Ultimate Motor Oil Thread or Why we hate CJ4/SM oils

[O' yeah"74]

Thanks all for the feedback. I looked for Swepco 306 online and found it in a couple of places. The cheapest I found it for was $7.95 per Qt and couldn't find a price by the case. I will check the link provided above. Previous oil change and valve adjustment was done shortly before I purchased this car, at Brewsters automotive. They used Castrol GTX with the Swepco oil improver, I won't use Castrol as I've read it breaks down quicker (around 3000mi). The engine was rebuilt at Aase motors about 7,000mi ago. The notes I read from the shop recommend using Valvoline or Mobil 1. I have also reads that too much ZDDP can be a bad thing so I had better pay attention to how much I add if any to certain oil. My car recently started running hotter than I would like and the oil pressure stays too high (205-215 temp and 100psi oil pressure at 2,800-3,000 rpm) however the oil looks good and the levels are correct. I hoping I'll see more appropriate running temps and pressure after the change. Thanks again to all for the input.

[manbridge 74]

Hmm.. not sure oil difference will change your temp/pressures much. For reference my 74 is about 50psi at 3K rpm and 195F temp checked last Saturday.

[O' yeah"74]

I read that the Castrol GTX suffers from viscosity break down quicker than other oils in this application (around 3000mi or so). My uneducated guess was that more friction = more heat, the pressure part has me stumped as I would assume pressure would go down with a higher oil temp. FYI the current oil has 2000 mi on it and the color is good but it's over a year old, maybe something about its age or possible moisture from condensation has affected the viscosity hence affecting the pressure. (?????)

[Storage Man]

O yeah,

+1 with "Get the best oil you can find."

If your oil is over a year old it needs to be changed due to break down and moisture but also acid build up over time running through the engine. Lots pelicans like Brad Penn and the others listed here on page one of this thread. My shop recomends Mobile 1 15w-50 only and BP for all the reasons you have already read about. Mobile 1 15w-50 lists is Zink content at 1200 on there FAQ but I think what they have published lacks credibility due to the API compliance for this grade.

The oil pressure issue I am not sure is related to the oil its self but you might start a new thread on the subject to get some good info.

[O' yeah"74]

Thanks all. I guess I'll order the Brad Penn or Swepco 306 or Valvoline VR-1. But I'm thinking the Swepco 505 oil improver i have is redundant and possibly harmful to add. I'll have to research more.

[bkreigsr]

Originally Posted by Storage Man

...If your oil is over a year old it needs to be changed due to break down and moisture but also acid build up over time running through the engine. ...

I sent my last oil drop from my 930 out for analysis. The oil (Brad-Penn) had been in the car 2 years, 4 months, but accumulated only 943 miles (garage queen). There was no moisture, no acid and the TBN was at 7 (greater than 1 is considered okay). They recommend that I keep the oil in for 3,000 miles, rather drop it based solely on the calender.
YMMV
Bill K

[Storage Man]

Great info Bill.
thanks!
BP is good stuff.
Based on my communications with people I am not sure why the one year guide line exists. Selling more oil?!

[O' yeah"74]

Awesome. BP it is. This place is an great resource for info. You guys are smart and dedicated (or sick and addicted ) I'm not sure which LOL. Either way thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge.

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by bkreigsr

I sent my last oil drop from my 930 out for analysis. The oil (Brad-Penn) had been in the car 2 years, 4 months, but accumulated only 943 miles (garage queen).

There was no moisture, no acid and the TBN was at 7 (greater than 1 is considered okay).

They recommend[ed] that I keep the oil in for 3,000 miles, rather drop it based solely on the calender.
YMMV
Bill K

just to make sure everyone sees this

[James Brown]

and with that, close the thread i think were done

[bkreigsr]

referenced report:
Bill K

[richardlw]

Since I analyze hundreds of oils every year, I'm going to add a comment to that analysis. The results may be within the averages they see, so they don't show them up as alarms, but on a proactive basis I will say that the lead and copper you see is corrosion from the bearings and pins, maybe oil cooler if it has one. I don't pretend to be an expert on the 930 specifically.

Copper and Lead are abnormal in levels over 1 or 2 ppm for good engine life. Amounts over that are caused by low viscosity when fuel gets in, or by sitting for long periods with oil not circulating.

Yes, there is still TBN left. But when the oil sits for a long period (I too have cars that sit), there are areas where a few molecules of acidic oil are sitting in the bearings, or the turbo or cooler drains and lets air at the brass bearings. Corrosion grows at those points.

It is especially accelerated if the engine is started frequently to charge the battery or circulate the oil, but not driven a good 10 to 15 miles to burn off the moisture. I used to do that (or have someone do it). Now I just park it and disconnect the battery, telling my brother-in-law that if he can, once a month drive it the 15 miles to the city and back. Those are highway miles.

Also important is (when you can) that when you are going to store it for the winter or something, you change the oil first, let is circulate, and turn store it. Never store with old oil.

[bkreigsr]

Thanks for the feedback Richard.
Your insight is always welcome.
Bill K

[72T]

FWIW, I just came out of NAPA 20/50, which I found leaked out of the engine seals quite a bit more than the Castrol GTX that preceded it. I'm now running VR1 and the drips have greatly reduced. An extra bonus along with the zinc...

[333pg333]

Originally Posted by James Brown

sure, one more: http://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/oils_and_zddp.pdf the idea is to inform everyone of the problem, as you can see, it effects many engines foreign and domestic.

The question I have for these people that come along and suggest people wanting to use a suitable oil on the basis of solid ZDDP etc numbers are just joining a knee jerk internet craze and that all the evidence is anecdotal...well unless it's carried out under strict Lab conditions, then most 'evidence' can be deemed anecdotal. In my mind this across the board grouping of those that discuss oil wear issues include people like Steve, Charles, Bruce Buchanan and others who have many many combined years of in the field work on our cars. Many of the naysayers would count their 'evidence' as anecdotal. Short of the aforementioned Lab analysis I believe that these guys have gathered enough information with direct contact to these motors to allow their information to come under the window of Evidence.

[CatsEyes]

If you're in Australia, I'd recommend Penrite HPR30, which is appropriate for our cars, and is often on special at very good prices:

Penrite Oil - A Better Class Of Oil

(Repco is Sydney recently had it on sale at $28 for 5 litres.)

In case the fact that it meets the API SM specification scares you, read the following technical bulletin from Penrite, which is a good deal clearer than much of the loudly-expressed opinion in this thread, IMHO:

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/images/PENR0138_Penrite_Zinc%20Tech%20Bulletin.pdf

[HarryD]

CatsEyes

Thanks for the information. You are correct that many of the heavier oils can have enough of the "good stuff" but many of the oils offered have the same additive package regardless of weight. One needs to be diligent to ensure you get a product with shat you need.

[richardlw]

Thanks for posting that Penrite article. It is probably one of the most comprehensive and correct summaries of the real formulation and protection advances.

[gearya]

I am sorry if this repeats something I missed form reading this very long thread, but what is the least-expensive, most-easily available oil I can use for several thousand miles without draining it?

[Jim Garfield]

Originally Posted by gearya

I am sorry if this repeats something I missed form reading this very long thread, but what is the least-expensive, most-easily available oil I can use for several thousand miles without draining it?

If you are in the US, Brad Penn is probably your best bet.