The Complete Engine Sealant Thread...

[Henry Schmidt]

Originally Posted by ertech

Hi guys
Need a little clarification for what to do for
1-For Intermediate Shaft Cover WITH ORING.... Dow o-ring lube for all o-rings.
2-breather cover ( with or without gasket)..... Gasket with a very thin coat of 574 LocTite
3-turbo injection blocks....Install the gaskets dry... Wrightwood Racing makes special gaskets for this application. Far superior design to factory or Victor Reinz gaskets.
Thanks

Cheers

[ertech]

Thanks
Btw does the oil pressure switch by the oil breather have a sealing ring to it?
Thanks

[theiceman]

Sorry all for bringing up this old thread but I had it saved for when I do my rebuild.

I am working through waynes book, I have alusil so kept the pistons and cyliders together.

it would seem I am to use Curil T on the base gaskets. when putting the pistons and cylinders together. if that were the case am I supposed to do the heads and cam towers all at the same time in order to bolt it all down to get it to seal ? my plan was to put all the pistons and cylinders in , take a break and maybe a day or two later work on the cam tower and heads. I am thinking this will not work now if I have to put it all together due to the sealant on the base gasket and compres it all relatively quickly.

I was thinking of changing the order and putting my heads and cam towers together on the bench and sealing with my 3 bond. that I think can be bolted together, then when I put my cylinders on with my curil T and base gaskets I have my heads and cam tower ready to bolt on, and compress the base gaskets and sealent, means changing the ordr of Waynes book so I thought I would ask. I am doing a head stud reapir only and the heads were fine and the machine shop took nothing off. They just cleaned them up and replaced the seals , said they measured out perfect, point is I don't need to do any preassembly to check clearances.

Thanks for any opinions on my approach.

[VFR750]

Curil-t does not cure. Ever.

So there is no rush on the base gasket.

If you use 574 between the cam tower and heads, you do need to torque those nuts down in less than 1 hour

Reality is, it takes about 15-20 minutes to torque all 18 nuts on one cam tower.

1104/1184 rubber sealant is much more forgiving. It takes days to cure.

[CBRacerX]

I would add that putting the heads on the tower on bench and torquing would not be my first choice. Stick with the Wayne book order.

[KTL]

Curil T on the base gaskets is sort of a belt and suspenders approach to double ensure there's no leaks. But in my limited experience the Curil T is a bit overkill. I've seen three 3.2 Carrera top end jobs that not only reused unbroken dilavar head studs (only disturbance they saw was loosening of nuts for head removal & tightening head nuts for final assembly- studs were left in the case) but also the base gaskets under the cylinders were not replaced. They sealed again OK. I know this because one engine was my '87 done in '06, another is a close local friend's '87 done recently and the third is a friend's '88 done in '06 that I got a close look at in 2014 when he asked me to help him sell it.

My point is, using new base gaskets like you're doing is going to seal good due to the crush/squish of the new gaskets. So the Curil T isn't a must. But it's not going to hurt anything if you do use it. Just don't use it on the crankshaft radial seals!

[theiceman]

great info thank you very much guys, given that the curil t never ever cures, ( I do realize it is overkill ). I will go ahead and put the base gaskets and pistons/cylinders on with a thin smearing of curil T. Then over the next day or so put the heads on and then the cam towers.
I did figure I could just put the heads on the cam tower independently on the bench in the comfort of my basement workshop, and torque down the nuts, but if the general opinion is against this I will do it on the engine directly.
Thanks again.

[KTL]

The heads & cam tower is a personal preference thing. A lot of the guys that do engines all the time prefer to assemble the heads onto the cam housing and then install that assembly as one completed unit. So don't feel like you gotta follow Wayne's book if you prefer the other way. If guys that do this type of work for a living assemble them that way, and their work approach is to avoid customer comeback service/problems because it costs them time and money, then you can feel confident that it's an OK way to approach it.

[arbita1]

Sorry to ask. But there is a lot of info to read through in this thread. Is the below the latest correct method. Is there anywhere this info exists in one location?

Originally Posted by CBRacerX

NEW LIST (I've lost the ability to Edit Post #1 since it is from 2008...)

