Oil Filter Relocation/Addition Question

[WERK I]

Having experienced a clogged oil spray bar blockage in the past, I am getting increasingly nervous about the filtration system in these engines. While some have added an additional oil filter off the turbo sump pump to the tank, I would think that filtering would be best if done both on the oil return and oil intake to the engines like the 964 turbo and 993 engines.
DonE and Rob 930, for example, have done the modification at the engine oil cooler area, has anyone done a different approach such as using an oil filter relocation kit approach? This approach simply adds an additional filter in line with suction side of the oil line going to the engine. An illustration of such a kit is illustrated below. Don and Rob, thanks for sharing photos of your projects.

DonE's oil console:



Rob 930's oil console mod:



Illustration of oil filter relocation kit:

[JFairman]

Those lines and fittings look like the average ID of water cooled engines.

Air/oil cooled 911's flow alot more oil and the lines and fittings are alot bigger.

Oil lines on 911'a are 7/8" ID or AN16.

[WERK I]

Originally Posted by JFairman

Those lines and fittings look like the average ID of water cooled engines.

Air/oil cooled 911's flow alot more oil and the lines and fittings are alot bigger.

Oil lines on 911'a are 7/8" ID or AN16.

Thanks for your input. Yeah, those lines are PRETTY SMALL, but I was just using the pic as an example. I have seen some 911 race cars with a remote filter console (big lines) up front by the oil tank, but I was wondering if anyone has used these on a street car.
I was thinking that this may be a lower cost solution than going with the 993 and 964 Turbo oil filter console conversion.

[JFairman]

I've been through the expensive clogged cam spray bar drama too...

If your concerned about more coked oil particals from the turbo clogging them again I'd suggest putting a cleanable oil filter in the turbo scavange line after the pump and before the oil tank.

I've done it 2 different ways now.
First version used a small inline oil filter from system one. I installed it in the origonal rubber line. It worked well but needs to be cleaned often due to the small pleated 70 micron element inside.


Then someone gave me this much larger spin on system one oil filter that has much more capacity and filters down to 35 microns. It has the same threads as the spin on filter tthat goes on the oil tank. They don't make this clear anodized version anymore, instead they are now black anodized and similar.
It was difficult to find a spin on remote mount online with threads that big but they had one at the local Napa that fit perfectly.

Rather than drill holes in the car to mount it I glued a rubber strip to the ID of the metal band on the origonal charcoal canister mount in the right rear fender well and mounted it there. It has been there with no problems since last summer.

I used around 7 feet of 7/16" hose to plumb it in using the origonal fittings and hose clamps.

Your K27 7006 is a low backpressure turbo and from my experience doesn't coke Brad Penn 20-50 oil during average street use and idling the motor after a hot run.

and.. from my experience some hybrid K27 turbos using the smaller 7200 hot side to get quick spool with a large Holset compressor wheel are high backpressure turbos which run alot hotter because of that and will coke Brad Penn 20-50 oil quickly with normal use even if you idle the car after a hot run.
Because of that it is recommended you use high flashpoint synthetic oil with one of those hybrid turbos.

[WERK I]

Originally Posted by JFairman

I've been through the expensive clogged cam spray bar drama too...
................................................sn ipped................................
If your concerned about more coked oil particals from the turbo clogging them again I'd suggest putting a cleanable oil filter in the turbo scavange line after the pump and before the oil tank.

Thanks for all your invaluable input, JF. I guess I've still haven't gotten over it (happened 2 years ago). It still riles me a little bit .
I'll probably go the route of adding the inline filter you illustrated and add the 964T oil filter console. I just do not want to have to go through that experience again.

[s5uewf]

I hope you can forgive my lack of knowledge related to these fittings. If I were to cut into the rubber section of the scavenger return, in the section that threads into the oil tank, what size fittings would I need? It looks like installing permanently clamped threaded fittings would be best, then threading in a new loop which contained a filter, or just thread in an inline filter.

If the line is 7/16 inch, does that mean I should get AN7 fittings to insert into the cut scavenger return line?

In your remote cannister design or in your inline design, what size fittings did you use to insert into the original scavenger line when you cut into it?

[JFairman]

I cut off the steel crimp that held the rubber line on each end with a cut off wheel on a die grinder.
A cut off wheel on a dremel tool would work just as well too, just take a little longer.

Dont cut so deep through the rubber hose under the crimp that you cut into the single smooth barb on the steel line from the scavenge pump and fitting that screws into the oil tank.
The last little bit of the crimp is impossible to reach with the cutoff wheel so you take needle nose pliers or vise grips and peel the rest till the last little bit breaks and the crimp bends and peels off the hose.

Then I put the new 7/16" hose on the origonal fittings with a hose clamp.
There is no oil pressure there because there is no resistance to flow other than the filter your installing and thats not much. It's just a slow flow of hot oil going back into the oil tank.

I used 7/16 non fuel injection fuel line because it's inexpensive and works perfectly fine for this application.

[s5uewf]

Oh, that sounds like something I can do. Thanks for that explanation. This seems like excellent insurance to me against particle damage.

Thanks!