Ultimate Motor Oil Thread or Why we hate CJ4/SM oils - Page 58

333pg333 · 333pg333's Garage

Thanks Charles. Obviously it gets pretty warm down here in Australia but during winter that may be too high of a visc. level perhaps?

sp_cs · 05-26-2009, 01:53 PM

Charles - thoughts on Mobil 5w/50?

Appears to be an Australian only blend, though available in the UK through e bay

http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_5W-50.asp#ProductDescriptionTitle

Thanks

cnavarro · 05-26-2009, 02:12 PM

Not a big fan of the 5w50, even less than of m1 15w50. It's high temp high shear viscosity isn't much better than a non-syn 15w40 and there are many 5w40 semi or full syn oils that would provide better protection.

Yeah, I would say that you shouldn't run a 25w60 in the winter unless it's a warm one. I'm sure you also know the kind of clearances you run - an oil of that viscosity probably needs greater bearing clearances. Watching peak oil pressure hot would definitely indicate whether or not it's too thick.

sp_cs · 05-26-2009, 02:17 PM

thanks for the quick reply Charles, will stick with the Motul 300v for now

cheers

333pg333 · 333pg333's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by cnavarro

Not a big fan of the 5w50, even less than of m1 15w50. It's high temp high shear viscosity isn't much better than a non-syn 15w40 and there are many 5w40 semi or full syn oils that would provide better protection.

Yeah, I would say that you shouldn't run a 25w60 in the winter unless it's a warm one. I'm sure you also know the kind of clearances you run - an oil of that viscosity probably needs greater bearing clearances. Watching peak oil pressure hot would definitely indicate whether or not it's too thick.

What's the downside of running a thick oil? I imagine fuel economy would suffer, but this is for a track application.

cnavarro · 05-27-2009, 04:44 AM

With the thicker oil, you'll have less flow and thus higher oil pressure (or resistance to flow).

Tighter operating clearances allow for lower viscosities while maintaining adequate pressure, but that alone doesn't make up for the lower film strength of thinner oils, so it's a catch 22.

nut11 · 05-27-2009, 03:10 PM

Ain't that the truth... Thx, Charles.

87 blk coupe

BT911 · 06-12-2009, 07:02 AM

Charles, have you heard of AP Fischer Oil. they have a classic car oil that a 20w-50 that has a lot of Zinc in it. http://www.apfischer.com/ what do you think?

cnavarro · 06-12-2009, 01:53 PM

Never heard of them, but there are lots of smaller oil companies out there. I wonder if it's made for them by someone else, as they also carry other brands as well and look like they may just be a warehouse distributor? I could not find any specs on the products on their site, but I didn't spend too long looking to be honest.

BT911 · 06-12-2009, 04:03 PM

i wonder how their oil would stand up against Brad Penn or Swepco

bkreigsr · 06-25-2009, 07:44 AM

My last oil analysis from Blackstone showed a flash point of my Brad Penn (20/50 racing) at >385 deg, which I compared to my prior change with Valvoline (VR1 20/50 racing) with a flashpoint of 410 deg.

Is this a bad thing?

Also, the sodium was 64 times higher (193 vs 3) and the magnesium was 34 times higher (443 vs 13) everything else was comparable. I assume these numbers have something to do with the additive package they use that makes B-P more air-cooled friendly?

thanks
Bill K
__________________

cnavarro · 06-29-2009, 07:58 AM

The sodium and magnesium as found in the Brad Penn are part of the detergent package and are substituted for the more aggressive (and cheaper) calcium-based products.

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

so, Na and Mg are better than Ca based compounds?

- can you expand on that?

thx!

cnavarro · 07-01-2009, 08:05 AM

There are papers specifically on this topic in the SAE. I'll give a recap, as the answer to your question is buried in the dozens of pages of this thread.

Ca based detergents are more thermally stable (they last longer) and many orders of magnitude cheaper than Na and Mg detergents, so they are the preferred choice for most modern oils.

The problem with Ca based detergents is that they are more aggressive as they do a better job keeping things clean on long drain intervals, but also can strip the anti-wear film off wear surfaces.

There are some oils out there, including Brad Penn Racing and Motul 300V, that use Na and Mg in addition to reduced levels of Ca detergents to maintain the required cleanliness that an API SH or SJ rated oil calls for.

ClickClickBoom · ClickClickBoom's Garage

Hey,
Anyone thought of this:
http://www.avblend.com/faa/kas_thomas_lenckite.html
or this:
http://www.skygeek.com/telyenoilad6.html, you can get this at your local airport, FBO or Aircraft Spruce.
eric

RWebb · RWebb's Garage

thx Charles - I did get buried in the 58 pages - read them all but did not retain all...

68redlines73 · 07-02-2009, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkreigsr

My last oil analysis from Blackstone showed a flash point of my Brad Penn (20/50 racing) at >385 deg, which I compared to my prior change with Valvoline (VR1 20/50 racing) with a flashpoint of 410 deg.

Is this a bad thing?

Also, the sodium was 64 times higher (193 vs 3) and the magnesium was 34 times higher (443 vs 13) everything else was comparable. I assume these numbers have something to do with the additive package they use that makes B-P more air-cooled friendly?

thanks
Bill K
__________________

The ASTM repeatability and reproducibility allowances for the flash point test (assuming COC) are respectively 8 and 16 degrees C. Since these are two separate testing instances, reproducibility comes into play. Converting F to C, 410F and 385F become 210C and 196C. The difference is 14C which is within the reproducibility limits. Also, I note that the lab listed the lower value as >385F which most likely means that they didn't test the oil to its limit. You should be fine relative to flash point.

TCB · 06:35 PM

I have not been running synthetic oil in my 84 and don't want to go to synthetic. After reading for hours on this thread I have yet to know what the best non synthetic oils are. Am I right that Brad Penn is a synthetic blend? and what would that do to my gaskets. It doesn't leak a drop now and I don't want it to start. If brad Penn is a non synthetic oil, does anyone know where it can be found around the Hamilton Ont, area. I filled out their question form but no response yet.

Thanks
Terry

Porsche_monkey · 07-03-2009, 03:16 AM

Brad Penn can be ordered locally. Go to the Canadian forum and search under my name. PM me if you can't find it, I live fairly close to you. I have a dozen bottles in stock.

Brad Penn is now a semi-synthetic (I think), I doubt that it will cause you any issues with your engine.

Porsche_monkey · 07-03-2009, 03:17 AM

Brad Penn can be ordered locally. Go to the Canadian forum and search under my name. PM me if you can't find it, I live fairly close to you. I have a dozen bottles in stock.

Brad Penn is now a semi-synthetic (I think), I doubt that it will cause you any issues with your engine.