Outer Case Halves: Threebond 1104 (now 1184)

Bearing Saddle Surfaces: Loctite 574

#8 Bearing (balancer end) O-Ring: Threebond 1211 (now 1215)

Case Thru Bolts: Dow Corning 111 on Green Viton O-Rings

Flywheel Seal: DRY

Balancer Seal: DRY

Intermediate Shaft Cover to Case: ThreeBond 1211 (now 1215)

Oil Breather Cover to Case: ThreeBond 1211 (now 1215)

Cylinders to Case: Curil K-2 or ThreeBond 1211 (now 1215)

Cam Towers to Cylinder Heads: Threebond 1104 (now 1184)

Cam Chain Housings to Case: Threebond 1104 (now 1184)

Cam Chain Housings to Cam Towers: Threebond 1104 (now 1184)

Cam Chain Housing Cover to Cam Chain Housing: Threebond 1104 (now 1184)

Gaskets: Thin coat of Loctite 574

Thanks a lot folks, I really appreciate the feedback!

EDIT: Most Popular solutions for sealing added to each item above to include superseded items.

[efhughes3]

I'd stay clear of 574 for the cam tower to head sealant. Loctite!

[911 tweaks]

+1 to matt... can someone correctly update ALL of the sealants in one list and post a updated list now...

[Lapkritis]

Suggest including Dupont Krytox GPL 207 in the list at least as an alternative as we've shown, ad nauseum, the dow grease widely used actually weakens o-ring strength.

[theiceman]

Originally Posted by Lapkritis

Suggest including Dupont Krytox GPL 207 in the list at least as an alternative as we've shown, ad nauseum, the dow grease widely used actually weakens o-ring strength.

you must be talking about on the through bolt o rings.

i am just going with the list as published on the first pae for now, you are always going to get differing opinions so you have to just decide on a plan and go with it.

[theiceman]

well i just reattached my heads to the cam towers.
Cleaned it with brake cleaner then isopropyl alcohol until the clean room wipes were clean. cracked open my expensive threebond 1104 and holly crap. I squeezed until my head was aboutto pop and nothing came out, brand new too.. i thought maybe i needed to jamb somethign further down and still nothing.

so now what , i reached for the 574, i only had a 1,69oz tube as i just got it for sealing gaskets.. went on a lot easier , i didnt brush or roll it on so i just lay a bead around the openings and two beads from intake to exhaust ... did at two stage torque with 12 then 25 ..NM i did an inspection and saw orange coming out all away around the outside of the hiusing and inside too so i am happy , not sure if i have enough for the other side but we will see.

Whats up with that 1104 ? is it really that hard to work with or did i just have a bad tube ? wasnt cheap either i must say . there is no date code on the box or tube.

[Jeff Alton]

The 1104, or it's later model numbers, comes out like toothpaste...

[JFairman]

Hondabond 4 and Yamabond are both rebranded Threebond. Same slow drying non hardening gasoline resistant grey stuff in a different color tube.
Cleans up easily with wash laquer thinner or brake clean on a rag. It's a little thinner than any toothpaste I've ever used.

I got a tube of it at the local Honda Motorcycle dealer parts counter for less than $7 and used it on the cam tower to head surfaces. It works well with no leaking and I've never seen a Honda or Yamaha motorcycle leaking oil at the case seams.
I works well on the chain cases too.

[theiceman]

i squeezed that 1104 till I thought the tube was going to explode and about a quarter inch came out. I must have been using an old stock tube. Guess i'm going to visit a motorcycle store.

[IXjamesXI]

O shoot. Me too.. it didn't seem right.. thick as hell and did not want to come outta that tube. I wonder if I am screwed.

[theiceman]

Originally Posted by IXjamesXI

O shoot. Me too.. it didn't seem right.. thick as hell and did not want to come outta that tube. I wonder if I am screwed.

EXACTLY what I found, it just did not want to come out no matter how hard I squeezed, and the stuff that did come out seemed vulcanized already to some degree. I got it off ebay so god knows how old it was. I am holding off on my second half. gonna see if I can find some yamabond at the local motorcycle dealer. This 1104 I have is total crap.

[JonT]

not the news I want to hear Im about to seal up my case with a new tube.