My 911 SC Engine Rebuild Thread

[OsoMoore]

Cylinder 3, as seen from the intake manifold, and removing the valve cover.
Video of walk-around and intake manifold views: https://youtu.be/7dkaYhSgfvw

[OsoMoore]

Now I'm waiting a few more days for my engine yoke to arrive so I can put it on the stand. In the meanwhile I have some CV joints to repack and plenty of cleaning to do on the CIS and other removed components.

I'd appreciate any thoughts on what level of rebuild we're looking at here. Also, any tips on cleaning what's come off already!

[Ian Comerford]

You probably should start with the thinking that pieces of metal have circulated around your engine in the oil as a result of the failure. This means a full strip and clean to be sure of removal. Sorry!

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by Ian Comerford

You probably should start with the thinking that pieces of metal have circulated around your engine in the oil as a result of the failure. This means a full strip and clean to be sure of removal. Sorry!

Yeah, we're going to take her to bits I think!

I'm hoping the oil flooding seen in some of the non-smashed cylinders isn't indicative of a larger issue.

[OsoMoore]

On the positive side, I'm quite proud of how cleanly I lifted off the CIS.
After removing the throttle anchor plate and the EGR, it all lifted off together. Helps that I have worked on it extensively in the past.

[OsoMoore]

Yoke arrived, but won't fit on without removing some of the exhaust components. And those have been on for 25 years.

So... this morning I'm picking up a giant shallow tub (for drips) and a nut-buster to get this exhaust off. Hopefully she's mounted on the stand by this evening.

[yelcab1]

Originally Posted by 911 Rod

No offence, but there is now way I would do this. You are now holding up the engine by the 4 holes in the case. When you use the proper yoke it presses against 2/3 of the case and spreads the weight out. The 4 bolts just keep it in position.
My 2 cents worth.

That is why the factory yoke is worth its weight in gold. I bought it 30 years ago and still use it.

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by yelcab1

That is why the factory yoke is worth its weight in gold. I bought it 30 years ago and still use it.

It looks beautiful and is a huge beast. I'll feel a lot better with my expensive engine on it, than on the "universal" system of sliding brackets that comes with the stand.

Now just to get these evil exhaust bolts out. Ran all over town this morning and the only nut buster I could find is too large. Ordered some smaller ones, but won't be in until tomorrow.

[911 Rod]

Going to be a pain getting those bolts off without flipping the engine.

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by 911 Rod

Going to be a pain getting those bolts off without flipping the engine.

Yep, they have been very difficult. Still have 2 left of the 3.

[ant7]

Good progress so far.
However; Like others here I am sure, I'm still waiting for an explanation of why this might have happened, i.e.; missed gear, down shifting at too high an RPM ???
Ant.

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by ant7

Good progress so far.
However; Like others here I am sure, I'm still waiting for an explanation of why this might have happened, i.e.; missed gear, down shifting at too high an RPM ???
Ant.

I was flooring it out of a light, as I usually do, and just about to shift to second. Didn't hit rev limiter, although revs were very high.

I got the bolts off that exhaust section. Combination of PB Blaster, nut buster, and hacksaw. There's still a pipe to the EGR which is needs to be loosened before I can get it free. That is proving to be stuck as well.

[wgirardot]

I had to destroy my heat exchangers with a sawz-all to move on with my project and not compromise exhaust studs. Carry on


Bill

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by wgirardot

I had to destroy my heat exchangers with a sawz-all to move on with my project and not compromise exhaust studs. Carry on


Bill

That's horrifying! I think with blaster and some time I'll be able to get this last connection up to the EGR out of the way, and get it mounted on the stand.

[PeteKz]

There's an olde tool called a nut-splitter. It was made for rusted and eroded nuts on exhaust systems. You might try that.

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

There's an olde tool called a nut-splitter. It was made for rusted and eroded nuts on exhaust systems. You might try that.

I did get the nut splitter, although I'm going to need something else for this connector to the EGR tube.

But I was able to remove the cat and squeeze the yoke past the exhaust pipe. Now I just need to get some spacers and bolt it on, probably this evening.

Then I'll try using my motorcycle jack and build a platform with bricks and such to work the engine up high enough to mount on the stand.

[rwest]

For spacers, I used plumbing pipe nipples; they come in many lengths and seemed to be strong enough.

[ant7]

Originally Posted by OsoMoore

I was flooring it out of a light, as I usually do, and just about to shift to second. Didn't hit rev limiter, although revs were very high.

[OsoMoore]

She's on the stand! I used a metal spacer I found in my parts bin, along with 2 large nuts stolen from the stock engine stand. Getting it onto the stand was a real bear. I ended up using some ramps to make a high "shelf" and set the engine on it with the motorcycle lift. Then I put the lift higher up and stacked some blocks and lifted the engine again higher, this time with a stilt to the stand's angle.

[OsoMoore]

She's on the stand! I used a metal spacer I found in my parts bin, along with 2 large nuts stolen from the stock engine stand. Getting it onto the stand was a real bear. I ended up using some ramps to make a high "shelf" and set the engine on it with the motorcycle lift. Then I put the lift higher up and stacked some blocks and lifted the engine again higher, this time with a stilt to the stand's angle.



Then she went right on (and started dripping some more).