Ultimate Motor Oil Thread or Why we hate CJ4/SM oils

[Roby466]

Hi, I have been using Liqui Moly Synthoil 5w40 in pretty much everything and then I took some time to read this thread up (not quite all 107 pages of it I have to admit) and got worried. I wrote to the Liqui Moly rep and here what he has written back. Interesting but could be a sales pitch too.

Dear Mr. Roberge,

thank you very much for your mail and for your interest in Liqui Moly products.

For motor oils of years ago, the ZDDP content was very important. Today, the high performance Liqui Moly motor oils like the Synthoil 5W-40, has a zinc content from around 1100 ppm. That is today more as enough. because there are other additives inside which are also working against friction and wear and so, the zinc content has not to be as high, from around 1600 ppm, as years ago. A lower zinc content including the today high performance additives are working in more than the same way against friction and wear! So, in today high performance motor oils there is not an as high zinc content necessary as years ago!

Following motor oils are perfect for your cars:
- Porsche 911 turbo 1985
=> Synthoil Premium 5W-40, part-no. LM 2041 - 5 liter
=> Touring High Tech 20W-50, part-no. LM20114 - 5 liter

- Land Rover Defender 110 td5 2000 (diesel)
=> Synthoil Energy 0W-40, part-no. LM 2050 - 5 liter

- Land Rover Discovery 2004 (V8 petrol)
=> Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40, part-no. LM 2331 - 5 liter
=> Synthoil Premium 5W-40, part-no. LM 2041 - 5 liter

- Audi allroad 2002 (petrol, turbo)
=> Synthoil Energy 0W-40, part-no. LM 2050 - 5 liter
=> Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40, part-no. LM 2331 - 5 liter
=> Synthoil Premium 5W-40, part-no. LM 2041 - 5 liter

If you want to do more against friction and wear, so you can add to each engine the Liqui Moly CERA TEC, part-no. LM20002 - 300 ml, in optimal dosage from 6,5 till 8% to the motor oil volume or the Liqui Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment, part-no. LM2009 - 300 ml, in optimal dosage from 5% to the motor oil volume

If you have any more question, please contact us again!

[trond]

I am looking for a suitable synthetic 5w-40 for my 80 SC and this one seem to fit the bill with 1300 ppm zinc; Mobil 1™ Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40

Any viewpoints on that ?

cold climate, no track use.

[adias]

Originally Posted by Roby466

...
If you want to do more against friction and wear, so you can add to each engine the Liqui Moly CERA TEC, part-no. LM20002 - 300 ml, in optimal dosage from 6,5 till 8% to the motor oil volume or the Liqui Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment, part-no. LM2009 - 300 ml, in optimal dosage from 5% to the motor oil volume

...

I have been adding Liqui-Moly MoSO2 and the engine runs quieter at idle. It is a solid lubricant which coats and stays on moving parts which should help with cold starts.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by trond

I am looking for a suitable synthetic 5w-40 for my 80 SC and this one seem to fit the bill with 1300 ppm zinc; Mobil 1™ Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40

Any viewpoints on that ?

cold climate, no track use.

Pennrite HPR5

They also have an excellent article on oil, well worth reading it's in their catalog ~p28
Catalog

and yes the Mobil 1™ Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 also fits the bill, 1100ppm P & 1300ppm Zn

[Trackrash]

Originally Posted by adias

I have been adding Liqui-Moly MoSO2 and the engine runs quieter at idle. It is a solid lubricant which coats and stays on moving parts which should help with cold starts.

This sounds like it might be worth looking into.

What do the experts have to say about this?

[911 tweaks]

great info bill... have you ever tried any of the Pennrite oils?? if so, which one(s) and your experience...?
how is price and where in usa can it be bought?

[BSNMOE]

For years I've been using Mobil-1 V-twin in my 73S. The last oil change I mixed that with Mobil-1 15W-50 because of my concern with the extreme high level of zn/ph.
After reading this thread I find that both of these are far down the ranking.

Today I changed the oil and used 0W-40 Mobil 1 "FS" European Car Formula which ranks #5. My reason is I live in SW Florida and it's never real cold and also I have an upgraded 3.2 Carrera oil pump so I have great pressure. The 0W should help on start up as my car sits for a few weeks at times and I'll have 40 W on hot days. It was around 70 deg out today and I got oil temp up to around 195 deg and saw no change in oil pressure at idle and 5,000 rpms.
I also did not detect any more engine noise while at idle which I thought maybe it would as it poured pretty thin.










i

[pmax]

Found this thread's equivalent over at RL.

