930 Newbie - a few questions

[Verde]

I'm a long time admirer of the 930 and finally an owner. Had mine delivered on Friday. White/black (the only color of car I buy) with relatively low miles. I must admit, the car exceeds my expectations. The build and component quality is far beyond the current cars.
For context, I have a 2005 997.1 Cab which I've modified (I have low- to medium-wrenching skills) that I bought when it was two years old, and a Ford GT also purchased when she was two years old (with only 200 miles on it).
So, the questions:
1. I thought I'd do an oil change. The oil is likely fresh, but I'd feel better starting the clock myself, and it forces me to explore some basic parts of the car. I've explored the site, and the manual (of course) and it's unclear what weight of synthetic would be best. I'm a hard core Mobil1 user, and it seems that 15W-50 is the preferred weight. I live in the CA Bay Area. Can someone confirm that I should go with that spec? Also, re oil filter, I typically use K&N. Any comments?
2. The standard steering wheel on the car is not to my liking (and has a small crack on it) so I purchased a 930S wheel (thicker is better). It's not clear how to get the old wheel off. I've read that pulling (and in other pubs, twisting) the center square section is the way to go. I don't want to overdue it but so far, no luck.
Thanks in advance,
V
P.S. Oh, and here is the perfunctory intro photos:
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[totle]

Welcome, and congrats with a perfect car.
We want more pics :-)

[Verde]

Rough is good
I tried but it didn't give. Guess I have to be rougher. The covering black 'vinyl' really wrinkled up from it bending from the sides. I thought it would break. I'd rather not destroy the wheel/horn cover, just set it aside and preserve it should I ever do the unthinkable and sell it.
I'm a long-term car owner. Once in love, it's a long romance. I had a Saab 900 for 13 years; still have a 20 year old Saab 9000S (my son virtually came home from the hospital in it and now drives it); a 10 year old Lexus/Toyota Land Cruiser. Yes, I know. Three cars that are hardly worthy of love.
So, from what I can tell so far my 2005 997 (that I've owned for 3+ years), and this one (that I've owed for 3+ days) they will be gifted to my son and daughter upon my demise. The Ford GT will go to my other son I suppose.
But thanks. I'll give it another go.

Originally Posted by Shadetree930

Just pull on the center section (the horn pad). It takes some manhandling and be prepared for her to smack you in the face when she does give way.

These cars like it rough (so do my women).

[Verde]

New pics soon. The weather here in the Bay Area precludes bringing out the best in the new gal. But later this week when it clears I'll take a bunch more. For now, I just keep peeking in to the garage with a very big grin on my face.
Any comments on oil/filters and things? Like my 997, I'm about to replace the stock battery with a lightweight one. I put an Odyssey in that one and I've got a spare Braille CF in the garage. Need to construct a new base for it. All fun stuff.

[fletcher0780]

mobil 1 v-twin 20w50 is a good choice if you want to stick with mobil 1, I use mahle filters and cam 2 blueblood 20w50.

[Flieger]

I would use Mahle filters and Brad Penn 20W50.

[mooney265]

15w-50 EP from Mobil 1 with Mahle filter

Drain the engine [about 3-qts there] and oil tank [about 7-qts there]. this amounts to about 10 qts - so, be sure you've got at least a 12-qt container. the oil really flies out of the oil tank so be prepared when pulling that drain plug.
replace the oil filter. note the "scum" connected to each of the drain plugs [there's a magnet in the middle of each plug]. Clean the drain plugs innerds with a cue-tips.
add 10-qts. remove the two fuel pump relays [at front fuse panel]. crank engine a couple times for a couple seconds each time to prime oil. replace relays and restart.
get engine fully warm and make sure oil is flowing to front cooler [you can grab the oil lines under FR wheel well to check for hot oil flow to the front].
once fully warm, check oil level with engine running and on level surface. use dipstick. some have noted to keep engine oil at about mid-level between "add" and "full" on dipstick. that's what I do.
* you may need to concoct [sp] a funnel with long flexible neck to get the oil in the tank. I tightly slipped a 18-in. heater hose over the end of a regular funnel.
** also, take note to "mentally calibrate" the oil level gauge to the dipstick. Eg. If the dipstick is saying "add" and the oil level gauge is hovering near the bottom, then they're "in sync."

BTW: I just changed my oil yesterday.

BTW2: Nice car/color...

[mark houghton]

I use 20/50 Valvoline VR1 racing oil, if you want to got with rotted dinosaur carcasses. Synthetics, I have no experience with. Mahle filter. And yes, that center section of the steering wheel just pulls straight back, but hard.

Nice color choice, by the way.

[RarlyL8]

Gorgeous 930, welcome!

[krasuskyp]

fabulous car, welcome

love them white / polished Fuchs

I use Brad Penn FWLIW

awesome collection of cars you got there - enjoy

[voitureltd]

According to the Porsche club the advise ( recent tech session with a oil expert ) is "use an oil with a high ash content". As ash content is not Govt. encouraged as an additive ( or is refined out, I do not rememder which ) in most oils, an off road oil is recommended for best outcome in these cars. Valvoline VR1 racing oil has a very high ash content and comes in recommended weights like 10 w 40 20w 50 or straight 50 or 60 weight for really tough useage on hot days. I think Brad Pen was recommended also however Valvoline racing oil is still around $4 a quart. Also a sure way to cure some seepage and minor leaks is to dump the synthetic oil for a quality high ash content oil. These early air cooled Porsches were bred on other than the synthetic stuff.

[bcoats]

+1 on 20W-50 BP and Mahle filter, last 2 oil changes I did I added exactly 10.5qts and measured 1/2 on dip stick if that helps, good luck and beautiful car

[David]

I use Brad Penn oil to have as much ZDDP as possible for the rockers and such. If you do use Mobil 1 or another big brand, be sure to use 15W-50 or heavier or straight weight so it doesn't have reduced ZDDP (zinc) per the EPA.

[Noah930]

For more reading on motor oils, try searching "The Ultimate Oil Thread" over on the 911 Technical forum. More information than you'll know what to do with. ZDDP seems to be what's lacking from most modern motor oils. As a synopsis, regular Mobil 1 is not so highly recommended, though the 20w-50 V-twin stuff (at about $10/quart) seems to be OK. Brad Penn is a cheaper alternative. There are a couple others. I still have some old-formulation Rotella I'm using, but will probably switch to Brad Penn next time. The Valvoline racing oil is also OK, but supposedly doesn't have the longer-lasting detergents to neutralize the acid by-products of combustion and so should be changed more frequently.

Mahle oil filters. OC-54, I think. $9 from our host.

When changing the oil, first empty the crankcase. About 3 quarts will come out. Then drain the oil tank. A lot more will come out. If there's milky-mayonaissey stuff on the drain plug, it's condensation from not allowing the engine to reach full operating temperature--too many short trips. 15 mm socket. 42 ft-lb of torque.

[Miguel Antonett]

Welcome!!!

Clean looking car... Drive it.

[Louie85]

I use 15W-50W EP Mobil 1 with Mahle filter + 2 STP for added ZDDP. Its at 264K and still ticking.

Sweet looking car. Welcome.