Ultimate Motor Oil Thread or Why we hate CJ4/SM oils

[cnavarro]

Don't read too much into it. It's still important to change the oil every 3,000-5,000 mi or 6 months (to at most a year). Tribology with regards to lubricants is a difficult topic.

[crater64]

Originally Posted by cnavarro

The torque converter builds extra heat into the oil, so in my Sporto, I ran a 20w50 and even tried the BMW 10w60 synthetic oil. I don't see any reason why a motorcycle oil couldn't be used either. A choice of a synthetic should be based more so on the mileage and amount of leaks. :-)

Thanks, I'm grateful for your response. For those reasons I'm staying away from synthetics in my car and so will give the Brad Penn motorcycle 20W50 a try.

Ed

[767driver]

Charles,

So how about running Rotella with an additive? Which additive and how much of it in relation to the Rotella would you recommend? I would like to stay with dino-oil for cost and potential leak issues. I realize it looks like Brad Penn is the best solution, however, I am interested in finding a more readily available and cost-effective option.

[ncseahawk]

What could be more convenient than going to the LN website, logging in, buying the BP oil, and having it shipped directly to your door?

Besides, Charles has been very helpful to all of us on this site. Show him a little of your business.

Just a thought.

[cnavarro]

The Brad Penn m/c oils are fully synthetic, I'd just stick to the normal Racing 20w50 if you want to go with Brad Penn.

[cnavarro]

Originally Posted by 767driver

Charles,

So how about running Rotella with an additive? Which additive and how much of it in relation to the Rotella would you recommend? I would like to stay with dino-oil for cost and potential leak issues. I realize it looks like Brad Penn is the best solution, however, I am interested in finding a more readily available and cost-effective option.

You could always try a motorcycle 20w50 non-synthetic rather than Rotella T and adding additives. I still prefer a fully-formulated oil to adding additives. In the beginning, before we had done all our testing, the additives were just a stop gap & safety measure until we figured out what needed to be done.

[cnavarro]

Originally Posted by ncseahawk

What could be more convenient than going to the LN website, logging in, buying the BP oil, and having it shipped directly to your door?

Besides, Charles has been very helpful to all of us on this site. Show him a little of your business.

Just a thought.

You can also call up the American Refining Group and they will point you to the nearest distributor so you can save on shipping.

[crater64]

Originally Posted by ncseahawk

What could be more convenient than going to the LN website, logging in, buying the BP oil, and having it shipped directly to your door?

Besides, Charles has been very helpful to all of us on this site. Show him a little of your business.

Just a thought.

I'd be glad to; however, Charles, I don't see the BP non-syn motorcycle 20W50 on your site. Can you get it for me?

(Edit: Oops, I think you may already have.)

Thanks,
Ed

[767driver]

Thank you, Charles.

[767driver]

And then there is this:

Key Benefits *


Contains increased zinc levels for extra engine wear prevention.
Utilizes proprietary additives and base oils to reduce metal–on–metal contact of aging engine parts.
Engineered to increase wear protection for classic cars with flat tappet camshafts.

* SYNTEC 20W–50 does not meet the catalyst compatibility requirements of vehicles manufactured since 1993.

From Castrol's website:

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&contentId=7032644

[twobone]

My wrench put in Castrol GTX 20/50 in my 98,000 mile 3.2

Should I have pressed for another oil?

[Flieger]

Yes, I bring my mechanic a box of the green oil.

[767driver]

I just had a POST-purchase inspection (yeah, keep the jokes to yourselves!) done in order to see if (ok... what) my newly acquired 1988 911 needed. I felt the car was a good one when I made the purchase and I didn't get any bad news. I did get the car up to date on some routine maintenance and had the oil changed in addition to some other work. I took some Brad Penn grade 1 racing 20-50 to the shop. Driving home I noticed my oil temp is about 2 needle-widths warmer then before. Pressure seemed about the same.

Is this normal?

[Por_sha911]

Originally Posted by twobone

My wrench put in Castrol GTX 20/50 in my 98,000 mile 3.2 Should I have pressed for another oil?

No as long as you 1) change it in about 3000 miles and, 2) don't drive in 90+ degree heat at redline.

[afterburn 549]

Sure would be nice if someone who is/was keeping track of all this info would insert a a book report here once in awhile..as some of us do not have time to digest all of it all at once...
Would someone please bring the rest of us up to speed as to what is the " better products ?"
Thanx

[David E. Clark]

Originally Posted by afterburn 549

Sure would be nice if someone who is/was keeping track of all this info would insert a a book report here once in awhile..as some of us do not have time to digest all of it all at once...
Would someone please bring the rest of us up to speed as to what is the " better products ?"
Thanx

Take a look at post # 1!

[nize]

it's all in the first post in this thread!

[333pg333]

Charles, I realise this is largely aimed at the rear engined guys, but seeing as the front engined cars also share some design aspects do you basically advise the exact same oils for them?

What would you suggest for a high hp turbo charged 944 for the track?
I doubt you've heard of, let alone tested this oil, but I've been currently using it for the track. Available to us 'Down Under'.
http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productName=25W-60_Street_and_Track_Engine_Oil

regards

Patrick

[cnavarro]

Same things apply pretty much to anything pre-Boxster and 996, and to some extent, to those cars too. Although m1 0w40 is SM rated, up until '04, some models stated the use of an API SH or SJ rated oil, which would have had greater levels of Zn and P.

A choice of anything xW60 rated probably boils down to ambient air temps as well as observed oil temperatures. I was trying to find the chart that shows a given viscosity at a specific temperature for each viscosity (i.e. two different weights will have the same viscosity at different temperatures), but all I could find was this:

http://www.synlube.com/viscosit.htm#viscosity-temperature relationship

You'll have to scroll down some, but it shows if ambient is min. 80F (max 110F) and coolant temp is 212F, then a sae 60 wt is prescribed (at least according to their chart). Usually I find oil temps in a water-cooled engine to be 10-20F higher than coolant temp, so that should give some indication to what oil temperature a thicker oil might be needed like this 25w60.

With respect to the brand or product in question, I have no experience or knowledge of the brand. From a quick read of their product info, it's probably heavily friction modified (moly).

[nize]

does anyone know how brad penn compares to royal purple or redline? or has this already been dissected?