The Complete Engine Sealant Thread...

[dfink]

Still going to try the hylomar. I guess I don't see why just because it doesn't get hard it is bad. Many others appear to use it with great success. Has anyone tried it and had it wash out or is it just tradition to keep on using the anaerobics. I think the fact that it stays pliable would be a bonus so if needed the case could be retorqued. I guess if you can seal a case with 574 or 1194 then good stick with what works. Didn't work for me so going to try something else. If the case leaks I will take it down again.
Also just a side note on the blue o-rings used on the through bolts. That is about the only place that didn't leak. Had no problems with them and in fact everyone of them but two came back off in tack. Why... I believe it was the archer professional gell lubricant with teflon that I used to assemble. It also made the return tubes slide in so easy that I thought something was wrong. Even the generally stuborn cam shaft o-rings just slid right into place. No leaks on any of those areas.

[1982911SCTarga]

I used Dow Corning 111 on the camshaft O-ring seals, oil return tube O-rings, oil cooler seals, etc. On the cam box and cover gaskets, paper cam gaskets and other gaskets, I used a thin smear of Hylomar. No leaks so far. I also used Hylomar on the cylinder base gaskets. I used Dow Corning 111 to help slip the RSR seals on the rocker shafts, too.

I very much like the ease of disassembly and possible gasket re-usability of the non-hardening sealants like Hylomar and Curil-T.

Brian

[efhughes3]

As inexpensive as gaskets are, I don't think I'd ever reuse one...

[1982911SCTarga]

Perhaps not, but if I'm on the side of the road ...

Brian

[sand_man]

Originally Posted by 1982911SCTarga

I used Dow Corning 111 on the camshaft O-ring seals, oil return tube O-rings, oil cooler seals, etc.
...I used Dow Corning 111 to help slip the RSR seals on the rocker shafts, too

Me too...

[jimbauman]

There was another older thread that talked about Loctite 518 replacing 573/574 - something Warren had recommended. According to the 518 data sheet, as it ages, it increases its resistance to oil, whereas 573/574 decrease their resistance. Lap shear strength compares favorably too. 518 Data sheet is here:

https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/AACE3993B0D66F88882571870000D7DE/$File/518-EN.pdf

574 Data Sheet:

https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/AACE3993B0D66F88882571870000D7DE/$File/574-EN.pdf

JB

[dfink]

The loctite 574 is probably great if the case seals and you never have to take it apart again. Even it it seals you could have to take it apart for other reasons. If you do have to take it apart beware to place lots of time aside for cleanup. The 574 is like friggin super rock. Regardless of what it says even the squeeze out gets hard. The heads were the worst because of all the studs and the springs that you have to go around. I literally had to take a awl and chisle some of the stuff off. I sure hope the hylomar works because I don't want to ever go back to using the anaerobic sealants. Perhaps it is just the 574. I used a peratex sealant on my last engine and I don't remember having the cleanup problem that I had with the 574. Perhaps the threebond is better also.

[OldTee]

Use paint stripper. I will remove 95% on first clean-up.

[Bobboloo]

The best thing for removing old 574 is new 574. If you plan on using it again you don't have to completely remove all of it. The new stuff will melt the old stuff and it will cure again.

I like Threebond 1194 for the case perimeter but Loctite 574 is still my favorite for sealing the cam housings to the heads.

[haycait911]

Originally Posted by dfink

The loctite 574 is probably great if the case seals and you never have to take it apart again. Even it it seals you could have to take it apart for other reasons. If you do have to take it apart beware to place lots of time aside for cleanup. The 574 is like friggin super rock. Regardless of what it says even the squeeze out gets hard. The heads were the worst because of all the studs and the springs that you have to go around. I literally had to take a awl and chisle some of the stuff off. I sure hope the hylomar works because I don't want to ever go back to using the anaerobic sealants. Perhaps it is just the 574. I used a peratex sealant on my last engine and I don't remember having the cleanup problem that I had with the 574. Perhaps the threebond is better also.

I also had a nightmare trying to get off all the old 574 after this.....
bottom end together! (again)
the re-melting thing wouldn't work as there was too much thickness. I'll be using hylomar practically everywhere I can. anyone wanna buy an unopened tube of threebond 1211? I had to rebuild this engine because some genius used silicone to seal the case halves.
well, rod knock no longer a mystery.
the bits plugged most oil passages, and finally a rod bearing started knocking. good thing, anything else would have caused more damage! even with the threebond 1194 I have concerns over the squeeze-out on the inside getting into something it shouldn't. with hylomar, that just is NOT AN ISSUE! I'll use it everywhere I can, and if it does somehow start leaking somewhere. I can console myself in the knowledge that I won't be digging chunks of gunk out of the oil passages next time I tear it down.