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/863862-porsche-classic-motor-oil-explained-by-porsche-guys-3.html

Post #35 is technically very interesting , #61 says it all !

[Superman]

So...what motor oil should I use?

Engine and tank are dry now. She'll be back on the road in a few weeks. The engine was freshened a few years ago, so I think I can use synthetic, but I have preferred to just change the oil often enough. I often times have used Valvoline racing 20/50. It sounds like I need the ZN/whatever additive. What are my choices in the local auto parts stores? Castrol GTX? Valvoline? What oils have the ZN/Whatever additives today?

[Halm]

This. https://www.amazon.com/Brad-Penn-Oil-009-7119-12PK-Synthetic/dp/B003TPB3ZY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526211193&sr=8-2&keywords=brad+penn+20w50+racing+oil

[Harpo]

That is what I just bought

[911 tweaks]

Unless something has changed in the past year or so and I missed it, the Joe Gibbs Driven oils as also highly recommended on LN Engr site is what I use and recommend.
Also recommended by many top engine builders...
What is paramount with use and maintenance of engines is correct oil weight for temperature s operating in AND frequent changes by time or miles driven.
All in all, most pcars, especially older cars r driven btwn 100 and 3000 per year.
ALL operators under this umbrella I highly recommend to change the oil 2x per year...
Many many benefits of doing such in addition to changing oil such as to check this car over and look for leaks, things needing repair, something damaged, etc...

[adias]

On a 3.2 I switched from Brad Penn 20W50 to Valvoline VR1 20W50 racing and after 1,000 miles oil consumption decreased significantly.

[gwinnch]

adias,
synthetic or dinosaur VR1?

[adias]

Originally Posted by gwinnch

adias,
synthetic or dinosaur VR1?

Mineral VR1. But now I am leaning towards Liqui Moly Touring High Tech 20W50 (also a mineral oil) and MoS2 added.

[kyngfish]

I don’t understand the benefit of the high viscosity oils (20w50). Can someone sound off on why this would be desirable when starting up a cold car? I understand the 50 or even 60 weight portion when oil is warm. But not higher viscosity at cold temp.

Seems like it should be the other way around. Mcar consistently runs better on startup with the 15w oils than the 20w. And I have no proof, but I believe the brad penn was not a great idea in my 3.2. Now I’m considering going to the 10w options. Why would we want a thicker oil on startup?

[HaroldMHedge]

VR1 20W-50 is available on both dinosaur and synthetic.

[MrBonus]

Is anyone still running Kendall?

[Trackrash]

Originally Posted by kyngfish

I don’t understand the benefit of the high viscosity oils (20w50). Can someone sound off on why this would be desirable when starting up a cold car? I understand the 50 or even 60 weight portion when oil is warm. But not higher viscosity at cold temp.

Seems like it should be the other way around. Mcar consistently runs better on startup with the 15w oils than the 20w. And I have no proof, but I believe the brad penn was not a great idea in my 3.2. Now I’m considering going to the 10w options. Why would we want a thicker oil on startup?

Depends. If you are street driving, then 15-40 is a popular option. In really cold weather, I imagine 10-40 would be fine on the street.

These air cooled motors tend to have larger tolerances than more modern motors, thus the heavier oils.

I ran 15-40 Rotella dino for decades with great results. Mostly street driving and my motor never got above 190-200 degrees.

Now that I track my car, sometimes in hot weather, I use 20-50. I will warm it up before screaming the motor, however.

[kyngfish]

Originally Posted by Trackrash

Depends. If you are street driving, then 15-40 is a popular option. In really cold weather, I imagine 10-40 would be fine on the street.

These air cooled motors tend to have larger tolerances than more modern motors, thus the heavier oils.

Thanks for the feedback. I definitely understand the tolerances but I still don’t get why we want a higher viscosity in a cold car (warm weather). Given the high tolerances in warm weather I would have thought that 10 w 60 (which is also now what the Porsche classic stuff is - as well as the liqui moly) would be better. Lubricates the engine quickly when starting up, and then stays thicker as the oil gets hot to cut down on burning.