Ultimate Backdating Thread

[Brother]

Well then, it probably isn't going back in the car. I like the look, and the console is beyond useless.

I have two gauges in it at this time. A voltmeter and a Oil temp gauge. I think these could go where the radio was.

[Eric L.]

Has anyone actually finished their backdating project? If so, please post some picks -- I could use the motivation.

Thanks,

Eric L.

[Porsche Doc]

I want to build a 73 RSR look out of 964. Talk about a Bastard
Any one out there won't one? I think it be real cool man.

[Joeaksa]

Originally posted by Eric L.
Has anyone actually finished their backdating project? If so, please post some picks -- I could use the motivation.

Thanks,

Eric L.

Eric,

How about this? The car is finished and driving now, just not painted yet. Going to wait until its a bit cooler (was 112 today here) before doing the paint.

There are a lot of finished backdated cars out there, I just went a bit futher than most and actually grafted a '72 model front section onto my '85 model car so that its just like an early car.

Photos are here, 2/3rds down the page.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/128251-help-build-photo-reference-factory-lightweight-911-a-post2016271.html#post2016271

Joe A

[SLO-BOB]

Further motivation for DIYers-Just read (Pano) about an outfit in the UK that converts late 70s 911s into early 70s 911s, i.e. "backdating". They charge 30,000 pounds for the conversion .

[MotoSook]

That would be AutoFarm...thems are pricey! Anyone want a backdate...come on over! I need a nudge to go MotoMotions-full-time! Esp. at those prices.

[Ed Bighi]

There are reasons for that price. For one, Autofarm isn't cheap. Over the years, they have probably worked on more authentic rs 2.7's and rsr 2.8's than any other shop on this planet. So they do know a thing or two about how an authentic rs should feel like. They are not concentrating so much on outright speed, even though their cars quite fast, but authentic feel instead. They also do a beautiful job which involves a full, every nut and bolt restoration of the car. Nothing is left untouched. So the buyer essentially gets a virtually brand new car. And this at UK labor rates. Considering the price rise of authentic carrera rs's in the last few months, which is nowhere near under 100K, Autofarm's prices start to seem feasible.

[Eric L.]

Joe,

Your car looks great, I'd love to see it when it gets painted. BTW, what are you going to do for springs?

Eric

[Joeaksa]

Eric,

Which springs are you asking about? The torsion bars or ??

JoeA

[Eric L.]

Should have said T-Bars. Once you removed all that bumper weight, the car appears that it needs to be lowered somewhat. Can you simply adjust the torsion bars to lower the car? Or do you need to replace them?

Thanks,

Eric

[MotoSook]

Eric, you'll have to re-index the fronts, and maybe the rears to (if the adjustable springplates can get you down to your desired height...otherwise..re-index). Might as well refresh the suspension with new bushings while you are re-indexing the torsion bars....(more so the rear than the front).

[Joeaksa]

Eric,

Souk is correct. When you do a process like this its really best to make sure you have a good suspension underneath you. I could just lower the car a bit but the stock T-bars would not be happy with a lower weight and another 75 hp.

Need to go up in t-bars, probably 21-22 mm front and 29-30 rears and again as Souk said, refresh all the bushings front and rear. The car is now 20 years old and even without the engine swap its probably past time. Will do this in 6-8 weeks when it gets cooler.

Drove the car yesterday and its just too damm hot without a/c! Still fun...

Joe A

[SLO-BOB]

Okay-I'm in. I've decided to go ahead and backdate my 77. I won't cut any sheetmetal but I want to go with the ducktail and oil cooler opening air-dam-I'm sure there's a cool, in-the-know term for this. Once I do the long hood, ducktail, and dam, will it replicate any kind of Porsche? RS perhaps?

Because I also intend to add lightness, I'm using all glass. I've read this thread backwords and front, but could I get one last piece of feedback as to who I should get the whole enchilada from? I'm talkin hood, bumpers, fenders, airdam/bumper, and trunklid.

Right now I'm having my suspension pre-tweaked (new wheels and tires, camber adjust, turbo tie-rods, etc) by the local Porsche race guys. I'll wait on shocks, bars, and corner balance until the glass is on and the pounds are off. I'm sure I'll have to re-lower the car also.

Here's the goal-Lose weight, add power, firm up suspension.

Accomplished by fiberglass backdate, suspension improved for occasional track use using heavier sway bars, better shocks and 16x7 wheels and 50 series tires, etc., motor tweaked to put out about 200-225 HP, lower ring and pinion gearing, Recaro Pole Position seats, backseat delete (any sources for a kit?) Anything else I should consider?

All comments and suggestions are welcome.

[Joeaksa]

I was very happy with MA Shaw. Mike would spend an hour on the phone with me if it was needed and was very helpful. Quality and price were very good and am happy with his products.

BTW, you do not "add lightness," you remove weight! Not sure how you are going to do the rear without cutting out the bulkhead that is in the way but it sure looks better backdated.

Anytime you want to go fast, do the brakes and suspension first. You will need it without any power increase and after you make the car lighter and add more power then you are ready. Nothing worse than a fast car whose suspension or brakes are not up to the power and speed.

Joe a

[SLO-BOB]

I didn't see the part where one has to cut the bulkhead. What is that about?

Do you have a link for MA Shaw?

I'm addressing the suspension prior to the backdate. The brakes are already excellent imo. Reduce weight and they'll even be better.

"Adding Lightness" is an oft quoted Colin Chapmanism.

[Highfield]

Originally posted by Series900
Rick is right on in price. complete package, hood,fender extensions(wrap around to accept die cast or frp light hsngs over to horn grilles), light buckets, bumpers, all bolt on, 2500, still need lenses horn grilles and gaskets/rubbers, and I will take care of those that are willing to step up. I put many hours in perfecting these and many other parts, and am sure of the results. RCM's car is awesome, wait till you see my previously rolled over RSA backdated...

Damon stopped posting on this thread ! Are these available, and can they be shipped to the UK ? Many thanks.

[Joeaksa]

Originally posted by Sebring77
I didn't see the part where one has to cut the bulkhead. What is that about?

Do you have a link for MA Shaw?

I'm addressing the suspension prior to the backdate. The brakes are already excellent imo. Reduce weight and they'll even be better.

"Adding Lightness" is an oft quoted Colin Chapmanism.

Sorry, did not see this email.

http://www.mashaw.com/

Quoted on their site, they say that they make all of their body parts and do not buy them from anyone. Not sure but I know that their quality is excellent.

JoeA

[Joeaksa]

Originally posted by Highfield
Damon stopped posting on this thread ! Are these available, and can they be shipped to the UK ? Many thanks.

Last I heard Damon was swamped with business and did not spend lots of time on the forum. I want to buy some of the stuff from him as well and cannot get ahold of him.

If you do pls let us know.

JoeA

[blue72s]

Souk, OK I found the pictures. Thanks.




Question: Is it possible to install a real OEM pre-73 rubber seal on that panel of such a backdated car?


As a point of reference, this is what real pre-73 looks like:

[schubee]

Has anyone heard from Damon? Is he still offering the front light conversion and the modified fiberglass long hood?

Regards,