[911 tweaks]

*** HAS THE FIRST PAGE BEEN UPDATED ALREADY I.E. ACCURATE AS OF TODAY ?????????
IF NOT, PLEASE REPLY ORIGINAL POSTER AS I BELIEVE YOU ARE THE ONLY ONE ABLE TO EDIT !!!
Thank you, Bob
ps is the list missing any area(s) that need attention or mentioning what to do OR not to do ??

[CBRacerX]

Originally Posted by 911 tweaks

*** HAS THE FIRST PAGE BEEN UPDATED ALREADY I.E. ACCURATE AS OF TODAY ?????????
IF NOT, PLEASE REPLY ORIGINAL POSTER AS I BELIEVE YOU ARE THE ONLY ONE ABLE TO EDIT !!!
Thank you, Bob
ps is the list missing any area(s) that need attention or mentioning what to do OR not to do ??

It is still current.

[Tippy]

Originally Posted by Henry Schmidt

Hylomar never dries completely (non- setting) which makes it inappropriate for long term case sealing. If used as a case sealer, you might get lucky but it's a lot of work to reseal a case so hoping to get lucky seems vacuous to me.
For racing or sport engine that are disassembled on a regular basis it is fine.
The product is basically the same consistency as Curil T and should only be used in similar applications.

In the case of weeping chain box gaskets that had 574 thinly applied a simple retorque may cure your weeping issues.
Cheers

I agree with your theory.

I have used Hylomar for about 10 years (on F-15/16 engines) and I dont think I would use it on 911 case halves.

We use it a lot on the engines but they leak like crazy, plus, constant retorquing is required as it acts squishy under the bolt heads.

In general, anywhere Hylomar is applied usually results in oil leakage.

[dfink]

Hylomar is working well so far. Not a super lot of miles but nearly 30 dyno pulls and few road trips. It has been togeather now for at least a month. No leaks at all that I can tell. Much better results for me anyhow than the 574 which leaked as soon as oil was put in.I may have done it wrong but there were two of us one with the book checking to make sure the other got all the bolts in and torqued.

Chainboxes with 574 will not retorque easily. The 574 will be in there like rock. If you tighten enough to stop a leak you proably just pressed the 574 into the gasket which will eventually just make things worse. If you didn't use a gasket well thats another story.......

I used it and it hasn't leaked. Pretty sure that if I had been using it for 10 years and still couldn't get it to work I would be using something else by now. How much does an F-16 cost these days.

[WERK I]

I agree, using a hardening sealer anywhere a paper gasket is used is unnecessary. Why make more work for yourself when the engine is disassembled in the future? Use Curil-T, Hylomar or any other non-hardening sealer recommended on this thread.
Hope everyone had a safe and enjoyable New Year's.

[Tippy]

Originally Posted by dfink

I used it and it hasn't leaked. Pretty sure that if I had been using it for 10 years and still couldn't get it to work I would be using something else by now. How much does an F-16 cost these days.

In the aviation world, you have to use what is called out by the tech data - no deviation is allowed.

F-15/16's engines run I believe around $2 mil new.

[WERK I]

Yeah, but how many run-time hours between teardowns?

[Henry Schmidt]

Isn't this fun.
Hylomar is not the new "miracle glue". It was a recommended product back in the days when I worked on RollsRoyse engines. We tried it on 911 engine 25 years ago and it proved "inappropriate for long term case sealing." You'll also find it lacking for sealing cam tower to heads. These pieces are rarely flat. I didn't post this information with an ulterior motive, I don't "hate" Hylomar. The purpose of this thread is to provide information that will lead to the greatest likelihood of success.
Trial and error is the best teacher, so experiment away and learn as you go.
Good luck
Cheers

[efhughes3]

Well said Henry, and that is indeed the crux of this thread; as foolproof a way as possible to seal our engines. I don''t plan on building another for some time, and didn't want to experiment on my rebuild last year.

[alniki]

Originally Posted by BURN-BROS

I think Henry has gathered a kit so that you guys can get what you need if you cannot get it from Pelican.

Anybody know what the Loctite 9340 Hysol in Henry's kit was used for?
And what is that grey piece in the central left of the picture?