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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porschekid962 View Post
Those pictures that Henry post truly are scary but its not like I have not seen that sort of fix before. In racing as long as it lasts the race you are golden, on a streetcar its a bit different. .....edit........
This was not a track side repair. Strangely enough, this was a fresh build with zero miles.
The builder, although regarded as an expert by some, hasn't got a clue!!!
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Old 09-24-2008, 03:15 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #101 (permalink)
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Will DC 111 be okay on the cam shaft end cover o rings or will this cause problems?
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Old 09-24-2008, 04:58 PM
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That is the proper product for those o-rings. Use sparingly and don't let it get on the green gaskets underneith.

-Andy
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Old 09-24-2008, 06:38 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #103 (permalink)
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Thanks, that's good to hear since already used it. I used it very sparingly and it seemed to make them slide in easier.
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Old 09-24-2008, 07:27 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #104 (permalink)
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Quote:
Also, in the above pic, what is the red sealant in the bearing races? I cant tell if it's lube on the bearings, or if the bearings are being glued in.
That's red line assembly lube.
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Old 09-24-2008, 08:14 PM
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I'm getting ready to assemble my bottom end. I picked up the sealants and I've been experimenting with the threebond 1194 ( previously 1104). when spread thinly on aluminum, in my garage ( coolish), it sets up to tack free in about 3 minutes. tops! I have concerns about getting it applied and assembling the case in that kind of time frame. any thoughts/input? thanks, Don.

ps - as this obviously isn't anaerobic, will dried squeeze out on the inside harm anything?

Last edited by haycait911; 10-11-2008 at 11:23 PM..
Old 10-11-2008, 11:06 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #106 (permalink)
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it seems to dry over pretty quickly but when you torque it down it grabs. it took me about five minutes to get it applied to my case. you don't need to use too much, that will minimize squeeze out. I found that loading a syringe and spreading a consistent bead, then smoothing with a foam (not cotton!) swab worked well. The resulting bead is minor and pretty tough, I doubt any would flake off. If you are using the 1211 on the nose you really only need a very light coat, almost as light as you can spread it with a finger.
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Old 10-13-2008, 03:01 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #107 (permalink)
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Where can you get Curil T in Canada?

In my province, there seems to be no supplier of Curil T. What is a suitable substitute?
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Old 10-13-2008, 08:39 PM
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Hylomar® Universal Blue sealant


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Old 10-13-2008, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakev View Post
In my province, there seems to be no supplier of Curil T. What is a suitable substitute?

look at my last post here.

Ultimate engine sealant thread - for Canada!

apparently, hylomar by permatex will also work. Don.
Old 10-13-2008, 08:43 PM
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I use non-hardening permatex. It's a black tar-like substance.

-Andy
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Old 10-13-2008, 08:43 PM
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oil leaks from heads

Here are some underside pictures of the heads where oil is leaking from engine ( same on both sides), i cleaned the engine area up with some brake cleaner because everything was very wet with oil , this may help all of you pinpoint and identify the problem area better . The engine now has about 400 miles on it, the engine builder has tried twice to seal it up without success, he claims that i will probably have to live with the leaks as it is probably a case of parts that dont fit well together. I plan on dropping the engine soon to do a valve adjustment and clutch, pressure plate upgrade.

Is it possible the shop didn't torque the headstuds properly, and if this is the case, could a re-torque remedy the problem, or will things have to come apart again.

Any suggestions.

79 SC heads, 91 turbo 3.3 pistons and cylinders, Supertec head studs. .8 bar boost.



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Old 10-27-2008, 08:10 AM
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Chappy, did they install RSR "O" rings on the rocker shafts?
Old 10-27-2008, 08:13 AM
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Case through-bolts, perhaps?

EDIT: doubtful, just looked at the pictures again.
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Last edited by sand_man; 10-27-2008 at 08:18 AM..
Old 10-27-2008, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sww914 View Post
Chappy, did they install RSR "O" rings on the rocker shafts?
+1

If you pull your valve covers you will be able to see of the rocker shafts are leaking. Without the RSR o-rings, rebuilt engines are likely to leak here according to Wayne's rebuild book.

I used the o-rings and my number 3 exhaust rocker shaft is weeping - was slightly wet. Without the o-ring, it would probably be leaking quite a bit.
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Old 10-27-2008, 08:19 AM
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I dont know what they used for o rings. I but i am assuming they used ones for an SC.
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Old 10-27-2008, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamchappy View Post
I dont know what they used for o rings. I but i am assuming they used ones for an SC.
The SCs didn't come with them.

If you have seen picks of the rocker shaft you will see two grooves in them. The o-rings fit into these grooves to help seal the shaft. Normally, torquing the shaft will cause them to expand and seal. However, on a rebuilt engine it becomes less likely that they will form the proper seal - hence the o-rings.
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Old 10-27-2008, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamchappy View Post
Here are some underside pictures of the heads where oil is leaking from engine ( same on both sides), i cleaned the engine area up with some brake cleaner because everything was very wet with oil , this may help all of you pinpoint and identify the problem area better . The engine now has about 400 miles on it, the engine builder has tried twice to seal it up without success, he claims that i will probably have to live with the leaks as it is probably a case of parts that dont fit well together. I plan on dropping the engine soon to do a valve adjustment and clutch, pressure plate upgrade.

Is it possible the shop didn't torque the headstuds properly, and if this is the case, could a re-torque remedy the problem, or will things have to come apart again.

Any suggestions.

79 SC heads, 91 turbo 3.3 pistons and cylinders, Supertec head studs. .8 bar boost.

I noticed you're using the '91 cylinders on your build. I have the same type of cylinders on my 3.3 w/3.3 heads. They're weeping between the head and cylinder. These cylinders have a habit of leaking (slightly), mostly due to the amount of surface area between the head and cylinder. I had a post on this site as to what can be done to remedy. Steve@Rennsport replied there's not much that can be done except to disassemble and and have the heads and cylinders ringed. He stated he's done this many times on these cylinders with fantastic results.
To rule out the rocker shafts, I pretty much used the ol' white glove technique. Use a white glove or white cloth and touch the ares outside the rocker shaft. If there's oil, it will show.
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Old 10-27-2008, 09:24 AM
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My leaks are leaking more than slightly, i could never drive it around for a day, and forget about using the heater boxes, after driving the car for a half hour or so the bottom and engine case are very wet and drippy.
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Old 10-27-2008, 09:57 AM
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did you use the green viton o-rings that go in the spigot bores of the C2 930 cylinders?
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Old 10-27-2008, 10:01 AM
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