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Hey Max,
Impressive list of mods on your car!! Must be amazing. I hear what you are saying, too much is too much. I have never been one to do consistent oil analysis simply because I hate going to the post office to send packages off, but if I can find a local place to analyze, then that's what I'll do to make sure the oil is fine. However, I think you also have to take into account that even a 2003 530 was designed several years before that (especially the engine), and was probably designed with then current oil specifications, so something like VR1 or mobil mxt might have more ZDDP than needed, but not to the point where it's detrimental to the engine, in my opinion. |
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As a user of 15W-40 API Service CJ-4/SM oil (such as Rotella T), in my flat tappet engines, I'm a little confused and concerned by the secondary title of this topic (i.e. "Why we hate CJ4/SM oils"). I realize the Zn and Ph levels were decreased somewhat when the spec evolved from CI-4 to CI-4+ to CJ-4, but my understanding is that the CJ-4 oils are a reasonable choice for our engines. Yes, no, maybe???
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Harry 1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus" 1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here} 1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey" 2020 MB E350 4Matic |
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The specimens hit the spec or not....
Doyle
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Recording Engineer, Administrator and Entrepeneur Designer of Fine Studios, Tube Amplifier Guru 1989 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe 25th Anniversary Special Edition Middle Georgia |
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Right, that's my understanding, and I don't believe the CJ-4 spec has changed at all since it was first enacted a few years ago. Furthermore, more understanding is that, in general, the API specs have gotten much tighter, to the point that it doesn't much matter which brand of CJ-4 oil you use - they're all pretty much the same.
To that end, I just noticed the other day that Motorcraft now has a 5 qt. bottle, as opposed to the 4 qt that most all the other CJ-4's come in. That may be reason enough for me to prefer it.
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Brad |
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A nose heavy airplane flies poorly, a tail heavy plane flies once. |
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Max Sluiter
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So cute.
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
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That said, I'm sure it would make your motor just purr.
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Steve Weiner Rennsport Systems Portland Oregon (503) 244-0990 porsche@rennsportsystems.com www.rennsportsystems.com |
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I especially like the square container with the convienent carrying handle.
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Harry 1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus" 1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here} 1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey" 2020 MB E350 4Matic |
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My daughter would approve.
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Charles Navarro President, LN Engineering and Bilt Racing Service http://www.LNengineering.com Home of Nickies, IMS Retrofit, and IMS Solution |
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clearly, "a gip".
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STONE '88 Cabriolet, using EP Slick 20w50 partial synthetic Snake Oil...just as Rommel intended. ![]() Deny Everything; Admit Nothing; and Always Make Counter-accusations ![]() |
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So now a question of a different sort...
My DD is a 2009 Ford Focus with a 2.0L engine. I am planning on driving this little gas saver until the wheels fall off. What amount of ZDDP would be okay without killing the cat-conv? I use Brad Penn in the 911 but was thinking Mobile 1 Euro spec since I believe it has higher zinc values but not enough to cause problems with the cat. Or is there a better oil for a little DD?
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'82 911 SC track car - SOLD '86 944 NA - SOLD '01 Boxster S |
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Thanks, I've always used Mobil 1 on all my vehicles but heard people talking about ZDDP with other DD and not just Porsches so got me thinking. Thanks for the response.
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'82 911 SC track car - SOLD '86 944 NA - SOLD '01 Boxster S |
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Just keep using M1 but next change send a sample in to Blackstone to see what they say concerning contaminants and change interval recommendations.. good info to have.
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There is no real advantage to using Mobil 1 in a Ford Focus unless you want a 10k oil change interval. Youre just throwing money away. Its like running premium fuel in this vehicle. These cars were designed to run regular conventional or at most semi-syn oil and regular cheap gas. Its a ford focus.. If this were a Turbo like a VW Passat 2.0T or GTI or other more performance oriented vehicle than I could see the justification. You take this to a ford dealer for an oil change they are not putting $6 / Qt oil in there with their 31.99 oil change. They are probably using Quaker State / Castrol / Pennzoil or some other rebadged oil. Honda uses Conventional Mobil oil. Its just rebadged to say Honda.
FWIW, i have a 2010 Passat 2.0T and the dealer service manager told me that they use Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic oil not because its superior oil, but becasue it allows them to stretch the oil change interval to 10k miles and they are free for the first 36k miles... They used to use semi Syn oil in their shop, but then the change interval was 5k miles. The use of Mobil 1 in VW dealers is an economic choice, not a quality of oil choice although i am sure that the Turbo cars/GTI's benefit from great protection as well... Save your money. Just my .02.
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. Last edited by brads911sc; 06-23-2010 at 08:36 AM.. |
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Like you note, going with super expensive stuff does not buy you much. Buy the lesser stuff and change more often.
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Harry 1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus" 1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here} 1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey" 2020 MB E350 4Matic |
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My DD is an 05 Focus ST. That little car runs like a top. I use either Mobile 1 or Castrol Syntec... depends on what is easier to get. I figure its worth buying the synthetic and spending an extra couple of bucks per oil change to buy a little bit of engine life. I figure I'm going to run that poor little car until it won't run anymore. Using decent oil is least I can do.
As a side note, I don't put expensive gas in there... spec is for regular and more octane is wasting money. Living close to work, I usually go off of months, not miles. If I don't take any trips it takes me over a month to burn through a 10 gallon tank... and that's with city mileage. I figure synthetic is a bit more resistant to breakdown due to contaminants.
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You are probably right... but Im still with Harry. Semi Syn oil every 3-5k miles, is better than 10k miles on Syn. Frequency does matter and too many people buy Syn and then leave it in there way too long. While the oil doesnt break down it does get dirty. Im surprised that VW will switch from Semi Syn to Syn and then extend the intervals from 5k to 10k miles... I am one person who would rather that they stuck to the Semi Syn oil with the 5k interval. I will be paying for every other oil change, because I refuse to go to a 10k interval. Maybe im just old school that way.
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. Last edited by brads911sc; 06-23-2010 at 08:50 AM.. |
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Totally concur,....
![]() The main reason for oil changes is to flush the byproducts of combustion from the engine and leaving the oil in the engine for 10K, 15K, or 20K runs counterintuitive to that principle, regardless of what type of oil is in use. OEM's are trying to sell low costs of operation as a major marketing tool and thats one main reason they often recommend those long drain intervals. Porsche, as well as VAG has been forced to revise some of their (absurd) extended drain intervals for several reasons including wear and sludging in some engines. From my perspective, changing the oil more frequently (using a good product) pays big dividends over the long term and for people who keep their cars for a long time, its something to think very carefully about. Remember, the OEM's do NOT have your best financial interests at heart: their job is to sell cars and parts as thats the only way they make money and stay in business.
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Steve Weiner Rennsport Systems Portland Oregon (503) 244-0990 porsche@rennsportsystems.com www.rennsportsystems.com |
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