good news.
Oil leaks from above the cylinders are either a case through bolt or two (easy to remedy) or possibly leaks around the oil sender, breather or thermostat.
There isn't much else above the cylinder line.
Check those items and who knows, maybe your luck will change.

As for globbing gobs of goo on a freshly built 911 engine: NO NO!! step away from the precision built German vehicle.

Remember this nightmare? you don't want to join the ranks of the absurd.

[iamchappy]

Henry if i cant fix it i am giving you a shot at it this time.
The car is really fun hard to limit the RPMS on this break in it wants to blast off and it is hard to let off fast enough.

[sww914]

Well, that looks like the used engine that I bought, but my tractor mechanic used red RTV instead of gray and he installed the head studs backwards.

[Henry Schmidt]

Originally Posted by iamchappy

Henry if i cant fix it i am giving you a shot at it this time.
The car is really fun hard to limit the RPMS on this break in it wants to blast off and it is hard to let off fast enough.

I told you those little turbos (70.4x97) want to run. There is something mysterious about that combination.
The 3.12 935 made 700 and proved to be very formidable in IMSA competition.

As for having us repair someone else's screw up. Yikes!! I can guarantee you one thing, we will take closer to 1 month than 1 year. I'll even give you a rate.

"I'll see your rate and raise you" opps I'm channeling Al again. Whoo-ah

[iamchappy]

How long should i wait to let her go...

[efhughes3]

Henry, you should be banned from posting those UGLY, UGLY pics.

[ArtechnikA]

Here's my only question on all the tricko sealants...

I understand the good stuff will seal, which is A Good Thing.

After you've got it all stuck together so well it won't leak, how hard is it to get it UN-stuck for the next rebuild? Are any of these "permanent" sealants?

I'm OK with the application of 'moderate' amounts of heat (after all, the engine gets hot in service...) but there's a limit to how much I want to be waving a torch around a magnesium case...

[whackit]

Hi folks,

I'm planning to use Henry's four sealant approach when I seal my case. I would like to lay in the crankshaft and components and have some time to inspect everything. I will have to apply the 1211 to the #8 bearing when I lay the crank in. How long do I have before I need to torque down the case (as it effects the 8 bearing)? Note that I am just asking about the 1211 around the #8 bearing. Ideally I would love to have about 24hrs after I lay the crank in before sealing the whole case.

[iamchappy]

After driving the car for close to 300 miles i think i am able to pin down the source the oil is leaking from. The 914-6 heat exchangers were preventing me from getting a good look up there, i replaced them with my headers and not only saw huge improvement in lag but can see what's going on with the leaks now.
Engine leaks from the head to cylinder runs all over the exhaust flanges and runs down the heat diverter tins. I have Henrys Supertec head studs in there and i've not checked it yet but i bet the builder torqued the nuts to the factory spec's, not Henrys of 30lbs.

How can this be remedied if the head studs are torqued correctly. 3.3 cylinders- 78 SC heads.

[dtw]

Originally Posted by ArtechnikA

Here's my only question on all the tricko sealants...

I understand the good stuff will seal, which is A Good Thing.

After you've got it all stuck together so well it won't leak, how hard is it to get it UN-stuck for the next rebuild? Are any of these "permanent" sealants?

I'm OK with the application of 'moderate' amounts of heat (after all, the engine gets hot in service...) but there's a limit to how much I want to be waving a torch around a magnesium case...

No problem disassembling. Nothing a rubber mallet and a wooden drift won't knock loose.

BTW you can unload an entire handheld propane torch on a mag case without worries. These are giant alloy heatsinks (the largest ever cast at the time, in fact), not the little shavings of magnesium you flared in high-school chem.

[BURN-BROS]

Chap,

Pull the valve covers and look for leaking from the rocker shafts. Sorry you are having these problems on something you want to enjoy. Be strong dood, you'll get it!

[Eagledriver]

I have had head nuts loosen with steel studs. Just retorque them.

-Andy

[Porschekid962]

Those pictures that Henry post truly are scary but its not like I have not seen that sort of fix before. In racing as long as it lasts the race you are golden, on a streetcar its a bit different. I just came across a new sealant that I am truly a fan of. When I built my dad's motor I used curil t on the cylinders to case, threebond 1104 for the case halves and a host of other products for the rest. When I have a chance to rebuild it again I will use Curil T on the cylinder to case halves and Audi "sump sealant" on the rest of the motor. It is pricey but damn does it work well.

[whackit]

Thanks to all who helped so much in this thread. Here's a picture of Henrys four sealant approach prior to mating. I found that the best way to spread the sealants was with a foam swab after laying down a bead. I loaded a syringe with the 1104 and that worked great. like everyone says. a little goes a long way. I had the perfect amount of squeeze out and barely used any.

[VincentVega]

I am having a hard time finding Threebond 1104, is the new 1194 ok to use?

Also, in the above pic, what is the red sealant in the bearing races? I cant tell if it's lube on the bearings, or if the bearings are being glued in.

Thanks

[88911coupe]

I believe Henry explained earlier that 1194 is the "lead free" replacement version of 1104 and is fine to use if you can't find 1104. I can't seem to find either of them locally (Dallas).

[dtw]

Originally Posted by Chris Martin

I am having a hard time finding Threebond 1104, is the new 1194 ok to use?

Also, in the above pic, what is the red sealant in the bearing races? I cant tell if it's lube on the bearings, or if the bearings are being glued in.

Thanks

Lube. See #1 bearing installed. The others are harder to see (you can make out the tangs on the near side though) but #1 is a dead giveaway.

[Henry Schmidt]

Originally Posted by BURN-BROS

I think Henry has gathered a kit so that you guys can get what you need if you cannot get it from Pelican.

Here's where to find it. Complete kit $100 plus shipping.