The Complete Engine Sealant Thread...

[WERK I]

Dragon, which has four Allen bolts are you referring?

[KTL]

The throttle body screws are common M6x1.0 pan head screws that are threaded into aluminum. Snug is all you need. But if you want to be technical about it, an 8.8 class fastener that is zinc plated will normally want around 7 lb-ft of torque

http://www.metricmcc.com/catalog/Ch10/10-1027.pdf

[Mark Henry]

Originally Posted by boosted79

"BTW, how does one keep the 1184 from squeezing into the case? I did a couple of test runs and boy the 1184 really squeezes out allot.

I am not wrried about the 574 but do worry about silicon getting inside the case. "

You just need a very thin coat but you want some squeeze out. The 1184 is not silicone RTV and it is semi-hardening and remains elastic so it doesn't break off like the silicone RTV does. It's the same stuff used to seal motorcycle cases, also sold as Hondabond 4, Yamabond, Suzukibond 4, etc. it's good stuff.

Hate to break it to you but 1184 is an RTV and to much squeeze out can break off. But it is superior to regular RTV and a small amount of squeeze out is very unlikely to break off.
Just be careful of how much you use and don't use in critical areas like the bearing saddles.

[iiXii]

hi

Do you put something on the o-ring of the chain tensioner ? (between chain tensionner and Cam Chain Housings)

[DRACO A5OG]

Yes, Dow 55 or Motor Oil. dry may pinch the o-ring.

[iiXii]

ok thank you Draco

[Henry Schmidt]

Originally Posted by Mark Henry

Hate to break it to you but 1184 is an RTV and to much squeeze out can break off. But it is superior to regular RTV and a small amount of squeeze out is very unlikely to break off.
Just be careful of how much you use and don't use in critical areas like the bearing saddles.

ThreeBond classifies 1184 as a synthetic rubber and 1211 as a Silicon (RTV).
I'm not clear exactly what the difference is but I am certain that 1184 is far more resistant to "bead break-away" than the RTV products I've used.
Moderation in the application (avoid excessive quantity) should be the guiding principle.

[John McM]

Originally Posted by Henry Schmidt

Moderation in the application (avoid excessive quantity) should be the guiding principle.

Reposted from a Rennlist thread

[John McM]

O rings as well

[rep]

Mr. Schmidt,

In your opinion, would Curil-T be acceptable for intermediate shaft cover, timing chain cover and crankcase breather?

thanks

[Henry Schmidt]

Originally Posted by rep

Mr. Schmidt,

In your opinion, would Curil-T be acceptable for intermediate shaft cover, timing chain cover and crankcase breather?

thanks

Sure, used sparingly.
The non-drying nature of Curil T makes it easy for the gasket to squeeze out if you aren't careful. Over tightening is often the culprit.

The thing about sealing these early air-cooled engines is that most ideas/techniques "can/may" work. We offer a technique that works for us. That does not mean it's the only method that works. More isn't always better, tighter is often a problem and cleanliness is paramount.

[safe]

Originally Posted by Henry Schmidt

Sure, used sparingly.
The non-drying nature of Curil T makes it easy for the gasket to squeeze out if you aren't careful. Over tightening is often the culprit.

The thing about sealing these early air-cooled engines is that most ideas/techniques "can/may" work. We offer a technique that works for us. That does not mean it's the only method that works. More isn't always better, tighter is often a problem and cleanliness is paramount.

Is it common practice to use a sealer on the gaskets?
I've always (not that many engines) installed them dry with good results. Maybe I've just been lucky with the sealing surfaces.

If something is used, should it be non-hardening or hardening?

[Henry Schmidt]

Back in the early 90's Porsche was experiencing a 4% leakage rate (off the dyno) on new engines using all new parts.
We are using well testing (heat cycled) parts with the hopes that we can do the job just once.
In a perfect world, a dry gasket should work. We got tired of being clobbered by an imperfect world.

[John McM]

Pulling my engine apart to find the cause of a leak around the nose bearing. I found this today on the cam plate. Does 574 dry into blobs like this? Maybe there is more of this around the nose bearing blocking the pressure channel

[John McM]

Camshaft is fine however there is some pitting on the tappets. I hope this doesn't require new tappets.

[rep]

Originally Posted by Henry Schmidt

Sure, used sparingly.
The non-drying nature of Curil T makes it easy for the gasket to squeeze out if you aren't careful. Over tightening is often the culprit.

The thing about sealing these early air-cooled engines is that most ideas/techniques "can/may" work. We offer a technique that works for us. That does not mean it's the only method that works. More isn't always better, tighter is often a problem and cleanliness is paramount.

Thanks, if you could indulge me once more. Would you recommend Curil T on the intake runners to head gasket? Are these very likely to leak? I'd like to avoid any mess by installing dry but looks painful to remedy if one leaked.

Thanks again.

[Turbo_pro]

Come on guys:
Let's try to stick to the topic. This thread is a great resource for engine sealing.
Let's not fill it with off topic questions.

[John McM]

The P Fix It Engine Rebuild DVD states Loctite 574 gives a 45 minute window to finish sealing the case. What it s the window with Threebond 1104, 1211 etc?

[mikedsilva]

Originally Posted by John McM

The P Fix It Engine Rebuild DVD states Loctite 574 gives a 45 minute window to finish sealing the case. What it s the window with Threebond 1104, 1211 etc?

I found the 1104 started to "tack off" before I had finished spreading around the perimeter of the case. You need to work fast; aim to have it together within 5-10mins max.

[Mark Henry]

Originally Posted by mikedsilva

I found the 1104 started to "tack off" before I had finished spreading around the perimeter of the case. You need to work fast; aim to have it together within 5-10mins max.

You might have a hair longer, but applying the 1104 becomes unworkable very quickly.

You must have all your ducks in a row before you start this task. All nuts, washers, seals, etc., clean and lined up, all your tools ready, torque wrench preset, etc. Think of it like a surgical procedure.
I have a lot of detailed pic's of my build, but not of putting the case halves together, as there's no time to stop for a photo op.

I suggest you make your own P221 rod and chain holder set like I did in the pic below, saves a lot of hassle.